Grease points? 290DP out-drive (Coupled to KAD32)

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Hi guys,
I've read the service manual but can't find any info regarding grease points on the 290 outdrive/steering system/engine but someone here said that there are infact grease points somewhere with this configuration.

If anyone does know where they are I would be very grateful!

While we're at it, I drained the gearoil today (need to wait to get new washers before replacing - Keypart part number 36-47 incase anyone else needs them) - I presume it won't do any harm to leave the gearoil empty for a few days? It's pretty mild out so not that worried about condensation

On a lighter note, isin't it a great relief when you do your annual gearoil change, and when the gearoil comes out it looks like it should, still almost clear and no signs of water!
 
Hi

Think the only greese point is on the steering head, which you will get at from the inside of your boat, its near the top of the steering arm.



Ians
 
And very awkward to get to on some boats, it's right at the back above the transom shield.

You need a grease gun with a flexible hose at the end. Keep squirting until it ooozes out from around the little black plastic wheel that drives the trim position sensor.

dv.
 
[ QUOTE ]
On a lighter note, isin't it a great relief when you do your annual gearoil change, and when the gearoil comes out it looks like it should, still almost clear and no signs of water!

[/ QUOTE ]

Very depressing when it comes out looking like milkshake.
 
One year on my outdrives when I drained them the oil came out a yellowish cream colour, almost cornish ice cream colour, unlike any I had seen before. Had it checked in our oil lab I just happen to have available and they both came back 3% water content!
Stripped both outdrives and on both of them it was the gear selector seal (water in the V part of the seal) but of course you have to change all of them because you never know which one is leaking but the problem I had was that I did a pressure check prior to strip down of the legs and the pressure stayed up for 3 days!!
 
[ QUOTE ]

And very awkward to get to on some boats, it's right at the back above the transom shield.

You need a grease gun with a flexible hose at the end. Keep squirting until it ooozes out from around the little black plastic wheel that drives the trim position sensor.

dv.

[/ QUOTE ]

But it's on the inside, behind the engine yeah? (it would make sense!)

When you say it oozes out from around the trim position wheel, I get confused, as this is on the outside of the boat? So the grease can get from inside the boat to outside??
 
[ QUOTE ]
One year on my outdrives when I drained them the oil came out a yellowish cream colour, almost cornish ice cream colour, unlike any I had seen before. Had it checked in our oil lab I just happen to have available and they both came back 3% water content!
Stripped both outdrives and on both of them it was the gear selector seal (water in the V part of the seal) but of course you have to change all of them because you never know which one is leaking but the problem I had was that I did a pressure check prior to strip down of the legs and the pressure stayed up for 3 days!!

[/ QUOTE ]

3% that's tiny - Would that even do damage over the course of a summer?
 
The problem is I don't know when the water got in, but the boat is in for 46 weeks as we are only allowed out for 6 for winter layup. When the outdrives were stripped I did inspect the gears etc and could not find any evidence of corrosion, it's just amazing how a rubber seal can wear a groove in a stainless steel shaft though!

Steve
 
Out of sheer curiousity, could you get a diagram of this said seal from marinepartseurope.com? I prob shouldn't ask as i'll prolly jinx myself, but handy to know incase I ever get milky oil (ooh er missus!)

I guess i'm lucky where I am, we're a club as opposed to a marina and I have my own trailer, so I take out and put in as I feel fit. Took boat out today to give her a few weeks to 'dry out' before XMas when she'll be re-launched for some Santa cruising woohoo!
 
[ QUOTE ]
When you say it oozes out from around the trim position wheel, I get confused, as this is on the outside of the boat? So the grease can get from inside the boat to outside??

[/ QUOTE ]
I think if we change the word "wheel" to "sensor" which is on the inside not to be confused with the pinion gear which is on the outside, then all is clear.
 
Don't forget the other grease point on the fork of the leg which lubricates the lower steering bush. Again pump in the grease until grease emerges form the steering bush.

Eddie
 
DavidJ - Yes, that clears it up nicely, thanks!

Pendana - Can I ask where exactly is that located?

While we're on topic, a guy I know has been very generous to give me some of his oil for my gearbox change, as I can't locate any of the right stuff locally. It's Castrol HYPOY LS 90. However, when I google it, it says its a mineral oil, but then the description says that its for high performance LSD's?

"Castrol Hypoy LS is a mineral oil based SAE 90 extreme pressure gear lubricant designed to cope with the special friction characteristics of limited slip differentials and associated hypoid gears. It has been particularly developed for use in limited slip rear axles fitted to high performance cars"

Seems odd that a high performance LSD would be using a mineral oil?

Should I be safe and just order some stuff that I know is fully synthetic?
 
Eddie

Alot of the drives are not fitted with a greese nipple on the lower steering.
Mine were 1996 290s and they had no greese point on them, just the steering head one

Ian
 
I wouldn't use it if it were my drive. It may be ok, and I know VP drive oil is not cheap, but I would want the proper synthetic 75w-90 oil that Volvo Recommend.
 
Ian

I didn't know that .. guess Ive never worked on such modern drives!

My old 1993 DP D's still have the lower grease nipples. Wonder when they were phased out and replaced with (presumably) permanently sealed bushes.

Never too old to stop learning!

Thanks

Eddie
 
You can't use that, it must be 75-90 fully synthetic for a 290dp, and personaly I would only use the Volvo stuff in the leg. The drive leg is the only place where the Volvo hype about using their oils is relevent, it has a water absorbing additive which will allow it to keep on performing, even if partialy water contaminated, anything you get from a motor/truck factors will not have this.
I'm normaly the first to mock Volvos claims, but in the case of the drive leg I'd stick to their oil.
 
Eddie
Well if it makes you feel better, my 1996 drives, well one of them died this year and I ended up replaced both units !

ians
 
Thanks for the advise re. grease points

The oil I mentioned isin't the correct stuff - I'm ordering a drum of Castrol SAF XO "Fully Synthetic 75w/90 Multi-grade gear oil to GL5 specification with excellent low temperature performance, load carrying ability and resistance to foaming at high temperatures in sustained high-speed conditions"

At £300 for 20l its expensive but worth it since I know for certain i'm using the right stuff
 
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