Glue for refixing a corner of teak cockpit coaming to GRP

[stranded]

A corner piece of my teak cockpit coaming came away in my hand yesterday. It appears to be a wafer thin layer of the teak that has failed. The joint is glued only (the longer lengths are screwed and glued). The glue residue is rock hard so probably epoxy? - though at 17 years old maybe most glues would be rock hard?

The corner will not be trodden on but is sometime subject to a sheering force by bracing against it.

I have CT 1 on board and I know that has many uses, but maybe not this one because it remains flexible?

I am in France at the moment and not likely to be near a decent chandlery for a few weeks - is there a glue, or a type of glue, that would do the job and that I might find in a diy shed over here? Otherwise it can wait until we get home, but its absence does look very messy!

 

[footsoldier]

I would try something like Araldite or one of its equivalents.

 

[wonkywinch]

If its thin, contact adhesive is best, eg Evostick. It's what I use to fix veneers.

 

[stranded]

If its thin, contact adhesive is best, eg Evostick. It's what I use to fix veneers.

It feels like it’s a bit chunky for evostick (which I still think about as a school glue!) - it’s about 20mm thick and sometime subject to serious sheer forces - am thinking of screwing it too, but still want to get the glue right.

 

[wonkywinch]

It feels like it’s a bit chunky for evostick (which I still think about as a school glue!) - it’s about 20mm thick and sometime subject to serious sheer forces - am thinking of screwing it too, but still want to get the glue right.

I thought school glue was PVA? Evostick must be applied correctly, ie thin layer both surfaces, allow to dry then press together, maybe clamp tight. It's pretty tough stuff.

 

[stranded]

OK, thanks Wonky - I’ll see what is available - though I might want something with a bit more bulk to fill the voids left by the teak that stayed stuck to the grp - I don’t have the wherewithal to sand it dead flat.

 

[PCUK]

My first thought was CT1, and it still is. Score both faces well before applying.

 

[stranded]

My first thought was CT1, and it still is. Score both faces well before applying.

OK - well it would certainly be the easiest option, cause I’ve got some on board. Somewhere...

But would the flex mean I would feel the coaming give a little if I leant my (not inconsiderable) weight on it, which would probably quickly break the caulking seal, or isn’t it that sort of flex?

 

[pmagowan]

Epoxy if under 6mm thick. If over 6mm need a flexible adhesive such as from Sika etc

 

[PCUK]

OK - well it would certainly be the easiest option, cause I’ve got some on board. Somewhere...

But would the flex mean I would feel the coaming give a little if I leant my (not inconsiderable) weight on it, which would probably quickly break the caulking seal, or isn’t it that sort of flex?

The flex with CT1 is minimal and the thickness of the joint would be tiny so there would be no movement.

 

[stranded]

The flex with CT1 is minimal and the thickness of the joint would be tiny so there would be no movement.

OK, that seals it then (sorry!).

 

[Refueler]

PU Glue (Gorilla Glue) Brown exterior version ... but if used - make sure item is clamped well as the PU glue foams and pushes items apart ... but once set - its seawater proof etc. You can sand / cut etc.

 

[Metalicmike]

You can buy Epoxy in a double Syringe just about anywhere, there are three sizes and dead cheap. I keep quite a stock because they are so handy and the cap allows you to re seal them so you only mix what you need. Ideal for a thrifty person like me.