Grab rail refurb or replacement

For the DIY option a router (reasonably heavy duty) would make short work of rounding off edges
 
JumbleDuck said:
I wouldn't be quite as sanguine about filler - it might fill (ha ha) the gaps for a bit but I doubt it will hold them together for long. However, I completely agree that these are quite good enough for re-use. My Jouster ones were worse and came up beautifully with a bit of work.
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Well, did exactly that on my grab rails 20+ years ago - still there! Those rails look in pretty good nick structurally - no wasting in the cutouts and those splits are in a place that carries very little load.
 
Tranona said:
Well, did exactly that on my grab rails 20+ years ago - still there!
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As I recall, the problem with Westerly grab rails is that the securing bolts are countersunk head, so once the rails start to split at the ends (they never seem to go at the intermediate pillars) the bolt heads are wedging them further open. Were I the OP I would look at replacing the end bolts at least with something else - cheese head, probably - bearing on a flat surface inside the repaired rail.
 
If I were you I would renew with Iroko. Clamp the two rails together so that what will be the bottoms are face to face. Mark the ends and the landing positions. Use a hole saw in a drill to cut out complete circles at each end of each cut out. (the drill bit in the centre of the hole saw will be at the matching faces of the two rails). Saw between each pair of circular cut outs. Cut round and spoke shave the external rail ends, Run round all edges with rounding over bit in a router. Sand, preserve and fit with large gauge SS screws from underneath. No need to bore & plug top of rails.
 
JumbleDuck said:
As I recall, the problem with Westerly grab rails is that the securing bolts are countersunk head, so once the rails start to split at the ends (they never seem to go at the intermediate pillars) the bolt heads are wedging them further open. Were I the OP I would look at replacing the end bolts at least with something else - cheese head, probably - bearing on a flat surface inside the repaired rail.
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In that case, think I would plug the existing holes and redrill to take cheesehead rather than countersunk.
 
Time for an update. We tried oxalic acid but the results were disappointing for the black mold. We have applied bleach to a small test area and that looks a lot better, but want to leave this a few days to ensure it doesn't damage anything before applying more widely. I'll check the retaining bolts as we will replace if countersink (can't be sure but I thought they were cheese head).

I am encouraged by all the positive replies about refurbishing. I don't mind replacing if necessary (I have a mate who is an engineer with the right woodwork experience and tools so would just be the cost of the wood) but if we can avoid it whilst still having a good structural and cosmetic result then there are plenty of other projects on the boat that could benefit from the cash! I'll update again when we have further info, but thanks for all the advice.
 
DennisF said:
As requested here are some photos of the grabrails. We are going to try some oxalic acid soaks and see what they look like after that

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Would you climb a ladder with rungs like that?
 
DennisF said:
Time for an update. We tried oxalic acid but the results were disappointing for the black mold. We have applied bleach to a small test area and that looks a lot better, but want to leave this a few days to ensure it doesn't damage anything before applying more widely.
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Your rails look very similar to mine about a month ago. Honestly, go and get one of these and you will have them looking good as new (except for filling the cracks) in about an hour. No need to wait days and days. http://www.diy.com/departments/harris-38-mm-wood-scraper/182460_BQ.prd
 
DennisF said:
Time for an update. We tried oxalic acid but the results were disappointing for the black mold. We have applied bleach to a small test area and that looks a lot better, but want to leave this a few days to ensure it doesn't damage anything before applying more widely. .
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Oxalid acid on its own won't remove the mould and remains of any previous coating. You need to scrape and sand the surface first to get back to sound wood. The purpose of OA is to bleach out deeper stains.
 
doug748 said:
They look fine.

With the large crack I would probably open it out and glue in a feather of teak. Done with a bit of care it would be invisible along the grain. You might even consider opening it up with a circular saw and putting in a more substantial piece.
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I'd say sawing open the crack and epoxying in some new wood is the absolute minimum.
You won't get a relaible glue join any other way, the crack will be full of dirt, old teak oil and weathered wood.
Glues don't work well on teak oil.
I'd expect the wood around the screwhole to be degraded too.
TBH they look a bit thin? Or is that a trick of the camera?

Just remember somebody may end up relying on it in rough weather.
 
lw395 said:
I'd say sawing open the crack and epoxying in some new wood is the absolute minimum.
You won't get a relaible glue join any other way, the crack will be full of dirt, old teak oil and weathered wood.
Glues don't work well on teak oil.
I'd expect the wood around the screwhole to be degraded too.
TBH they look a bit thin? Or is that a trick of the camera?

Just remember somebody may end up relying on it in rough weather.
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I would think 32mm
 
SteveIOW said:
If I were you I would renew with Iroko. Clamp the two rails together so that what will be the bottoms are face to face. Mark the ends and the landing positions. Use a hole saw in a drill to cut out complete circles at each end of each cut out. (the drill bit in the centre of the hole saw will be at the matching faces of the two rails). Saw between each pair of circular cut outs. Cut round and spoke shave the external rail ends, Run round all edges with rounding over bit in a router. Sand, preserve and fit with large gauge SS screws from underneath. No need to bore & plug top of rails.
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With respect, a far better way would be to use a round over router bit with a follow bearing on teak stock cut to the outline of the rails. It's a really easy job with the right tools and is almost certainly how they were made originally.

I agree regarding pan head or cheese head bolts because of the risk of splitting being encouraged by the counter sinking and I don't think wood screws from below are anywhere near as safe and secure as through bolting. Safety handles (IMHO) should NEVER be screwed in place with wood screws. Too much risk of them ripping off at a critical time.
 
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pvb said:
Their website and catalogue make no mention of made-to-measure grabrails, so maybe Concerto's suggestion was incorrect.
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I apologise for not reading the complete thread.

There are TWO Howells in the teak business. One imports finished items.

One makes custom parts and is fantastic. He has made me a cockpit table, boxes, gratings, instrument panels etc.

Look for one in Spetisbury.

I'm sure he can help.

Tony
 
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