gybing the genoa when its poled out

[ColinR]

Does anyone have a nifty technique for doing this? When I pole out the genoa I get the pole all set up first with uphaul, downhaul etc and the sheet running through the end of the pole, then gybe sail over and haul sheet in. But if I then want to change to the other tack I dont have a very organised way of gybing given that I dont want to take the pole off the mast fitting when its under load.

cheers, Colin

 

[piperdog]

get a lesson on spinaker gybing from a racy type

 

[Talulah]

I use lazy sheets. It becomes very difficult to re-attach the pole if you don't.

 

[johnalison]

If it's really blowy I merely furl the genoa, move the pole over & re-deploy the other side. But then, I'm talking geriatric-cruising. Having a long track on the mast helps, so I can hoist the attached end of the pole high enough to bring the outer end right inboard.

For choice, I gybe the genoa into the lee of the main so that there is no tension on the new sheet as I set it up.

 

[ColinR]

do you attach the lazy sheets only when you are going to use the pole?

 

[Twister_Ken]

Before first setting the sail to the pole make sure the lazy sheet is over the topping lift.

To start the gybe, raise the inboard end of the pole on the mast and check away the topping lift so that the pole will be able to swing across inside the forestay.

Now trip the sheet from the pole and gybe the genny BUT NOT THE MAIN.

Swing the pole through the fore triangle to the leeward side.

Clip the new sheet into the pole end (at this point the sheet will be floppy because the sail is collapsed behind the ungybed mainsail).

Drop the inboard end of the pole and harden the topping lift to set the pole on the new gybe.

Gybe the mainail

Trim the genoa sheet to set the sail.

Hint. Do a dry run to find how far up the mast the pole heel needs to go for you to gybe the pole inside the forestay. Mark this point so you'll know in future. Also mark the topping lift at the point where it is checked away enough to let the pole swing through. Splicing a bit of coloured thread through the lift at the appropriate point is easy to do.

 

[irawnsley]

Attach a warp or spare sheet to the pole about two thirds out from the mast (normally use a clove hitch) the other end goes back to the cockpit area and is made off on a spare winch or cleat, this holds the pole back. Gybe the foresail in much the same way as you would normally, the pole will stay in position (providing you have a downhaul and an uphaul attached) because it is now held in triangulation. You can then stow the pole at will or leave it and gybe back again.

 

[john_morris_uk]

Ken,

Great description, unfortunately we have a baby stay on our boat and the only way to gybe our pole is to end for end it. Its a gurt big pole too. Hey ho.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Unless your rig is very precarious, you probably don't need a baby stay going downwind - usually they are used to stop the rig pumping going upwind in a blow. With a bit of ingenious shacklery you could unrig it on legs where a poled gybe might be called for.

 

[flaming]

If you are end for ending then use lazy sheets, so two sheets per side when running with a pole.

The key with all foredeck work, whether with a genoa or a kite is to never ever do anything on the pointy end with a loaded rope. I put a working genoa sheet in this category even when is is blanketed, as in difficult conditions (i.e with waves) the chances are the sail will fill, and the rope will load.

If your boat is already rigged for spinnaker gear, then it's a piece of cake. Whilst the genoa is still sheeted in hard attach the extra sheets. Run them outside of everything and back to a block at the back of the boat. Then rig the windward extra sheet into the end of the pole and position the pole using downhall and another rope to secure it aft. If you're being clever a spinnaker guy works well here, but a rope just taken to a cleat works just as well. Then haul the sail over.
To gybe simply sheet in on the original sheet and ease the extra one to take the load out of it, swap the pole over, putting the new extra sheet in the pole end as you go.

 

[Twister_Ken]

End-for-end works on a small boat without too much hassle, but with a 'gurt big pole' it can be a PITA (and dangerous to boot in a seaway). If it really is to much of a PITA, probably better to unrig the pole, park it, gybe the boat, and re-rig the pole on t'other side. Not quick but hey, you're cruising, and if you wanted to go quick you'd be using a coloured downwind sail and a bunch of hairy-bummed staff.

 

[john_morris_uk]

Our rig isn't precarious - its fairly robust, and whilst we probably wouldn't lose the mast going downwind without the babystay, its a lot of hassle to make it so that its removeable.

The boat is rigged for cruising and (despite this?), we are also rigged for a spinnaker. So there are a couple of solutions which we use or might use.

1. Buy another pole - which we intend to do for downwind trade-wind sailing. Set the other pole up and gybe over onto the new pole.

2. Roll the headsail away. Gybe the pole end for end, and then unroll the genoa again.

I agree wholeheartedly about NOT messing with spinnaker poles that are under load, or might come under load on the foredeck.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Twin poles are one route, although they seem to have gone out of fashion on many race boats. Be aware that you'll need an extra heel fitting on the mast track, and duplicate topping lifts/downhauls. On the old heavy 41 footer I used to race, we had twin poles, but only used them in hairy conditions. Normally we'd dip pole gybe. The boat had a babystay but we only rigged it going upwind in a seaway.

Never done it myself, but I believe on twin headsail rigs it's common to avoid the need for twin poles by setting one foresail to the pole, and the other to a lead on the end of the squared-off main boom.