Forepeak Mattresses

dolabriform

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freewheeling.world
Hi all

We're planning to replace the bunk cushions in the forepeak with a memory foam mattress, and debating how best to make the sections.
Currently it consists of two sections split around the hip level, which means our hips sink into the gap during the night which is rather uncomfortable. Of course the split is aligned with the lockers underneath for convenience, but admittedly we don't go in them often.
Our options are:

1. Keep the split where it is.
2. Put a split down the middle so we get a mattress either side
3. Don't bother with a split and make it a single mattress.

We're wondering what others have done / would have done differently? Thoughts greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks

David
 
Hi all

We're planning to replace the bunk cushions in the forepeak with a memory foam mattress, and debating how best to make the sections.
Currently it consists of two sections split around the hip level, which means our hips sink into the gap during the night which is rather uncomfortable. Of course the split is aligned with the lockers underneath for convenience, but admittedly we don't go in them often.
Our options are:

1. Keep the split where it is.
2. Put a split down the middle so we get a mattress either side
3. Don't bother with a split and make it a single mattress.

We're wondering what others have done / would have done differently? Thoughts greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks

David
2
 
My forepeak mattress is option 2, but I have four massive lockers under the bunk and that gives easy access.
 
I'd go with 2.

FWIW, I bought a memory foam mattress from Ikea and chopped it up with the bread knife. Worked well, but I never got on with the memory foam. I move around a fair bit in the night, and it seemed to want to lock me into position.
 
Mine split fore and aft. The foam is some 4" firm foam and then a memory foam layer, stuck to the firm foam. The combinations works well and is really comfy.
 
A couple of thoughts:-
1) buy a memory foam mattress topper from IKEA and cut with electric carving knife and place on top of existing mattress. This makes berth both thicker but also warmer but moving on memory foam of say 3inches can be of putting for some;
2) Put in new mattress in 2 pieces But make the pieces split across the beam as opposed to vertically. This is how our mattress splits -. Each piece is quite heavy to lift up to be fair but our mattress is perhaps 4 inches thick with 2 pieces but the advantage is each piece is not so long . In winter we stand each on side when not using cabin of course due to ban on staying on board
 
WP_20210329_09_48_08_Pro (2).jpg
this is the option i went for, to give easy access to the storage underneath, but keeping joins away from pressure points when sleeping.
I wanted pieces i could move around inside the forepeak easily, but the least number of sections. I thought about 2 long sections, but i never need access under the farthest bow, so decided to have that bit as a separate foam that makes the lifting sections more manageable in the confined space.
i managed to cut all 3 sections from 2 rectangles of foam with no wastage, including the angle cuts from the wider sleeping sides down to the narrower base sides. On the 2 large pieces I positioned the cut diagonally in 2planes, and when I flipped the offcut and moved it to the other side it was perfectly bookmatched to the shape of the forepeak. I did the same for the triangle section, cut from a rectangle then glued together. I too used a very sharp carving knife.
i trawled the internet for days for the best price and used Acefoam at Telford, and would use them again if needed. No connection other than a satisfied customer.
 
Dellquay, thank you for a clear description and image. Two questions,
1. What type of foam did you specify?
2. How will you cover the foam?
 
Dellquay, thank you for a clear description and image. Two questions,
1. What type of foam did you specify?
2. How will you cover the foam?
i went for 120mm thick medium density foam, which is nearly too firm for me, in hindsight i could have chosen 90mm medium density and glued 30mm soft density on top, but that would have made cutting more difficult, cutting each piece separately then gluing. I might revisit the idea of gluing an inch of soft foam on top after trying the mattress for a few nights.

i have hade quotes for covering ranging from £126 from a tiny back street upholstery to £360 at a campervan trimmers.
until I get more funds together, i will just be covering with a couple of bed sheets.
 
Thanks for that, I hadn't come across them before.
A sprung mattress would be nice !

Pocket sprung mattresses can be re-shaped by unstitching the sides, removing springs, triming and re-stitching, i did this for my aft cabin mattress, luverly and comfy. I did a little write up on here somewhere, if you can't find it i still have all the pics i took of the project.
 
We have option 2 with a bit of velcro up the side of the hull. If we need to get into the lockers we can slide the squib up the hull and fix it there while in the locker. I had option 1 on my previous boat; after a year around the Atlantic I had very sore hips!
 
I'd avoid memory foam, even hotter than ordinary foam and you get stuck in one position, it's horrible stuff IMHO. If you can live with having a one piece mattrass I'd go for that. Buy a mattrass to your liking and cut to size, so much better after I did the same and I live aboard FT...
 
I'd avoid memory foam, even hotter than ordinary foam and you get stuck in one position, it's horrible stuff IMHO. If you can live with having a one piece mattrass I'd go for that. Buy a mattrass to your liking and cut to size, so much better after I did the same and I live aboard FT...
When I went to buy a mattress in John Lewis a few years ago, the first question they asked me was whether I was a hot or cold sleeper. When I said hot they told me to avoid memory foam. So courses for horses?
 
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