Gads, disaster! 2GM20 exhaust elbow bolt sheered off!

Freebee said:
if you get on the broken end of the bolt with a drill you drill the bolt centre and use easyouts (google)
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If the other bolts come out freeing the elbow then you're left with an 1/8" stud sticking out of the housing - plusgas or another freeing agent plus a cam stud extractor may help.
I wouldn't drill it unless absolutely nescesary as this weakens the bolt ...
 
These guys show the different types. I think it is called impact only because you can plug your impact driver into the 1/2" drive (not that I would in this case). I do like the Teng one in the fact it is SELF tightening, no fiddling getting the thing on and snugged up.

 
Thanks vyv but I'm going to try stillies anyway as the engine is out of the boat and I'm going to take the head of anyway and can drill it out on a pillar drive if it goes T.U.
 
MagicalArmchair said:
These guys show the different types. I think it is called impact only because you can plug your impact driver into the 1/2" drive (not that I would in this case). I do like the Teng one in the fact it is SELF tightening, no fiddling getting the thing on and snugged up.

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I like those tools! I do like the self-tightening one but also understand the issue about the force being applied off-centre. I've always managed with mole grips or stilsons if I've had any exposed stud to grip and if that's failed I've drilled and extracted but one of those proper extractors would be a useful.

Will the off-centre type get close enough for a stud that's only got 3 or 4mm showing as it looks as if the design will need a longer stud showing than the Halfords type. The guy in the video has got an easy job compared to most broken studs I seem to wrestle with!

Richard
 
The cam wheel type will sit flush with the face from which the stud protrudes. Will cope with less than 1/2 inch of stud. Only problem is that it occupies a bigger total radius so not as good if there is a lot of other stuff around.
 
The cam wheel type removed the motorbike studs.. and there wasn't much room.

One side of it is actually quite narrow.. and it wasn't too hard to loosen and reposition it by just a few degrees whilst extracting. As Vyv says - a very worthwhile purchase even if very rarely used and it does indeed sit flush and grip all the way to the surface.
 
vyv_cox said:
The cam wheel type will sit flush with the face from which the stud protrudes. Will cope with less than 1/2 inch of stud. Only problem is that it occupies a bigger total radius so not as good if there is a lot of other stuff around.
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Ahhh ... I think I see that the Teng one you linked to Vyv has the gripping cam flush with the base of the tool. I think the one in the video has the gripping cam inset a few mm from the lower housing of the tool. I like your Teng one! :)

Richard
 
RichardS said:
Ahhh ... I think I see that the Teng one you linked to Vyv has the gripping cam flush with the base of the tool. I think the one in the video has the gripping cam inset a few mm from the lower housing of the tool. I like your Teng one! :)

Richard
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Roger that, the Teng one may be more expensive than the Halfrauds sort, but the PBO Jedi council has spoken - Teng one on order! Thanks all!

Is using a soldering iron a sensible method of applying heat to those bolts and the thread? It makes sense in my head in the narrow confines of the stb side of my engine?
 
Freebee said:
if you get on the broken end of the bolt with a drill you drill the bolt centre and use easyouts (google)
Click to expand...
In my experience an easyout is a device for making a bad situation worse by snapping off flush with the end if the seized bolt, thereby ensuring that the bolt's completely impossible to remove without a spark eroder or similar
 
Stemar said:
In my experience an easyout is a device for making a bad situation worse
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It saved my bacon when I tried fitting a "clever" sump plug in my Freelander. The idea was that this valve screwed in instead of the plug, and accepted a clip-on hose at service time so that the oil could be drained without removing the undertray that protects the engine for off-road use. A nice idea, but because the fitting has to go in a hole intended for a solid bolt yet contain a spring-loaded valve plus a reasonable-sized passage for oil, the walls of it are very thin. It's made in soft brass, so it didn't take much to shear the head off the thing leaving the remains in situ and the sump impossible to seal, hence no chance of driving anywhere for a fix.

Fortunately I'd bought a set of easy-outs when I saw them in Machine Mart, on the grounds that you always need them when you didn't expect to and so it's best to be prepared. I was very relieved when the twisted remains of the "clever" plug came free, and I decided to put up with removing the tray in future!

Pete
 
prv said:
It saved my bacon when I tried fitting a "clever" sump plug in my Freelander.

Pete
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I appreciate why you put the "clever" in inverted commas!

The issue with easy-outs is you have to be very cautious about how much force to apply. I was trying to remove a sheared bolt a few weeks ago but I could not get the easy-out to move it. It was also broken flush so the clever extractors above would have been no good. Rather than force it and risk a breakage I kept drilling by increasing the size of the bit (luckily I had good access and was fortunate in that my 1.5mm pilot hole had bitten dead centre, although I did break the bit eventually!). Eventually I was up to 5mm and virtually out to the thread in the fitting. Finally I ran it through very gently with a 5mm tap and die which cleared out the rusted-in bolt thread. However I was extremely lucky that the drilling was so central. Hand held drills are not normally so cooperative!

Richard
 
If you're trying to drill out a stud, its worth taking time to mark and centre punch the stud before drilling. In the past I've just started with the drill which then skates around the surface and bites where it chooses having little chance of being down the centre.
 
ghostlymoron said:
If you're trying to drill out a stud, its worth taking time to mark and centre punch the stud before drilling. In the past I've just started with the drill which then skates around the surface and bites where it chooses having little chance of being down the centre.
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Once the elbow is off I'm hoping that I will have enough stud to get the tool Vyv recommended on the stud and remove it carefully with heat, PlusGas and the same amount of luck... drilling it and using an easyout will be the nuclear option, and not one I would do myself with the head in place. That will either mean drafting in an engineer to visit the boat or taking the head off entirely and taking it to an engineering shop. I am pretty confident it won't come to that.... I hope.... PlusGas will be delivered tomorrow, I'll visit her on Thursday before work to give the bolts and thread a soak, and then on Sunday I will have the tool to attempt extraction... :rolleyes:
 
MagicalArmchair said:
Once the elbow is off I'm hoping that I will have enough stud to get the tool Vyv recommended on the stud and remove it carefully with heat, PlusGas and the same amount of luck... drilling it and using an easyout will be the nuclear option, and not one I would do myself with the head in place. That will either mean drafting in an engineer to visit the boat or taking the head off entirely and taking it to an engineering shop. I am pretty confident it won't come to that.... I hope.... PlusGas will be delivered tomorrow, I'll visit her on Thursday before work to give the bolts and thread a soak, and then on Sunday I will have the tool to attempt extraction... :rolleyes:
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Good luck Mark. I'm sure that you will be OK as Vyv's tool (stop sniggering at the back!) sounds like the best one.

Could I be a pain and ask if you could take some photos of the broken stud before you use the extractor and tell us how it goes? If it's good news Teng will make another sale!

Richard
 
Did exactly the same last year ended up having to remove the head after trying stud extractors and then welding on a nut , then sheared flush. I bit the bullet removed the head decoke reset the valves and rebuilt, annoyingly the elbow was fine ! YANMAR make great engines cunningly held together with chocolate fastenings! Best of luck if you need more info just ask. John
 
JVL said:
Did exactly the same last year ended up having to remove the head after trying stud extractors and then welding on a nut , then sheared flush. I bit the bullet removed the head decoke reset the valves and rebuilt, annoyingly the elbow was fine ! YANMAR make great engines cunningly held together with chocolate fastenings! Best of luck if you need more info just ask. John
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Eee gads, I hope it doesn't come to that. If it does come to that I will seek your guidance. I'll take plenty of photos Richard, hopefully it'll be the first time Vyvs tool ends up on the internet for all the world to see.... :)

Thanks chaps.
 
RichardS said:
Could I be a pain and ask if you could take some photos of the broken stud before you use the extractor and tell us how it goes? If it's good news Teng will make another sale!

Richard
Click to expand...

Richard


The photos that I posted links to earlier in this thread show my tool and the studs I extracted from a motorbike cylinder head. You will see my tool is identical to Vyv's tool and there was not a lot of room around the broken studs.
 
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