Gas Regulator Problems

jamiepyoung

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We recently decided to splash out on a new cooker. Given we live aboard and intend to do some extended cruising, we went for the GN Espace oven. We're very pleased with the oven so far.

We also had a new gas locker and all the gas hoses replaced and certified at the same time.

However, the first (new) regulator failed within a few months. The gas installer very decently came back to resolve it (a couple of hours each way for him) without any hassle.

The regulator now seems to have failed again (about 3 months later). I'm sure the fitter would come back and resolve it again, but it seems odd that 2 have failed so quickly.

Is there something that might be causing this to happen?

Thanks
 
Itwould be interesting to know the make of the failed regulators also that they were Annexe M, marine type.

About 18moths ago there was recall of Peak Gas regulators but they were not marine ones, in fact did not even comply with European standard EN12864

Socal appear to sell only GOK and GasBOAT marine regulators
 
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Surely the regulator itself determines the pressure and flow rate from the cylinder irrespective of whatever is attached to the other end of the gas hose?

Richard

An overfilled cylinder can sometimes create too much gas at the cooker jets.
The immediate assumption is the regulator has failed. But discharging some gas from the bottle can fix this. If the regulator gets replaced following some useage of the bottle all appears to be fixed. 2 months later empty bottle is now replaced with another over filled bottle. Problem is assumed to have re-occured blaming it on the replacement regulator.

In this instance if I were the OP I would first discharge some gas from the bottle and see if the problem has gone away.
 
An overfilled cylinder can sometimes create too much gas at the cooker jets.
The immediate assumption is the regulator has failed. But discharging some gas from the bottle can fix this. If the regulator gets replaced following some useage of the bottle all appears to be fixed. 2 months later empty bottle is now replaced with another over filled bottle. Problem is assumed to have re-occured blaming it on the replacement regulator.

In this instance if I were the OP I would first discharge some gas from the bottle and see if the problem has gone away.

I'm not sure why you are quoting me as I'm talking about the cooker "flowing too much gas for the regulator" rather than any potential issue with the cylinder. :confused:

Richard
 
The problem is that there doesn't seem to enough gas flowing to the cooker.

The oven won't get above 100 degrees and is a very small flame and the rings are not as 'powerful' as before.

We assume it's the regulator as it's the same problem we had before.

We'll try to release some gas from the bottle to see if it helps.
 
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My regulator fails like clockwork every two years or so, sometimes more often (once, like the case of the OP, within months).

Cheap Chinese carp sold as expensive specialised kit -- I'm sure that's the root problem. I now just keep a spare on board and no longer trouble the nice gas fitter man.

Same thing with solenoids.

It would be nice to know a source of really good ones.
 
The problem is that there doesn't seem to enough glass flowing to the cooker.

The oven won't get above 100 degrees and is a very small flame and the rings are not as 'powerful' as before.

We assume it's the regulator as it's the same problem we had before.

We'll try to release some gas from the bottle to see if it helps.

That is the classic symptom in my experience.

Overfilled cylinders are pretty unlikely, I would guess, if acquired from Calor. They weigh them.
 
Surely the regulator itself determines the pressure and flow rate from the cylinder irrespective of whatever is attached to the other end of the gas hose?

Richard

The regulator tries to keep the outlet pressure constant.
The cooker determines the flow rate if the supply pressure is right.
As the gas expands, it cools.
Flowing too much gas can cause problems with the regulator getting too cold.

I'd suggest buying from a place like SoCal who know what they are selling, after checking out the needs of the stove. Which could be as simple as how many kW is it.
 
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Link to photo of the regulator. Isn't it upside down? Shouldn't the little nozzle point down?

yes i beleive so. . Those designed for bottle mounting often have a right angled nozzle .


4002%20M.jpg


Somewhat puzzled by the fact that it appears to be in the bottom of a compartment. Some general photos of the gas bottle locker showing the relative positions of the regulator and gas bottle would be worth posting.


.
 
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You could have problem with oil/carp in the gas line. Remove the regulator and cooker then blow some compressed air through. If you don't remove the regulator and cooker you will damage them.
 
It's mounted to the wall of the locker. The brass fitting with nothing connected is the top. That goes to the bottle.

There are going to be times when liquid gas will collect in it if you dont turn the gas off at the bottle every time you finish using it. Eg evenings as the temp falls and the temp of the regulator and pipework cools below the temp of the cylinder. If the regulator is low compared with the bottle it will be worse. Not absolutely sure if that will cause problems though ... ???

( I used to have a high pressure stove ... no regulator. had to be very careful to burn off the gas in the pipework with that one)
 
Looking at it again I am concerned about the exit from the locker. It should be via a gas tight bulkhead fitting.. Its difficult to see that's the case.

AFAIK they should be mounted with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet on the top anyway. The drain/ vent nozzle will then point downwards.

Where did you say you found this installer?

Why are there screws missing / loose ? You bin taking it apart?
 
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