Headlining replacement finally arrives

Refueler

Refueler

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Today courier delivered my roll of van lining and cans of Trimfix spray.

The question now is when to do the work ....

Winter is too cold here

Summer is nearly over and I would like to enjoy the last part ...

So what to do !

It is a job I am dreading ... as I will need to remove windows / fittings to make sure I get it applied fully. All that dust and crap from behind the foam back vinyl to clear !

UGH !
 
I'm not quite sure what material you are using but I used a headliner sold by Whitworths.
Hull Liner Tan, $39.95 | Whitworths Marine

I used contact adhesive as it is much stronger than the spray and holds the "carpet" in place overhead. I wouldn't have any hesitation of using it in cold weather. If you don't leave it too long you can remove it and have a second go, If you butt two pieces up together carefully you really don't notice the join. There is a join just below the deck beams (see photo).

Screenshot 2021-08-16 at 20-13-58 Port side looking aft.png

Some people say it is a two man job but I used appropriate length "T" props to hold the liner in place as I proceeded. You will need scissors and a Stanley Trimmer knife.

I'd say you will need a vacuum cleaner and dust masks when doing yours. (I get my vacuum cleaners from the recycle depot for a pittance)

Good luck
 
TC Tuckton said:
How are the windows attached?
Click to expand...

Flush head screws from inside alloy frame to outer alloy frame .... the outer is a U channel with outer flange running round ...

Basically the window sits in the U channel ...

I removed one of the 6 many years ago and it was a right ****** to get it to come out ...
 

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When I replaced my headlining in a Westerly Tiger I used the old head lining in pieces which I used as nearly correct patterns; and these used to cut matching ply panels which I dry fitted to the areas of replacement when satisfied that the panel was correct I then used carpet adhesive to stick the vinyl cloth(not foam backed) to the panel. I did not glue the vinyl edge until checked for fit.
I allowed 1/16th" for the thickness of the cloth between the panels on each of the panel edges. I had intended to glue to the deckhead but I glued very thin 1 1/2" battens as needed first then screwed to these. The heads of the screws were fitted with plastic bases with little caps on them to hide the screw heads.
The job took 10 days including the stripping of the old foam-backed lining, this took about 4 days scraping off.
I did not unscrew the window frames but cut tightly around them ,with help to hold as I did it.

The vinyl cloth I bought from The Range at Gosport; an off-white or cream was available at £7 per sq.mtr and it was 1.5 metres wide. I was able to glue the panels at home, and had to adjust a couple where the curve changed in the 'roof'
.The ply sheet panels were ordinary 3mm ; MDF could have been used if the right size found.
I've since sold the boat and was complimented on it, but the forward cabin was another matter, and not easy at all.
The hardest part was the stripping after the removal of the lining.

Good luck with yours.

ianat182
 
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Graham376 said:
Contact adhesive - water or solvent based?
Click to expand...
I prefer solvent based rather than water based but soon we won't have a choice as I believe solvent based contact adhesive is being phased out for environmental reasons,

Solvent-based adhesives use solvents as a carrier for the resin, whereas water-based adhesives use water as a carrier for the resin. Either type of adhesive can be beneficial, depending on the application. ... Water-based adhesives are usually non-hazardous and environmentally-friendly, containing no VOCs
 
ianat182 said:
When I replaced my headlining in a Westerly Tiger I used the old head lining in pieces which I used as nearly correct patterns; and these used to cut matching ply panels which I dry fitted to the areas of replacement when satisfied that the panel was correct I then used carpet adhesive to stick the vinyl cloth(not foam backed) to the panel. I did not glue the vinyl edge until checked for fit.
I allowed 1/16th" for the thickness of the cloth between the panels on each of the panel edges. I had intended to glue to the deckhead but I glued very thin 1 1/2" battens as needed first then screwed to these. The heads of the screws were fitted with plastic bases with little caps on them to hide the screw heads.
The job took 10 days including the stripping of the old foam-backed lining, this took about 4 days scraping off.
I did not unscrew the window frames but cut tightly around them ,with help to hold as I did it.

The vinyl cloth I bought from The Range at Gosport; an off-white or cream was available at £7 per sq.mtr and it was 1.5 metres wide. I was able to glue the panels at home, and had to adjust a couple where the curve changed in the 'roof'
.The ply sheet panels were ordinary 3mm ; MDF could have been used if the right size found.
I've since sold the boat and was complimented on it, but the forward cabin was another matter, and not easy at all.
The hardest part was the stripping after the removal of the lining.

Good luck with yours.

ianat182
Click to expand...

I did consider using wood faced wall 'strips' similar to floor laminate. Its available in thin 'bendable lengths. But then it was the fixing in place ..
I have 5'10" main cabin and 5'7" fwd ... so any lining that needed battens or extra to fix would reduce that ...

Having seen some really nice boats with the Van Lining .... and watching vids that it stretches / moulds well to corners etc. - I thought - that's better for me.

Really interested reading others solutions ... and especially if any photos ...

I just hope I can do a good job ..
 
Refueler said:
I did consider using wood faced wall 'strips' similar to floor laminate. Its available in thin 'bendable lengths. But then it was the fixing in place ..
I have 5'10" main cabin and 5'7" fwd ... so any lining that needed battens or extra to fix would reduce that ...

Having seen some really nice boats with the Van Lining .... and watching vids that it stretches / moulds well to corners etc. - I thought - that's better for me.

Really interested reading others solutions ... and especially if any photos ...

I just hope I can do a good job ..
Click to expand...

My first thought is that if you use "wood faced wall strips" is that they will only be suitable for a simple curve but not a compound curve. I put laminex (formica) on the ceiling/wall of my yacht galley but I only had to curve it one way

Can you give us a link to the product you are using?
 
Refueler said:
CAMPER VAN CAR CARPET LINING 4 way stretch VW T 6 5 TRIM TRANSIT RACE DAY 20sqm | eBay

Beige colour.

I was expecting it to be a finer 'weave' but its nice to the touch ... so I expect it to be an improvement on the 1970's foam backed vinyl it replaces. My cabin has vinyl overhead and previous owners applied carpet tile to cabin sides below shelves ... made it much better when in bed ...
Click to expand...

I am logged in to several boating forums and the feedback I get on foam backed vinyl is bad as the foam disintegrates over time.

As far as I can make ot what you are planning to use is what I have used and if so I would recommend it
automotive stretch carpet

UPDATE. I have had another look at what you are using and it is double the price of the headliner carpet I am using.
 
coopec said:
I am logged in to several boating forums and the feedback I get on foam backed vinyl is bad as the foam disintegrates over time.

As far as I can make ot what you are planning to use is what I have used and if so I would recommend it
automotive stretch carpet

UPDATE. I have had another look at what you are using and it is double the price of the headliner carpet I am using.
Click to expand...

Problem for me - I am not in UK and this sort of item is difficult to source here. Too often we have to rely on eBay .... I even approached 'car repair / renovators' here and they shook heads ... they buy in as well ...

Foam backed vinyl is good for anything up to 20yrs ... but eventually the foam backing turns to powder and lining sags. There are temp ways to put it back up - but its a fight for nothing. Once it starts to sag - then its basically game over ...
 
UPDATE. I have had another look at what you are using and it is double the price of the headliner carpet I am using.
Click to expand...

?? I paid 105.02 GBP ... about Au $200 .... which included all customs / courier etc.

20sq.m of liner + 10 cans of adhesive.

That if we ignore the adhesive is about Au$ 10 per Sq.m ......

The link you gave shows NO adhesive .. and Au$ 35 for 2 Sq.m liner ............ so would be Au$ 350 for 20 Sq.m and then extra to get the adhesive ...

In my book - that - if we add in adhesive - will be double the price I paid ?

Just compared your Whitworh pricing ..... even more !!
 
Refueler said:
?? I paid 105.02 GBP ... about Au $200 .... which included all customs / courier etc.

20sq.m of liner + 10 cans of adhesive.

That if we ignore the adhesive is about Au$ 10 per Sq.m ......

The link you gave shows NO adhesive .. and Au$ 35 for 2 Sq.m liner ............ so would be Au$ 350 for 20 Sq.m and then extra to get the adhesive ...

In my book - that - if we add in adhesive - will be double the price I paid ?

Just compared your Whitworh pricing ..... even more !!
Click to expand...

I was just looking at the price ㎡ of the headliner.

For heavens sake what do you need 20 ㎡ for? What size is your yacht?
 
I was just looking at the price ㎡ of the headliner.
Click to expand...

Mine still only works out at 1/2 your price AND I get the adhesive.

For heavens sake what do you need 20 ㎡ for? What size is your yacht?
Click to expand...

I actually have two boats to do

1. 25ft Motor sailer similar area to cover as a Centaur, two cabins - plus the under cockpit 1/4 berths.
4UFFUdP.jpg


2. 5.5m two berth weekender which actually needs more than just head liner and also has under cockpit 1/4 berths

cGmQwes.jpg


.... and if any left over - fine ... I'm sure I can find use for it !!
 
Refueler said:
It is a job I am dreading ... as I will need to remove windows / fittings to make sure I get it applied fully.
Click to expand...
Why do you need to remove the windows? When I replaced some headlining, I removed the windows but later thought it is possible to to reline without removal of the windows. Remove the inside rim and then cover the clear window with 14 day masking tape. Fit your vinyl and then trim round the frame, finally refit the inner rim. This way you do not break the seal of the window.

However, if you want to remove the frame then use a cheese wire to cut the mastic seal between the window frame and the gel coat. This make removal very easy and you should avoid deforming the frame.

If you want to leave the nuts on fittings exposed, I used a leather hole cutter to cut the vinyl. Look at this PowerPoint presentation for more information.
https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/images/1/17/Vinyl_Headling_Concerto_PowerPoint.pdf
 
Just to correct something ....

The window removal was not to say I would completely remove ... being a split frame affair as 'Concerto' says - should only be need to remove inner frame ....
But removal of complete is not a problem itself as I do not intend to extract 'glass' from its U channel ...

I removed one before to see if I could change the 'goop' in the U channel ... to cure a leak ... but in the end Capt Tolleys was the answer.
 
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