Gluing window back in a hatch

[kingfisher]

This weekend was so hot here in Belgium, the window popped out of my top hatch. Yep, that's right: automatic ventilation.

What actually happened: I came on board, and it was already stiflingly hot inside. I wanted to open the top hatch, but it stuck a bit: the rubber seal stuck to the frame. As I pushed against the perspex glass plate, I simply pushed it out of the frame.

It is undamaged, but how do I reglue it in the frame?

I think it was originaly done with silicone, but as this is not salt water proof, I want to use another compound, preferably colourless. Does Sikaflex have a colourless compound?

Obi-Wan
http://sirocco31.tripod.com

 

[Chris_Robb]

Don't use a silcone as they are not a really strong glue. The more expenses ones that describe themselves as an adhesive work very well - note sure what they call themselves . Same thing happened to me!

 

[frilaens]

I havn't done it myself, but while searching for sealants I noticed Sikaflex has a product for windows that tolerates UV etc. Can't remember if it's clear or not. I checked their web site but couldn't find the page again www.sika.com

Andy

 

[kingfisher]

Colourless Sika

Yes, I know what you mean. Unfortunately, Sika doesn't have a colourless one.

Obi-Wan
http://sirocco31.tripod.com

 

[airbubble]

Don't use silicone sealant, it'll pop out again. You have to use Sikaflex, but WITH the recommended primer for use in hatches (forgot the number, but it's in their technical help files/booklet) . Otherwise the difference in expansionrate between the pane and frame will loosen the filler again. (as we found out when we re-fitted a pane for a client and he came to collect the boat three days later when we had a scorcher) Sika recommend you use first one sealant type to glue it in, and then apply another coat of UV-resistant sealer, but we always thought this was a sales trick. The spacing between frame and pane is also critical, but if its the original pane I would think that's all right.

 

[steve_cronin]

ANY sealant asked to adhere to three surfaces....

... at right angles - like the groove around a hatch glass (I know it's acrylic) will fail. This is because the cured sealant cannot flex in two dimensions at the same time. When used for wooden strip deck caulking an adhesion preventer tape is first applied to the bottom of the groove so that the sealant only adheres to the edges of the wood thereby being able to flex and not ripped away.

Rutgerson had to replace the whole batch of (in most cases 9 per boat) of deck hatches supplied to Bavaria in 2000-01. Mine was one of them and even after the first unsuccessful replacement Gebo's were finally substituted by Bavaria. Best to send the hatch back to the manufacturer for re-sealing as i think you will find it will fail again very soon.

Steve Cronin

 

[kingfisher]

Return to factory not an option...

...I'm afraid. The Obi-Wan is a 1973 Sirocco MKII, with ditto hatches. So it's DIY, I'm afraid.

Do hatches come in standard sizes ? Otherwise, she could do with a new hatch. How difficult is it to place one ?

Obi-Wan
http://sirocco31.tripod.com

 

[steve_cronin]

Hatch sizes

Yes they do come in standard sizes or at least thereabouts. Take a look at the Marineforce website:- http://www.marineforce.com/

or the one associated with this forum site.

most foredeck hatches are around 500mm X 500mm and are easy to replace. The good old Houdini is cheap and has a toughened glass panel protected by aluminium bars but the seal is prone to damage and therefore leaking.

Steve cronin

 

[Boathook]

I had to put new perspex in my deck hatches (giot?). From the UK suppliers I got all the materials which included 3M 3200? silicone. I was assured that this replaced the original 'glue' that had lasted over 20 years! So far after 10 months it has been going ok