Headlinings

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BrendanChandler

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www.brendanchandleryachtdelivery.co.uk
Headlinings REMOVAL OF OLD GLUE

I have started getting the old glue off and after 2 man days, I have probably cleared about 15% of the forward cabin on a 38ft boat.
It is without doubt the worst job I have ever done.
The glue seems to be of different consistancy in different places.
In some it is a green thin layer that is difficult to remove as the fobreglass surface is not flat.
In other places the glue seems to be tacky and scraping it just seems to spread it about. I found a small quantity of Meths just as I was packing up for the day and applied that. It seems to remove some of the tackiness (I wish it removed the glue).
It seems that that may help so I go back to it again tomorrow.
I am tempted to use meths in a fine spray???????
I would welcome any other thoughts

Brendan
 
Last edited:
VicS said:
Hawke House Ltd can supply kits for many Westerly models. Maybe others as well.
Click to expand...

+1

Hawke House are good and can supply the adhesives as well.

A word of caution, adhesives give off unhealthy fumes and despite wearing the correct mask I had some nasty medical problems after relining our Centaur, all down to the adhesive. When the Berwick needed doing, I paid someone else!
 
GrahamM376 said:
+1

Hawke House are good and can supply the adhesives as well.

A word of caution, adhesives give off unhealthy fumes and despite wearing the correct mask I had some nasty medical problems after relining our Centaur, all down to the adhesive. When the Berwick needed doing, I paid someone else!
Click to expand...

I found the correct mask totally effective but there is a limit to the concentration of solvent vapour that they can handle. Good ventilation is still essential to keep he concentration down below that level.

I agree its an unpleasant job Perhaps the worst part is cleaning off the old adhesive.
 
VicS said:
Hawke House Ltd can supply kits for many Westerly models. Maybe others as well.
Click to expand...

Tks for that.
My boat is. 25 year old Beneteau Idylle. Not many were made so not much chance of finding a kit.
I am a little unhappy at not writing down the name of the company who offer to make them from the template of the old ones.
I spent an hour this morning trying to retrace my steps without luck.

I will take great care with the fumes.

Apart from fumes, any other advice?

Brendan
 
Advice

We did the headlining on a Westerly Fulmar several years ago. The worst job of all is getting the old adhesive off. Be prepared to try several different methods. We used a stiff wire round brush spun in a drill at high speed. This melted the glue and spun it away into a messy pile. Solvents do NOT work. Some foamed vynyl cloth suppliers recommend a PVA type glue. this was not successful although it did not smell. Apart from the toxicty of the solvent type glues do not forget the fire hazard. Good ventilation is essential. I watched a friends boat burn completely out after a pilot light ignited the fumes. Do not underestimate the time, mess and frustration of doing a whole boat.

Roy

BrendanChandler said:
Tks for that.
I will take great care with the fumes.

Apart from fumes, any other advice?

Brendan
Click to expand...
 
BrendanChandler said:
I will take great care with the fumes.
Apart from fumes, any other advice?
Brendan
Click to expand...

Get as much of the old adhesive off as you can or the new stuff won't bond properly. Needs doing when warm to avoid condensation on hull when applying adhesive - 2 part usually a "spread" (Evostik consistency) adhesive on the GRP and a spray-on on the linings.
 
GrahamM376 said:
Get as much of the old adhesive off as you can or the new stuff won't bond properly. Needs doing when warm to avoid condensation on hull when applying adhesive - 2 part usually a "spread" (Evostik consistency) adhesive on the GRP and a spray-on on the linings.
Click to expand...

I found getting the old adhesive off a very difficult and mucky job.

Hawke House supply a "face-off disc". It looks the same as the thing I bought but I found anything power driven produced sufficient heat to soften the glue and spread it out rather than removing it.

I used a liquid contact adhesive applied to the GPR and a spray on adhesive on the back of the lining material. Both as recommended and supplied by Hawke House.

The lining material can be stuck on to ply panels with a water proof PVA wood glue ( again supplied by HH) That is easy and pleasant to use being water, not solvent, based.

HH also supplied a useful hints and tips leaflet with all the materials.
 
Getting the old glue off

VicS said:
I found getting the old adhesive off a very difficult and mucky job.

QUOTE]

I have started getting the old glue off and after 2 man days, I have probably cleared about 15% of the forward cabin on a 38ft boat.
It is without doubt the worst job I have ever done.
The glue seems to be of different consistancy in different places.
In some it is a green thin layer that is difficult to remove as the fobreglass surface is not flat.
In other places the glue seems to be tacky and scraping it just seems to spread it about. I found a small quantity of Meths just as I was packing up for the day and applied that. It seems to remove some of the tackiness (I wish it removed the glue).
It seems that that may help so I go back to it again tomorrow.
I am tempted to use meths in a fine spray???????
I would welcome any other thoughts

Brendan
Click to expand...
 
I have yet to find anything that effectively removes 20 year old contact adhesive more effectively than mechanical methods. We resorted to stainless steel 'wire wool' pot scourers and leather gloves to protect hands. It took nearly 10 days of bloody hard graft to strip back the forepeak, saloon and 2 aft cabins of an 11.5m yacht. Wore out 2 pairs of gloves - leather completely worn away!
Nasty, dirty hard work.

Replacement head liners are now ply panels covered with either vinyl or formica.
 
Last edited:
BrendanChandler said:
So after 10 days of graft, what tools did you consider best?
Sorry, I think you just answered that, Wire wool pot scourers and leather gloves.

Thank you.

Brendan
Click to expand...

I would have thought that there were easier ways of doing it.Possibly liquid nitrogen that freeze dries it & then makes it easier to remove with a wire brush?
Anyway I hope so because that is a job that I have got to tackle :(
 
It is certainly worth considering ply panels covered with vynl rather than gluing the foam backed stuff to the hull. You may lose an inch or so of headroom but the overall impact will be better and you will reduce the chances of gassing your self with contaCT ADHESIVE
 
I've had some success patching droopy headlining using builders gap-filling glue. I've so far evaded doing the job properly, but fixed annoying bits this way. The glue holds the headlining in place without support after a surprisingly short time - a few minutes for small areas. I scraped old glue and loose foam away but did not remove anything that seemed secure, so most of the original glue has stayed in place.

Derek
 
maxi77 said:
It is certainly worth considering ply panels covered with vynl rather than gluing the foam backed stuff to the hull. You may lose an inch or so of headroom but the overall impact will be better and you will reduce the chances of gassing your self with contaCT ADHESIVE
Click to expand...

I don't think you need to lose any more than 10mm.
If the deck is cored you can screw ply to it, if not, epoxy thin battens to it with threaded inserts of some sort, to take mushroom allen screws.
 
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