Fuel Bug, Fuel Doctor, Fuel fer thought?

Kawasaki

Kawasaki

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Sorry peeps this is Boring.
However.

Man with a Sealine S 30 something 1989 Vintage.
Has filtration probs.
All filters etc changed.
Looks like a case of the Bug or a Sh%tty fuel tank.

Now a few Years ago, Me mate with a 27ft Aquastar had gungy filters.
'Fuel Doctor' was organised and 'centrifuged' the fuel.

Boat was sold some Months later (other reason not fuel etc) so I don't know for certain that the Fix was good.

I also have a fuel mucky prob.
Not sure yet what My prob is, could be degredation of the rubber fuel pipes.
I have 'bits' arriving in the Racor separators.
I need to check that out first soon.

I suggested Fuel Doctor (the system of cleaning not the additive) to The Sealine man.

Thinking this way.
If I need a tank clean, perhaps We could kill two birds etc.

The Question is.

Anybody used the Firm 'Fuel Doctor' or www.essolube.co.uk as it were.


Or any other reccomendations for such a Cure.

Tank removal/ cleaning is a bit awkward, as in most Mobos.

Oh and by the way.
After Me mate had His tank cleaned by 'Fuel Doctor' He gace me a tub of their stuff.
'Stick this in Mate and all will be well'

So I did.

Prior to adding the stuff I had no probs.

About 20 refills and additve adds I have!

Not saying at the Mo that the stuff has caused a prob.
My rubber fuel line bits are 24 years old.
It looks like bits of 24 year old stuff that are arriving in me Racors.Gawd this simple request is becoming boring to Me.
Never mind You Guys.

So who or what recommendations Please

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Change fuel lines ... canot be that long, so should be relatively cheap ....

Also see if you can get access to the filler line ... from deck fitting to tank ... this dries out more than the fuel lines, so could be de-laminating.

Pick whichever is the easiest and do that first and see if it gets better... ( KIS ).
 
I'd empty your filter out, into a glass, then have a good look at it. Then get yer fingers on the black bits, and see if there squishy or hard, if hard, probably rubber, or pipe. If squishy, probably bug. How much water in the filter?? If you got bug, you also will have water, but maybe not much.

I used to use and sell Soltron on the forum yonks ago, before the shops started selling it. Duno if you can still get it, but there will be other stuff. Best way to get rid of water, is take the bung out the bottom /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif but stick yer thumb over hole and replace with a tap, then peace of pipe, then another tap in the bilge, open top tap, close the other one. Bash about a bit. Now when you see water has filled the pipe, clear pipe. "obvious." Empty pipe, and start again.

Or just go look at the Mucky Farter system. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Other wise, stick the snake oil in. Mind I dont think it will help with rubber. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Ah! didn';t think of the filler line!
Was gonna sort the rubber fuel bits anyway.

What the F does (KIS) mean?
Hope I don't think it means what I think it means!
 
Didn,t know You were Saltron agent.
Would have put You down as more of a Klingon!

'Klingon ter yer Cash Lad's ther'es a Credit Crunch ahead'!
Sorry couldn,t resist.

Thanks for the advice ref the squishy bits.
I hadn,t really squished them properly.
I thought they were 'rubbery' , I will have to check again.
Did the glass check bit, there did not seem to be water present.

There does not seem to be a 'bung' in the tank.
Was on me last boat.
Well, after I fitted one.
Used to draw a cupfull off now and again to check the stuff.

Don't think the Snake will fix.
Oh well, another dive into the Black Hole might show some light.
I don't believe I just said that /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hey Skip,

What about a new in-line filter in the line just before the injector pump? Not as a permanant solution, just to see if it collects anything, perhaps the fuel cleaner stuff as disturbed some residue in the tank and/or pipes
 
nah, you're thinking about kiss (... suspect you're male, and I tend to be attracted to the female gender)......

KIS = Keep It Simple

KISS - keep It Simple Stupid (or Stupid Simple ... make your pick..).
 
Thanks for the input Philliz.

Prior to the fuel pump, in fact prior to anything is a glass bowl type Racon filter gadgett.

The prob/ symptom I suffer is a lack of max revs and smoke.
When I check the glass bowl thinghy there is garbage in the bowl.
Which is Before the pump.

But thanks, I see where you coming from.
 
Black smoke??

Lack of rev's on those Volvos, may be a clogged exhaust bend ... seen this on the 40 series where it has rusted close at the place where the exhaust meets the raw water cooling system... Over pressure in the exhaust leads to reduction in RPM ... and will eventually lead to overheating as you cannot get the waterflow.... Simple to check with 4 screws on the bend + the raw water exit hose clamp...
 
My exhaust is Ok. I have fitted a new elbow only 40 hours ago.
But My man has AD 41 B's.

A quick poke about Yesterday and it looks like the 'Elbows' are pretty new.

His prob is loads of black smoke above 2300 RPM
I think He has The Bug?
 
Black smoke = over fuel, ... could be a result of lack of air...

41's .... airfilter, turbo etc .... how's the connector hoses between turbo & intercooler ??

Personally I'd suspect the turbocharger ... tends to "rust" a bit so will not swivel freely ....... = lack of air = black smoke

try to take off air filter and see if you can make turbine swivel freely ... any restrictions indicate troubles with bearings or housing... then need re-build or new (exchange?)
 
Yep, understood.
Only eyeballed that area.

History information.
The Sealine has sat on Lake Widneremere for 12 months.
On the Hard for a further 6.
Further information.
I am bereft of smokes.
Tarra, the Spa shuts in a Mo!
 
I used Fuel Doctor (essolube) on the 5000 ltr heating oil tank at home when I found the lid had cracked and allowed litre and litres of water in. Cam along and job done in 2 hrs. Beautiful clean fuel. Water extracted, and about a handfull of slimy horrid brown/black bug.
 
Fuel additives that profess to clean have one distinct disadvantage :

They lift all that crud that has lain in tank bottom quite happy. Boat moves around in waves etc. - away it goes down the fuel pick-ups.
Rubber lines may also not like the cleaners as they are based on solvents - whatever fancy name they want to give them.

As to other additives - they all have a surfactant of some description to keep them dispersed in the fuel. This based again on solvents.

Over use can lead to problems in its own right. I would normally advise sparing use of additives AFTER tanks and lines are cleaned to KEEP them clean.

One additive that I personally frown on is any form of water dispersant - this increases the density of the fuel passed to the injection pump / injectors and adversely affects performance. Added to various retail shelf additives increasing corrosion - this water can add also in form of sulphuric acid from any sulphur in the fuel etc.

I know it doesn't help original poster - but thought relevant.

Before the "Chemists" start - I've purposely kept the language / explanation simple to be understood by all.
 
Thanks Philliz and Refueler.

When I started 'dosing' the thought of disturbing old crud did pass my mind.

I thought I was being a bit too wary and thought it best to add.

Funny enough, I come from a Motorbike/Motortrade background and have always poo pooed additives!!!
Doh!
Thanks Guys for your input.
I think I can sort meself out.
Still not sure what to do about My Sealine friend,.
Have heard varying reports about so called fixers of fuel.

Still not conviced who is the best /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Additives have their place ... I wouldn't waste a whole load of dosh on them if not. But they are professional additives formulated and used strictly for specific purposes.
Snake oils in the Retail Market we have nothing to do with as they are in our eyes the poor relation and basically ineffective compared to ours. We are also careful to ensure that any additives used are compatible with any additive already present in the product.
 
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