GP14 guidance

Searush

Searush

Well-Known Member
Joined
14 Oct 2006
Messages
26,779
Location
- up to my neck in it.
back2bikes.org.uk
Well, I finally made time to get my "new" 1958 GP14 out on the dirve & check it over. The Hull seems to be in good order & the sails are not 55 years old but it has had lots of alterations to the running rigging & not all of it is complete or in working order.

For starters, anyone know what these spacers (see attached pic) are about? I believe they are something to do with the mast but how they are used I have no idea. They are L-shaped and all slightly different thicknesses, between about 3mm & 8mm approx.

Secondly, does anyone know the original mainsheet arrangement for a Mk1 GP14? I can easily lash something up, but it would be nice for it to be original.

Cheers, more like this to come! :D
 
If I remember right, the mast in the GP14 is keel stepped. The spacers are then go at the deck level to control the mast bend. They should just slot in the gap in front of the mast.
 
michaelchapman said:
If I remember right, the mast in the GP14 is keel stepped. The spacers are then go at the deck level to control the mast bend. They should just slot in the gap in front of the mast.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is keel stepped & there is a square block on the mast where it passes thro the deck but the mast isn't really very flexible but I have read about setting the mast up for an exact measurement from the black band to the transom, so it may well be for that. Only the gooseneck is no longer moveable & the main is about 6" short of the black band.

Dylan; Yes I have seen those, but this is a 1958 boat & simply has 2 bullseyes on each stern quarter.
 
I vaguely remember crewing in a GP14 once or twice in my youth in the '80's. I seem to remember the mainsheet having a simple, staple shaped horse over the tiller, I guess no more than 18" wide, to act as a traveller track. Those were the days when every summer was sunny :rolleyes:
 
Steve Goacher says...
Using a chock to control the amount the mast bends at deck level when sailing is extremely powerful. To which end I recommend using two 5mm thick chocks as apposed to one 10mm chock. This allows us to control the setting more accurately. Placing the chock in front of the mast keeps the mast straight and the main sail deeper. The middle of the mast is pushed aftwards but the tip of the mast is moved forwards which means that the main leach is tightened; this also helps to give us more power.
Most people tend to put the chock in and leave it. A quick guide to know when to take it out is simply: Am I over-powered? Am I easing mainsheet? If so- de-power! Take a chock out.
Click to expand...

The mainsheet seems to have a horse made from a bit of line in this picture (if the link works) Mainsheet seems to be secured to a becket on the bottom block, up to the boom and back to the block.
 
Last edited:
Searush said:
Well, I finally made time to get my "new" 1958 GP14 out on the dirve & check it over. The Hull seems to be in good order & the sails are not 55 years old but it has had lots of alterations to the running rigging & not all of it is complete or in working order.

For starters, anyone know what these spacers (see attached pic) are about? I believe they are something to do with the mast but how they are used I have no idea. They are L-shaped and all slightly different thicknesses, between about 3mm & 8mm approx.

Secondly, does anyone know the original mainsheet arrangement for a Mk1 GP14? I can easily lash something up, but it would be nice for it to be original.

Cheers, more like this to come! :D
Click to expand...


Steve if you want to revert to original you need wood mast and boom:D

Some early GP'S used to have an inverted u shaped bronze "horse" that lifted a single block above the tiller. This allowed about 8" -10" of movement each side of the centreline.
Others used to have two bulls eyes on the deck at the transom and the end of the mainsheet ran up from one to a single pulley on the boom back down to a single pulley on the other then forward to the helm.

None of that modern centre mainsheet rubbish and no jammers!

I remember this well as I had to help my Dad push No.15 named Gyppy out of the water up the ramp at Whitemere. Those were the days:D

Not sure what the spacers are for. Centreboard wedges? Gybing centreboards was a later innovation I seem to remember.
 
My father had a GP14, which he bought new from the Bell Woodworking company in about 1956. I learnt to sail in it and crewed for my father before getting my own Cadet. I'm sure that the original set-up was a brass track which ran across the transom; it was arched using two wooded sections to form a bridge over the tiller. The brass track was a simple section which allowed the block to slide in a simple inverted “T” section traveller. There were also two adjustable stops, secured by thumb screws to limit the travel, but you could only really set these before a race. If I remember correctly the traveller use to stick in the track, especially if it got any sand in it,
I’ve attached a sketch which although from memory, I think is fairly accurate. I use to spend a lot of time maintaining the GP14, I had a deal with my father, if I did the work on the GP he paid for the paint and other stuff I needed to maintain the Cadet.
The photo in the post above shows a much later GP, it’s got plastic sails, not cotton and a Genoa, which was added much later!
 
Ian_Edwards said:
My father had a GP14, which he bought new from the Bell Woodworking company in about 1956. I learnt to sail in it and crewed for my father before getting my own Cadet. I'm sure that the original set-up was a brass track which ran across the transom; it was arched using two wooded sections to form a bridge over the tiller. The brass track was a simple section which allowed the block to slide in a simple inverted “T” section traveller. There were also two adjustable stops, secured by thumb screws to limit the travel, but you could only really set these before a race. If I remember correctly the traveller use to stick in the track, especially if it got any sand in it,
I’ve attached a sketch which although from memory, I think is fairly accurate. I use to spend a lot of time maintaining the GP14, I had a deal with my father, if I did the work on the GP he paid for the paint and other stuff I needed to maintain the Cadet.
The photo in the post above shows a much later GP, it’s got plastic sails, not cotton and a Genoa, which was added much later!
Click to expand...


These tracks were fitted to "keen" racing boats. The raised track meant it was difficult or impossible to mount your seagull on the transom.:) Thus taking something away from the original general purpose nature of the design.
 
Last edited:
Lakesailor said:
Steve Goacher says...

The mainsheet seems to have a horse made from a bit of line in this picture (if the link works) Mainsheet seems to be secured to a becket on the bottom block, up to the boom and back to the block.
Click to expand...

Mine may have been set up like that at one time as there is a loop fitting half way along the boom. But the length of the bit of string on the transom is ludicrous & not apparently adjustable. I have found 2 very old jamb cleats on the forward side the aft knees & can set up an adjustable rope horse. I was wondering if a 3 part sheet would be enough, but they seem to manage with a 2 part!
 
jimi said:
my GP14 had this system

http://multiply.com/mu/capsizeking/....JPG?et=gT1R1JIrhO1FRtDFGrPL5A&nmid=159196461
Click to expand...

Now that's similar to the Laser & quite like the one Lakey showed but the rope horse is adjustable. As I have no track or "staple" or any sign of one ever being fitted that is currently my favourite solution. But I think 3 part using a becket & swivel block to get the extra leverage. Not sure if I want a centre sheet or not yet. I will only know that once I sail her.

Looks like I have a little shopping to do as my box of dinghy bits is sadly lacking these days! :mad:
 
TSB240 said:
These tracks were fitted to "keen" racing boats. The raised track meant it was difficult or impossible to mount your seagull on the transom.:) Thus taking something away from the original general purpose nature of the design.
Click to expand...

You've hit the nail on the head. My next task is actually to fit rowlocks. :D The Seagull may come later (I have a 40 featherweight) but I am not sure I want to cut a hatch in the rear deck yet. But I would like to get hold of a cruising Jib as an alternative to the genoa fitted.

The boat (sail no 1966) named Miss Aisle because the couple who ordered it had been due to get married when he was posted overseas, so they spent the Wedding funds on the boat & got married quietly on post. She has been raced at some time because I have a measurement certificate from a few years back. But over 50 years of different owners all making their own mods has left a few strange scars & bits of kit scattered around the hull & mast.

The main stops about 6" short of the black band, probably because the gooseneck is jammed at the bottom of the track. There is a highfield lever on the mast, presumably to tension the luff & pull the boom down - but it is pretty pointless at the moment. Loads of wierd bits & pieces.
 
Searush said:
The boat (sail no 1966) There is a highfield lever on the mast, presumably to tension the luff & pull the boom down - but it is pretty pointless at the moment. Loads of wierd bits & pieces.
Click to expand...

Usually for the jib luff tension Steve

Go careful on that old girl.
Highfield levers can put some big rig tensions on old hulls. I remember doing this on an old club boat. A bunch of lads decided we would tune her up for the Southport 24 hour. We kept winding on more and more tension and finding it strangely was having no impact on the luff tension.

The mast foot poked through the bottom of the boat eventually!:D
 
TSB240 said:
Usually for the jib luff tension Steve

Go careful on that old girl.
Highfield levers can put some big rig tensions on old hulls. I remember doing this on an old club boat. A bunch of lads decided we would tune her up for the Southport 24 hour. We kept winding on more and more tension and finding it strangely was having no impact on the luff tension.

The mast foot poked through the bottom of the boat eventually!:D
Click to expand...

That was what I expected, but it is mounted above the jib halliard & designed to pull DOWN, not up. And Yes I am aware she is a real old pensioner, plus I have no interest whatsoever in chasing round cans with loads of over-adrenalised macho males with their brains locked on
beating everyone else.
 
johnwest said:
The spacers could be to alter the position of the mast in its foot. My GP had some which altered the rake of the mast.

j
Click to expand...

So they were slipped into the "keel slot" for the mast foot to move it forwards or backwards then? That seems more probable, although the deck hole is fairly loose fore & aft too, altho there is nothing substantial to push forward on at deck level.
 
I too have fond memories of sailing a family owned GP in my long ago youth. I was amused by your suggestion of adopting 'original' layout and fittings; can I suggest that you don't extend this thinking to the transom drains? The twin half inch affairs that feature in the original drawings mean that if the boat takes any volume of water at any time it takes hours to drain. Have fun!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

A
HELP! Trapper 300 Restoration - Seeking Blueprints for a Unique Family Yacht!
Replies
2
Views
254
Neeves
N

Share this page

Top