Gearbox problem any clues?

aquatom said:
As said before, there is no feedback to the EDC system from the gearbox. A mechanical fault in the gearbox will not tell the EDC to select neutral. I think you are looking at an EDC fault.
Click to expand...

I agree with that. If the gearbox was faulty then I wouldn't be able to select gears or move the boat. Are the solenoids live all the time it's in gear, does anyone know this? If so maybe something spiking or just a solenoid fault that automatically defaults back to neutral. I am getting solenoids checked this week and will do this prior to oil cooler changeover.I'm not handy enough nor do I have enough time to sort myself so have to get the experts in on this one.
Oil filter change for me etc no problem EDC issue...no chance.
 
If there are no fault codes then it's unlikely to be a solenoid fault or a fault with the wiring to the solenoids. If there was a poor connection at the solenoids or if the coil in the solenoid was going open circuit then a fault code would be generated. Fault codes will also be generated if there is a wiring fault to the levers or a potentiometer or calibration fault in the levers. Unfortunately when you get these kind of faults with no fault codes it is often an internal fault in the ECU. ££££££.
It is easy to swap the ECUs between the engines but the controls will need to be recaliberated.
What type of button panel do you have at the helm? Is it the older large button panel with the aluminum plate or is it the newer plastic one with the rubber buttons?
 
aquatom said:
If there are no fault codes then it's unlikely to be a solenoid fault or a fault with the wiring to the solenoids. If there was a poor connection at the solenoids or if the coil in the solenoid was going open circuit then a fault code would be generated. Fault codes will also be generated if there is a wiring fault to the levers or a potentiometer or calibration fault in the levers. Unfortunately when you get these kind of faults with no fault codes it is often an internal fault in the ECU. ££££££.
It is easy to swap the ECUs between the engines but the controls will need to be recaliberated.
What type of button panel do you have at the helm? Is it the older large button panel with the aluminum plate or is it the newer plastic one with the rubber buttons?
Click to expand...

One with rubber buttons.
 
scubaman said:
Black smoke could be the the port engine working for the both of them?
Click to expand...

also my first idea,
it appears to me that the non tuning drive has a gear switch problem,
don't know the drive,
but can't it be the cable or solonoid or .... that switches the drive " in gear" that is faulty or needs adjusting ?
 
Today I have 5 flashes then a further five flashes on the EDC control panel. This gives me an 'open circuit on the drive solenoid' which had not shown itself before. Thanks for the diagnosis VP.
I checked the wiring to the solenoids and found the culprit, a corroded wire had broken away from the solenoid. New spade connector attached and out for a quick sea trial and hey presto...all working as it should so I'm mighty relieved.
Thanks everyone for all the advice folks, to Andy59 for donating the very expensive spade connector and VP for his advice.

Now we can go away over Easter, the weather's going to be fab:) my gearboxes are going to click in and out of gear as they should and the sea's gonna be flat calm:encouragement:
 
Yes great result. However, spade connectors are not a reliable way of making a connection, especially in a tough environment like a boat. You really need waterproof connections if possible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top