Headlining glue removal

I'll add my vote for the cup brush on an angle grinder. Only thing I found that worked.

There's no need to get to perfection if you're not gluing new headlining up (and I wouldn't!), I gave the whole area a light going over to get rid of any loose stuff and concentrated on cleaning back to bare GRP only where I needed to epoxy mounting pads for the new headling (I'd use battens next time, locating the pads to screw the new lining panels up was a pain)

I'm not, by the way, a fan of "No Nails" these days. It ain't what it used to be and I've seen the results of it failing to bond and it wasn't pretty! Not my boat, not my problem but I felt for the poor so and so who basically had to start the whole job again from scratch. (In fairness, our old GRP canal cruiser had the battens supporting a new T&G headlining stuck up with No Nails and it was fine but that was a year or many ago. I suspect they've watered it down since then)
 
coopec said:
There are solvents I wouldn't want to get on my skin or breathe the vapor but acetone is relatively safe. (Our bodies actually produce small amounts of acetone). I would ensure there is plenty of ventilation when using it at the very least.

If in doubt use a respirator.:eek:

I am particularly careful with catalyst used in fiber glassing:
Catalyst (hardener) used for polyester resins is an organic peroxide (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) and is particularly dangerous. ... If these come into contact with the skin, they can destroy the natural oils and may lead to an unpleasant form of dermatitis.
And
Welding pickle
Pickling pastes contain a combination of hydrofluoric acid and nitric acid which can cause serious burn injuries. They are primarily used to post weld clean stainless steels and can be applied by brush or by a spray on process.(I don't think they are used anymore)
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I used acetone in the house for something a few years ago and it made me feel very peculiar quite quickly and I have been very suspicious of it since then.
 
johnalison said:
I used acetone in the house for something a few years ago and it made me feel very peculiar quite quickly and I have been very suspicious of it since then.
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Well you are not supposed to drink it! Geeez. What next?:rolleyes:

(It was probably mind over matter because in normal circumstances acetone is not considered dangerous)

Maybe we could take a look at this interesting article if we are going to mess around with solvents.

Understanding Solvents: Part I
 
coopec said:
(It was probably mind over matter because in normal circumstances acetone is not considered dangerous)
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In the UK, acetone is considered to be hazardous in certain circumstances. Risks include skin irritation and dryness, inhalation causes headaches, dizziness and drowsiness. Acetone can also cause severe eye irritation. Gloves and eye protection should be worn when using it. Lots of ventilation is essential if using acetone in an enclosed space (a boat, for example).

https://www.nhsggc.org.uk/media/236208/msds-acetone.pdf
 
Thanks for the answers so far. Wasn't with the boat since and will buy the angle grinder with cup brush soon.

Once that's done I can worry about panels amd insulation
 
thinwater said:
If it is friable, nothing is faster than an angle grinder with a cup brush. And not a cup brush on a drill--way too slow. Lots of mess, but it vacuums up. Wear an N100 respirator. And a box fan on the deck hatch on exhaust.

If it is not friable, xylene, rags, a scrapper, and a fan on exaust over the deck hatch (really, really helps). Acetone also works, particularly after a good pass with scraper and xylene.
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We found the cup brush gets clogged with glue. The version with the bristles pointing outwards was far more effective and quicker. We used Tyvek suits, mask, gloves taped at wrists. You are not just removing glue but some glass fibre. Itchy isn't the word if you don't suit up.
 
I have found paint brush cleaner very good at removing glue residues, especially masking and duct tape remains and it has the advantage (?) of not knocking you out.
 
Don't know whether it would , but the antifoul remover might work- if it did-I'd still cover up when using for this job.
Regarding glues for the battening method and their adherence to the cabin 'ceilings'-I used Gorilla glue which works on slightly damp/dry surfaces, but use the bare minimum as it does expand when curing.

ianat182
 
Having had to remove a fair amount of foul glue and old crumbly foam I've tried all the methods mentioned plus a couple more.
Solvents of various types left soft sticky lumps that were even harder to remove.
Sanding and grinding was ineffective; the pads clogged up instantly. Abrasive wheels and cups were effective (though they clogged up often and I got through a lot) but made a dreadful mess and lots of dust. And since epoxy and glass dust is harmful and very uncomfortable on the skin, I had to suit up and wear goggles and a good mask (respirator type was my choice in very confined areas) plus rig up an extractor and screen off the area with plastic sheets.

What has proved just as effective is a heat gun and a pull scraper, sharpened frequently. Play the heat gun over a small area of old adhesive and pull a row of it into a long 'pillow' then pull it off. Slow, boring and hot work but much, much less messy than with power tools and less expensive in clogged wheels.
I found that push scrapers, old chisels and even a multitool saw blade ground to make a vibrating scraper don't keep the old adhesive rolling up anything like as well as a pull scraper. And without heat they become either gummed up or hard work.
 
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differentroads said:
Having had to remove a fair amount of foul glue and old crumbly foam I've tried all the methods mentioned plus a couple more.
Solvents of various types left soft sticky lumps that were even harder to remove.
Sanding and grinding was ineffective; the pads clogged up instantly. Abrasive wheels and cups were effective (though they clogged up often and I got through a lot) but made a dreadful mess and lots of dust. And since epoxy and glass dust is harmful and very uncomfortable on the skin, I had to suit up and wear goggles and a good mask (respirator type was my choice in very confined areas) plus rig up an extractor and screen off the area with plastic sheets.

What has proved just as effective is a heat gun and a pull scraper, sharpened frequently. Play the heat gun over a small area of old adhesive and pull a row of it into a long 'pillow' then pull it off. Slow, boring and hot work but much, much less messy than with power tools and less expensive in clogged wheels.
I found that push scrapers, old chisels and even a multitool saw blade ground to make a vibrating scraper don't keep the old adhesive rolling up anything like as well as a pull scraper. And without heat they become either gummed up or hard work.
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Don't disagree with your approach. The alternative if you can live with the mess is the outward facing bristles type angle grinder for pure speed. It removes the glue very very fast. The job will be over quickly but the boat will need lots of vacuum cleaning unless you go at a cabin at a time and sheet and tape off each cabin to contain the dust. This was our approach.
 
geem said:
Don't disagree with your approach. The alternative if you can live with the mess is the outward facing bristles type angle grinder for pure speed. It removes the glue very very fast. The job will be over quickly but the boat will need lots of vacuum cleaning unless you go at a cabin at a time and sheet and tape off each cabin to contain the dust. This was our approach.
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Agreed. Motorised abrasive wheels, brushes , etc are fast and effective but I can't do with the mess now my refit is done (new upholstery, redecorated, I live on board.)
Heatgun and scraper is slower in action but needs less preparation and clean up time.
With a boat emptied of contents and soft furnishings I'd go your route. I'd tape up cupboards, lockers, drawers and doors so I'd only have to brush and vacuum the mess, then wash down.
 
differentroads said:
Agreed. Motorised abrasive wheels, brushes , etc are fast and effective but I can't do with the mess now my refit is done (new upholstery, redecorated, I live on board.)
Heatgun and scraper is slower in action but needs less preparation and clean up time.
With a boat emptied of contents and soft furnishings I'd go your route. I'd tape up cupboards, lockers, drawers and doors so I'd only have to brush and vacuum the mess, then wash down.
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That .... is worth thinking about. Hm.

I actually was just going to order an angle grinder and a cup brush online, and only came in to see if there were specific recommendations for cup brushes. But thank you for your input.
 
DangerousPirate said:
Are there any cheaper materials than plywood? Cause the ply costs me a lot more than the vinyl. :O
Really didn't expect that.
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Carpet. I've seen recommended the thin carpet used in exhibition halls etc. I looked into it for my refit but my better half sqashed the idea on aesthetic grounds. I've a freind who used it and is happy though
Re plywood being more expensive. Yes, could be. Did you include the cost of contact glue in your comparison? A very significant cost
 
differentroads said:
Carpet. I've seen recommended the thin carpet used in exhibition halls etc. I looked into it for my refit but my better half sqashed the idea on aesthetic grounds. I've a freind who used it and is happy though
Re plywood being more expensive. Yes, could be. Did you include the cost of contact glue in your comparison? A very significant cost
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We used F Ball marine adhesive. Contact adhesive tends to fail on headlining panels if the inside of the boat gets very hot.
 
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