Gel coat issue

PabloPicasso

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Visited the boat first time in several weeks nd two parched of gel coat are cracked.

Starboard side alongside pontoon. I can't see how anything could have collided with it. Anyone got any ideas as to cause??
 

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Were you aware of this unfinished repair from before? Did someone whack your boat and slap on some paste to cover, and walk away? Surely not.

Anyway, looks like a little patience and some fine grit will make it disappear. But what lies underneath? Be prepared.

PWG
 
Were you aware of this unfinished repair from before? Did someone whack your boat and slap on some paste to cover, and walk away? Surely not.

Anyway, looks like a little patience and some fine grit will make it disappear. But what lies underneath? Be prepared.

PWG
Not aware of previous repair. Had the boat 12 years. I wonder why now??

But the real question is how to do a proper repair?
 
Visited the boat first time in several weeks nd two parched of gel coat are cracked.

Starboard side alongside pontoon. I can't see how anything could have collided with it. Anyone got any ideas as to cause??

I agree with the other posts. Also this type of fairly parallel curved cracks indicate that the hull has been depressed at the centerpoint of the curve (to the left) and that you have a hard spot/line right - bulkhead, etc. A fender hanging to the left (referring to the picture) can in a storm (or several storms over time) can cause this damage, but does not leave a mark at the impact point.
 
There have been a rake of gales over the last fee weeks. This is only the 2nd winter afloat in 22 years, and the first on a marina.

Eilerts could be right about cause I suppose. But the real question is how to repair. I Could grind out the cracks and fill with a thickened epoxy. But how to redo the top finish?
 
There have been a rake of gales over the last fee weeks. This is only the 2nd winter afloat in 22 years, and the first on a marina.

Eilerts could be right about cause I suppose. But the real question is how to repair. I Could grind out the cracks and fill with a thickened epoxy. But how to redo the top finish?

I'd get all that top stuff off as it's going to fall off anyway then decide what to do from there. If the rest of the gel coat is ok apart from the hairline cracks the normal fix is to open them out with a Dremel & fill with Flocoat, sand down to flatness finishing with 800 grit then polish with Farecla. You probably won't get an exact colour match but any minor difference will fade away over time. East Coast Fibreglass can send you everything you need & are always willing to offer advice on the phone.

I don't think epoxy is a good idea as you don't need the strength & there's not much you can cover it with.
 
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There have been a rake of gales over the last fee weeks. This is only the 2nd winter afloat in 22 years, and the first on a marina.

Eilerts could be right about cause I suppose. But the real question is how to repair. I Could grind out the cracks and fill with a thickened epoxy. But how to redo the top finish?

If you want lasting results you have to consider the cause. Apparently, cracks in the original gelcoat has been covered with filler and this has cracked along the same old cracks, because these represent the weakest point of the hull (or the surface layer) and get most of the bending.
Widening the cracks with a Dremel tool may work fine and is worth trying, but you should not be surprised if they appear again after the next storm. I have repaired a lot of cracks this way, but mostly cracks from cure shrink tension, typical from too thick gelcoat in corners. In the lower part of the picture the cracks are so dense that it make less sense widening each crack. Instead grind away the gelcoat at this part all the way to the laminate. Then you will see if the cracks extend into the laminate and how thick the gelcoat is. If the cracks goes continues into the laminate, the hull is weakened here. The boat will not rip apart, but you will have more bending here and any quick fix of the gelcoat will not last, and the cracks will continue to grow. If the gelcoat is thick and there is no cracks in the laminate, you probably can get away with the Dremel method combined with carefully thinning the gelcoat. The more spread cracks in the upper part can like be repaired with the Dremel method.
Denser group of cracks = higher stress

It is not always easy to see the cracks in the laminate. If you have very small flashlight, 1cm thick and no light going sideways, you place it in contact with the laminate and shine into it at the side of where you expect a crack. A crack reflects light and the laminate will appear darker on the opposite side. If the light spreads evenly out in the laminate, you have no crack.
 
I'd get all that top stuff off as it's going to fall off anyway then decide what to do from there. If the rest of the gel coat is ok apart from the hairline cracks the normal fix is to open them out with a Dremel & fill with Flocoat, sand down to flatness finishing with 800 grit then polish with Farecla. You probably won't get an exact colour match but any minor difference will fade away over time. East Coast Fibreglass can send you everything you need & are always willing to offer advice on the phone.

I don't think epoxy is a good idea as you don't need the strength & there's not much you can cover it with.
Hello - what sort of dremmel fitting would I need please?
 
I'm not entirely sure about the repair being after the stress cracking. Could be the stress cracks (as others have said possibly from fender pressure) could have been recent, but near an old repair, and the same fender pressure distortion partially cracked off a poorly keyed in repair.

What make/model of boat?
 
As others have said looks like a bad repair but if the gelcoat is over thick these sort of cracks can sometimes appear after winter due to differential expansion particularly on the side that gets the morning sun. Just grind out the whole area with an angle grinder. Sounds drastic but its quicker easier and more reliable than trying to chase out individual cracks.
 
Hello - what sort of dremmel fitting would I need please?
I use the smallest round burr I can find. I think my preferred one is 8mm (TCT retired from metalwork). Follow the crack with it to get a uniform ‘groove’. A coarse domed sanding stone would achieve the same.

The aim is not to ‘V’ the cracks as much as to ‘U’ them in a shallow, feathered, profile. This maximises the surface area for the gel to adhere to.
 
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