Furling line replacement

[Chiara’s slave]

What is the breaking strain of the outer cover without the core?
Our furling line is 8mm cruising dyneema - with the vast majority of the strength in the core.
But importantly this is in fact a REEFING as well as furling line. Going to windward into 30 knots (or more) breeze, with the jib sheet winched as hard as feasibly possible using both hands, the strain on the furling / reefing line must be enormous. Higher strain than even the 14mm jib sheet. Perhaps the highest loaded running rigging on the boat.
I might consider using a dyneema core only for part of the rope, but never cover only. If it bursts in a strong wind and the jib comes unrolled in 35-40knots then things will be tricky.
NB. The vast majority of cruising boats I see sailing to windward the jib / genoa sheet is too slack in a breeze.

A lot of racers don’t seem to sheet things in tight enough either. The last inch gets you another degree or so of pointing. The half reefed cruising genoa in 20kn though, barely sheeted, with the fairleads 2ft too far aft is a common sight though. Not sure what they’d think if they watched me put the 24:1 mainsheet on the winch.

 

[alahol2]

Many years ago I checked with Marlow about the split of strength between sheath and core in polyester braid on braid. They came back to say that the split was near as dammit 50/50.
I have been using 8mm with the core removed from the first 1/3rd (from the drum) ever since.

 

[dunedin]

Many years ago I checked with Marlow about the split of strength between sheath and core in polyester braid on braid. They came back to say that the split was near as dammit 50/50.
I have been using 8mm with the core removed from the first 1/3rd (from the drum) ever since.

And do you crank in the genoa sheet bar tight when going to windward with reefed genoa into 30 knots true?
It certainly ain’t 50/50 core and outer in our cruising dyneema (ie dyneema core, polyester outer)

 

[webcraft]

Avy-J has the core from (maybe) 10mm line as the furling line. It's super soft on the hands and easy to use. Never had an issue with it.

 

[BabaYaga]

It might be worth mentioning that Liros makes a line, called Taper Pro, exactly for this purpose. 30 m length, of which the last 10 m is in a smaller diameter for the drum. Available as 11/8 mm and 9/6 mm. Not cheap, but works very well in my experience.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

It might be worth mentioning that Liros makes a line, called Taper Pro, exactly for this purpose. 30 m length, of which the last 10 m is in a smaller diameter for the drum. Available as 11/8 mm and 9/6 mm. Not cheap, but works very well in my experience.

And in mine

 

[alahol2]

And do you crank in the genoa sheet bar tight when going to windward with reefed genoa into 30 knots true?
It certainly ain’t 50/50 core and outer in our cruising dyneema (ie dyneema core, polyester outer)

Yes

 

[Boathook]

What is the breaking strain of the outer cover without the core?
Our furling line is 8mm cruising dyneema - with the vast majority of the strength in the core.
But importantly this is in fact a REEFING as well as furling line. Going to windward into 30 knots (or more) breeze, with the jib sheet winched as hard as feasibly possible using both hands, the strain on the furling / reefing line must be enormous. Higher strain than even the 14mm jib sheet. Perhaps the highest loaded running rigging on the boat.
I might consider using a dyneema core only for part of the rope, but never cover only. If it bursts in a strong wind and the jib comes unrolled in 35-40knots then things will be tricky.
NB. The vast majority of cruising boats I see sailing to windward the jib / genoa sheet is too slack in a breeze.

At the time the sailmaker (old school type), said just the outer core would be good enough and he has been correct so far after over 25 years. This is for braid on braid so nothing te hnical by today's standards.