Fuel Tank for Westerly Pageant

[conks01]

I've discovered over the weekend that the reason why the Yanmar 1GM10 starts, runs for 20 seconds then stalls was because there was hardly any fuel coming out of the tap connected to the original mild steel painted tank. It was trickling rather than flowing.

Having drained all the diesel from the tank I then removed it. It was obvious that the tank was rusted badly internally as well as externally and rust particles and general crud had blocked both the tap.

The tank is finished so I now need to find another.

Most of the club members have suggested seeing if I can get a stainless version manufactured.

Having looked at other posts on here I see that there are some plastic replicas available from the likes of Tek-Tank albeit these are hellishly expensive (an eye watering £627 for example).

I'll do some more research but I was wondering if anyone knows of a direct replacement company who can provide at an affordable price.

I was hoping to steer clear of off the shelf tanks as the original has a return, a sump plus lugs to fix to the bilge etc. so I'd prefer an exact replacement where possible.

Thanks.

 

[pvb]

It should be easy (and relatively cheaper) to get a stainless replacement made, contact your local stainless fabricators.

 

[Halo]

They should be able to use the old tank as a pattern and make a new one but would make the job much easier and cheaper if you could create a dimensioned drawing of what you want. Buy the fittings before hand and supply them with the drawing. This will make sure the threads in the tank match. Take the opportunity to put in an easy to operate bottom drain. On my old Westerly 25 you needed to be a midget contortionist to drain the tank bottom - until i fitted a new stainless tank with an extended drain. You will need to get the fabricator onside as they will not make money out of a one off tank job.

 

[VicS]

As the above two posters have said take your old tank together with written instructions and drawings for any modifications you may want to a local stainless steel fabricator.

You dont say where you are, and your profile is silent on the matte,r so difficult for anyone to make specific recommendations or suggestions but Taylor Engineering , if Emsworth is handy for you

 

[Rafiki]

Conks,
Where are you based? If on East Coast there are a couple of Co's whose name regularly comes up.
Actually if you've got the old one out without half dismantling the boat you're onto a winner and shouldn't be too bad a job to copy the old one and slot back in place. In many cases it seems the boat was virtually constructed round the tank.

 

[conks01]

Yes it came out relative easily. I was aiming to run it in to whichever fabricator for them to copy.

I'm in Weston-s-Mare.

 

[jwmagee]

I have just had the same issue with the tank on my pageant. I replaced with:

2-20000 28 litre Plastic Fuel Tank Low Profile

From Ron Hale marine. I blanked off the deck filler and it slides nicely onto the existing mounting area with a strap holding it down and the lip of the gearbox GRP surround thingy. Losing the filler is not an issue as you remove the cover to do your pre-setoff checks anyway.

John

 

[PetiteFleur]

Look at plastic tanks, Vetus, Osculati and Plastimo make them and Tektanks also do a range of standard sizes. Look on ebay and you'll get an idea of sizes and prices. I used a Plastimo tank on my boat to replace a rusty steel tank.

 

[William_H]

I would consider a plastic outboard fuel tank. They come in all sizes from 10litres to about 80 litres here is one on oz ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/i/113763707636?chn=ps. The beauty of the portable tank is easy removal for filling and more important to clean out to avert fuel bug. ol'will

 

[Bajansailor]

We used a standard plastic 6 gallon outboard fuel tank - you do have to run a return line to it though. I ran it to a spigot bonded in to the filler cap.