Foot block sheaves

mrangry

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I have two of these foot blocks and the sheaves are broken. I think they are Lewmar but can I get new replacement sheaves or do I need to replace the unit.
 
Depends if you can drift the pin out. Sod's Law dictates that if you can get the pin out, you won't be able to find a sheave the right size and vice versa.

You can get odd size sheaves made from acetal or Delrin rod. There's an outfit in Cornwall who do them.

What does it look like on the other side?
 
I just had two of those (only mine were double ones) nicked. I’ve had to shell out nearly £300 to buy a pair of replacement blocks.

If you end up not being able to replace the sheaves and having to replace the whole thing Selden seem to offer the best value plain bearing cheek blocks. If you’re sitting down you can check the prices of the larger sizes in Wichard… Wichard 200mm HR Double Cheek Roller Block - Virtual Rigger

PS I’ve always known them as ‘cheek blocks’.
 
Depends if you can drift the pin out. Sod's Law dictates that if you can get the pin out, you won't be able to find a sheave the right size and vice versa.

You can get odd size sheaves made from acetal or Delrin rod. There's an outfit in Cornwall who do them.

What does it look like on the other side?
20210608_202743 2.jpg
 
I suspect that the pin will come out with some gentle persuasion from the top. I have replaced sheaves and had to drill the shaft hole out for the pin to go through as the sheaves were from another make.
 
I have identical looking footblocks, mine at least are Lewmar. Bought a pair of sheaves from ebay. Replaced the first and of course a week later the one on the other side disintegrated.

The pin had been forged/peened so I destroyed it getting it out. I thus had to turn a new pin. With a mill you could carefully machine off the bottom of the pin up to the casting.

Posts #17 onwards in the below thread indicate what you are up against.

Lewmar foot block challenge
 
I have ordered a couple of Barton size 4 cheek blocks with backing plates which are slightly bigger but at £22 each probably less hassle than trying to replace sheaves.

Barton Size 4 Plain Block Cheek (BAN04160)
If only they were big enough for our boat... and I can't see what the maximum size line is that they are designed for?
 
I wish I had taken photos before dropping the mast as I now have a load of lines coming from the mast and no idea in which order they were routed back to the cockpit. I do remember that one of these blocks was for the furling line but not sure on the other. I suppose the others that go through both of the four way deck organisers can be can be run back to the clutches in any order really
 
This is I think a Simpson Lawrence block, but very much the same thing; it's off a Sigma 33. Value for money was achieved given the use S33s get and it was renovated recently with a bit of SS bar and bushes inserted into the old pulleys.

33BLK.jpg
 
I wish I had taken photos before dropping the mast as I now have a load of lines coming from the mast and no idea in which order they were routed back to the cockpit. I do remember that one of these blocks was for the furling line but not sure on the other. I suppose the others that go through both of the four way deck organisers can be can be run back to the clutches in any order really
I find that the first sail sorts out the correct order ?
 
I have replaced sheaves in blocks many times. usually you have to drill the top of the pin to remove the peening (spread) so you can bash out the pin. Usually the pin has a shoulder to sit inside the frame to allow the pin to be tightened without squashmng the frame on to the sheave. I overcome this problem with small ss tube spacer cut to length. Tube fits inside the sheave a bolt then fits inside the tube and is tightened up. (frame against the tube. Would need a CS screw head under neath with nylock nut on top. ol'will
 
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