Galvanic corrosion or cathodic chalking

About Time

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I have an issue that I should like to share with the exports in here.

I have a Windy that is coppercoated (R) back in 2012. The is the true Coppercoat - non conductive. I got the boat right after the Coopercoat was applied and I have always used zincs and no issues. Last year I installed a galvanic isolator and changed from zinc to alloy anodes on all my underwater fittings/ drives as I have the boat moored in brackish water (salinity 28 - 33). I was told this would be the perfect protection for my boat. However after getting her into the barn for the winter this last weekend I see that there is some stange deposit next to the trimtabs and the thruster in front. Please see attached photo of one of the trim tabs. Same photo show one of the drive legs and here there is no deposit around. The only difference as I can see is that the Coppercoat is not painted up against the drive leg while this is the case with the thruster and trimtabs .... anyway. Important to mention is that none of the underwater fittings or drives seem to have corroded.

After speaking to my anode supplier he says that he sometime sees "pitting around the Coppercoat but usually in fresh water only".... and suggest that the isolator for sure is a good idea and that he will remain on alloy anodes. Nothing else to add.

Then I turned to Coppercoat and they said that it seems as cathodic chalking and that I should just remove this by acid/ cillit bang. He adds "From the pictures provided, I suspect that you are experiencing a process known as “cathodic chalking”. This is particularly likely to occur when skin fittings or trim tabs etc are bonded to an anode and if the boat is left static for some time. The skin fitting will be a cathode in the circuit that is set up and the end result is deposition of calcium from the water around the fitting. The affected area will gradually grow with time. It happens on any antifouling but is usually only visible on a hard surface (such as Coppercoat) as conventional eroding anti-fouls will break away (removing the chalking deposit in the process). Here's probably not really anything you can do to stop this from happening - all you can do is to clean it off as/when/if it does occur."

Of course I am concerned... If it is only deposit of calcium in the water and I can clean it off it is fine.... Just another work :-) ... but since I installed the galvanic isolator and changed to alloy I of course get afraid that I have done something wrong that over time will cause a true corrosion.

I hope someone can assist me. Thanks.
 

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I think I have similar on my boat (Fletcher/Mercruiser/Alpha I).
It had been sitting stationary on it's mooring in a tidal river for about four months before being lifted. One of the reasons I had it hauled out was because I was afraid the anodes would be depleted but they were hardly eroded. However, they were coated with white deposit similar (but not identical) to what I think I see in your picture.
Do you have a better picture(s)?
 
Better and more pictures attached. Thanks.
 

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It looks like you have an ICCP (impressed current cathodic protection) system fitted to the transom of your boat. I have this also (but under the (single) drive unit).

I had problems with corrosion of my drive unit. The standard fit aluminium anodes were lasting less than three months (the stainless steel prop on my Alpha drive is not isolated from the drive). I added additional aluminium anodes to the transom & the drive anodes lasted maybe six months. I then realised I had an ICCP system fitted but it was not working. I fixed it and anode life improved again. I added a solar panel to keep my leisure battery charged (ICCP uses this battery) and I now see deposits similar to those in your pictures. I am wondering if I am now over-protected.

I have several books on marine corrosion but they do not explain over-protection, merely mentioning it as a problem (mainly on wooden boats - mine is GRP).
 
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Any other inputs guys...? Do I change back to zinc instead of aluminium..? and should I leave the galvanic isolator on... Only two things that is different from the earlier season.
 

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