Glue preferences

englishrobs

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I’ve brought my cockpit teak deck lattice home for some TLC. Several loose slats that need removal, sanding and gluing back into place. What’s your preferred go to marine glue for what is a salty wet environment at times, and takes a beating from the sun?
 
People no doubt will start to cry ... Epoxy ..... but beware - you say the lattice is Teak ... if its real teak - then Epoxy doesn't take very well to it.

It needs a real woodworkers formula glue .....

Have you considered 'blind screwing in from underside ??
 
People no doubt will start to cry ... Epoxy ..... but beware - you say the lattice is Teak ... if its real teak - then Epoxy doesn't take very well to it.

It needs a real woodworkers formula glue .....

Have you considered 'blind screwing in from underside ??
The blind screwing is a good idea. I may do that in addition for some extra strength. I love epoxy but considered it wouldn’t be appropriate here.
 
Gorilla Glue (Brown Exterior grade) is the waterproof one ... and does not foam up quite as much as the interior white grade.

But GG is a brand of PU Glue ... there are plenty of same glue but cheaper ... Bison is one name ...

Its excellent for this work - but you must clamp the two parts together and watch for the foaming ....
 
I agree, a foaming polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue or similar is the right glue for this job. Make sure the joints are clear of loose debris before gluing. It moisture cures so dampen the wood a little if it is bone dry.
 
but you must clamp the two parts together and watch for the foaming

Good point, perhaps use wood screws to do the clamping (you will have to plan the work carefully, the open joint time is fairly short) and leave them in place, and don't use too much glue, the foaming expands it a lot, and is a bit of a devil to remove once cured (don't even think about removing it before it's cured).
 
Good point, perhaps use wood screws to do the clamping (you will have to plan the work carefully, the open joint time is fairly short) and leave them in place, and don't use too much glue, the foaming expands it a lot, and is a bit of a devil to remove once cured (don't even think about removing it before it's cured).

De-natured alcohol or IPA removes it - but is best to leave till its near cured and then 'knife' it away - ....

I would still clamp even with the underneath screws ... PU glue can exert a lot of pressure ...
 
I used the stuff below on the same project you are are starting, teak grating. It is an epoxy glue designed for teak. Previously I had repaired with foaming glues which eventually failed at the repair after about 2 years.

This stuff worked, designed for teak, read the blurb Epoxy All Wood Glue. No. 1 for permanent strong joints

Now, in the end, I ordered new grating because other joints started failing and it was just a pain. I assume the grating was original from the early '70s.

I'll be using it again on my gunwale this winter to repair some worn parts with teak inserts, sourced from my old grating and glued into the worn areas.
 
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