bikedaft
Well-Known Member
i use it all the time too
esp on eg thermostat bolts to avoid them shearing
esp on eg thermostat bolts to avoid them shearing
Gads, disaster! 2GM20 exhaust elbow bolt sheered off!
- Thread starter MagicalArmchair
- Start date
MagicalArmchair
Well-Known Member
I'll be sure to 'lube up' with copper grease - I plan to take the elbow off as part of my winter service routine each year to inspect it, (well..., maybe every other year).
On my car I am pretty OCD about torque, on the Yanmar I do just tend to 'snug up' so I'll go crazy with the copper grease (albeit, not on the anode threads, of course).
Thanks for the assistance all, the joys of mucking about with old boats!
On my car I am pretty OCD about torque, on the Yanmar I do just tend to 'snug up' so I'll go crazy with the copper grease (albeit, not on the anode threads, of course).
Thanks for the assistance all, the joys of mucking about with old boats!
RichardS
N/A
I know this is an old thread ....... but I've been working on an old engine from a scrap yard on the bench preparing it for transfer into a 4WD with a seized block. During the strip down of the old engine two sheared bolts on the cam belt cover sheared. It's the usual story of steel bolts into aluminium block castings being corroded in after 15 years and the manufacturers not bothering to dip the bolts in copper grease 'cos they don't give an sh1t about what a mechanic has to deal with years after production.
These were 5mm bolts which ended up with about 1 cm left proud of the surface after the shearing. I didn't have room for the Stilsons and the mole wrench, even with blow torch heating, did nothing.
So I re-read this thread of Mark's to remind myself what worked for him. After the re-reading it, I bought myself a set of the Irwin's and used them today.
I had to use the smallest extractor but on the first stud, after a lot of gently rocking to and from ..... it worked. The stud was really corroded in but the Irwin delivered!
The second stud was a different matter. The Irwin was clearly biting really well so full marks for that. However, after the same rocking I began to feel the stud start to move ..... but was actually feeling the metal twist and it simply sheared off again, this time flush with the alloy casting. Although this was really disappointing, it does show the grip strength of the Irwins. I don't think the other types of extractor would have been any more successful as, ultimately, the inherent strength of the stud was the limiting factor and you can't grip the stud more than 100%, of course.
Unfortunately, the story ends badly. I centre punched the broken stud and started drilling. I managed to get a really good central hole and drilled out to 4mm before making a really bad decision which went against all my years of experience when I decided to try my reverse stud extractor. I actually said to my apprentice (Son No 2) that we should keep drilling out as we had such a good hole and we could re-tap the thread at the end if the corroded thread didn't spiral out. However, I tried the reverse extractor.
At one point, I said to the apprentice, I think I should wind this out and carry on drilling ..... and then I felt a little movement so gave it another tiny tweak. And bang .... the extractor snapped in the stud! I've had these extractors for 30-odd years and this is the first time this had happened ...... but I don't think I will ever use them again if I can avoid it.
That, of course, is the end of this bolt and I'll have to re-assembe the engine with a bolt missing. In this case, it's not the end of the world, but, for the life of me, I can't understand why I ignored my instincts based on years of experience and decided to stop drilling. I blame terminal stupidity, damn it!
Richard
These were 5mm bolts which ended up with about 1 cm left proud of the surface after the shearing. I didn't have room for the Stilsons and the mole wrench, even with blow torch heating, did nothing.
So I re-read this thread of Mark's to remind myself what worked for him. After the re-reading it, I bought myself a set of the Irwin's and used them today.
I had to use the smallest extractor but on the first stud, after a lot of gently rocking to and from ..... it worked. The stud was really corroded in but the Irwin delivered!
The second stud was a different matter. The Irwin was clearly biting really well so full marks for that. However, after the same rocking I began to feel the stud start to move ..... but was actually feeling the metal twist and it simply sheared off again, this time flush with the alloy casting. Although this was really disappointing, it does show the grip strength of the Irwins. I don't think the other types of extractor would have been any more successful as, ultimately, the inherent strength of the stud was the limiting factor and you can't grip the stud more than 100%, of course.
Unfortunately, the story ends badly. I centre punched the broken stud and started drilling. I managed to get a really good central hole and drilled out to 4mm before making a really bad decision which went against all my years of experience when I decided to try my reverse stud extractor. I actually said to my apprentice (Son No 2) that we should keep drilling out as we had such a good hole and we could re-tap the thread at the end if the corroded thread didn't spiral out. However, I tried the reverse extractor.
At one point, I said to the apprentice, I think I should wind this out and carry on drilling ..... and then I felt a little movement so gave it another tiny tweak. And bang .... the extractor snapped in the stud! I've had these extractors for 30-odd years and this is the first time this had happened ...... but I don't think I will ever use them again if I can avoid it.
That, of course, is the end of this bolt and I'll have to re-assembe the engine with a bolt missing. In this case, it's not the end of the world, but, for the life of me, I can't understand why I ignored my instincts based on years of experience and decided to stop drilling. I blame terminal stupidity, damn it!
Richard
MagicalArmchair
Well-Known Member
That's grim news Richard! I would have done exactly the same thing I think and used an 'easy out' stud extractor - I'll bear your experience in mind if (when!) I get into the same situation. I suppose you were drilling on a pillar drill? At least you got it all back together successfully!
RichardS
N/A
Hi Mark .... I tried to drill out the Easy-Out stub but it was hopeless. Even high speed cobalt drills don't even scratch the surface although they go through stainless steel without any problem. I'm using a handheld drill but still managed to get a really true drilling before I made the stupid decision to stop drilling.
Richard
ex-Gladys
Well-Known Member
From my days of DIY maintenance on motorbikes (and the Japs are well known for using fasteners made of cheese), E-Z Outs were never used. Last resort was to drill the bolt. My old Kwak GTR 1000 had shoulder bolts (part threaded bolt with the thread being smaller diameter than non threaded) holding the cam cover on, that had to be tightened to 6 ft lbs. I was refitting and bust one with a socket, and just my fingers twiddling the socket. It bust off just proud of the surface, and with a small electrical screwdriver, and gentle tapping on the outer edge, I managed to get it out. All the advice was to drill it out if that failed, because E-Z Outs are very brittle