Kurrawong_Kid
Well-Known Member
I have some topcoat left but no curing agent. I have some curing agent left over from the primer. Would that work with the topcoat? (Blakes/hempel) Thanks in advance!
Hardener for 2 pack epoxy paint
- Thread starter Kurrawong_Kid
- Start date
VicS
Well-Known Member
The product Id codes appear to be different so possibly not but it might be worth trying a little or contacting Hempel's technical people.
Kurrawong_Kid
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Will do.
PuffTheMagicDragon
Well-Known Member
FWIW
I have tried it with International Perfection topcoat when the 'proper' hardener had gone solid and all I had left was the one for the undercoat. I also mixed some dark blue topcoat with white undercoat to get an undercoat that was light blue (for the boot-top line). There was no problem with hardening and the paint cured well. I imagine that it would be the same with Hempel.
I find it irritating that one cannot buy just the hardener. I have tried storing the leftover hardener in a tightly sealed glass jam jar; although it is an improvement the liquid will also go solid after a couple of months. Most annoying.
I have tried it with International Perfection topcoat when the 'proper' hardener had gone solid and all I had left was the one for the undercoat. I also mixed some dark blue topcoat with white undercoat to get an undercoat that was light blue (for the boot-top line). There was no problem with hardening and the paint cured well. I imagine that it would be the same with Hempel.
I find it irritating that one cannot buy just the hardener. I have tried storing the leftover hardener in a tightly sealed glass jam jar; although it is an improvement the liquid will also go solid after a couple of months. Most annoying.
William_H
Well-Known Member
Am I wrong in thinking that the paint you have is not epoxy but rather polyurethane? Epoxy is not suitable for exposed areas due to UV degradation. Polyurethane is a 2 pack paint. olewill
Kurrawong_Kid
Well-Known Member
You are probably correct! I shall have to check what it says on the tin if it is not covered by a paint dribble!
ianabc
Well-Known Member
if it is polyurethan 2 pack you probably are aware that as it sets/hardens it releases cyanide....
Pasarell
Well-Known Member
Absolute rubbish!
Most 2 pack polyurethanes are isocyanate cured and if you spray them you will release free isocyanates to atmosphere which can be dangerous. This is not cyanide!!
If you brush or roll 2 pack polyurethanes no isocyanates are released to atmosphere and there is no more risk than from any other DIY paint.
The clue is in the lack of dead bodies around boatyards in the painting season!
To cure properly 2 pack polyurethanes need to be mixed accurately with their curing agent. This is why the manufacturers give you the correct amount of curing agent for the base you have bought. A tip if you are only using a part tin is to not open the lid of the curing agent. Instead punch a hole in the bottom big enough for it to slowly come out. Measure the correct amount and then seal the bottom of the tin with tape. Don't turn the tin upside down at any time so the curing agent does not go hard in contact with atmosphere. Next time you want to use it punch through any thin crust that has formed inside the tape and repeat the process.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
that was the advice i had from international many yrs ago
PuffTheMagicDragon
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that tip; I shall certainly try it when I next use two-pack polyurethane.
(However, I am still annoyed that we cannot buy tins of hardener separately, as and when we need them, the same as we do for the resins that we use in fibreglass work.)
macd
Well-Known Member
It seems a universal practice (or close to it) to bundle both packs with paints. Many epoxies come with a choice of hardeners, of course, which may account to the different practice.
