Floor varnish inside the boat

dylanwinter

dylanwinter

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Buckingham
www.keepturningleft.co.uk
I have applied some yacht varnish to the inside of the boat

the tool box step has been varnished. I let it stand for 24 hours - the outside edges and the inside have come out really well - but a day of human traffic had it reduced to gunge - it needed more time to cure. I have used floor varnish at home and it really is trafficable within a few hours

so has anyone used floor varnish inside the boat?

How did it go?
 
Hi Dylan.
that's very annoying indeed!
However I must ask was the boat afloat in the low temperatures recently, or ashore with a bit of warmth from safe heat source?
I feel that low temps combined with high humidity could have caused the problem.
Happily, if you are anywhere south in the UK you will be in shirtsleeves, and perspiring for the next few days or weeks!
So ,by way of encouragement it will probably never happen again if the weather gods allow a decent spring fit -out in seasons to come.
Do let us know the outcome in due course?
 
dylanwinter said:
I have applied some yacht varnish to the inside of the boat

the tool box step has been varnished. I let it stand for 24 hours - the outside edges and the inside have come out really well - but a day of human traffic had it reduced to gunge - it needed more time to cure. I have used floor varnish at home and it really is trafficable within a few hours

so has anyone used floor varnish inside the boat?

How did it go?
Click to expand...

Inside the boat i used Johnstone's polyurethane varnish and its extremely hard wearing and amazingly very non-slip.
 
I use International Compass on Gladys floorboards... BUT... I apply it when leaving the boat on a Sunday afternoon and don't touch it again until the following weekend. Look on the wear as saving you the need to rub down :cool:
 
I tend to use water-based floor seal on the saloon and cabin floors which are laid oak parquet.
Less in the way of volatile fumes and very hard wearing once dry.
It is also much less skiddy than a varnish having a satin finish.
Everything else, interior teak and American cherry lining, gets treated to Le Tonk.
 
Ronseal Diamond Hard really is the stuff, it works really well, dries quickly without smell and is water based. I used two pot poly. on one section and I have to say the Diamond Hard is as good and so much easier to use.
 
I used cheap satin finish "Yacht Varnish" from Wilkinsons; it has worked perfectly even on the high traffic area at the foot of the companionway. however, I took the floorboards home to strip and varnish, so they had ample time to dry in a (reasonably) warm and dry area. It's on its third season, at least.
 
dylanwinter said:
I have applied some yacht varnish to the inside of the boat

the tool box step has been varnished. I let it stand for 24 hours - the outside edges and the inside have come out really well - but a day of human traffic had it reduced to gunge - it needed more time to cure. I have used floor varnish at home and it really is trafficable within a few hours

so has anyone used floor varnish inside the boat?

How did it go?
Click to expand...

Ronseal floor varnish is the stuff to use. Easy to apply - 3 coats with one hour between them. Used on heavy duty applications such as school halls. similar products available from other manufacturers, but ronseal widely available from DIY sheds.
 
Tranona said:
Ronseal floor varnish is the stuff to use. Easy to apply - 3 coats with one hour between them. Used on heavy duty applications such as school halls. similar products available from other manufacturers, but ronseal widely available from DIY sheds.
Click to expand...

I have a boat thats interior is nearly all varnished wood .Can I use Ronseal Diamond hard floor varnish on doors as well as the floor ?
 
rtboss1 said:
I have a boat thats interior is nearly all varnished wood .Can I use Ronseal Diamond hard floor varnish on doors as well as the floor ?
Click to expand...

You would need to run a test. Floor varnishes are by design intended for horizontal surfaces and may be formulated so that gravity eliminates your brush marks. On a vertical surface they might therefore be a bit too fluid and prone to runs and sags, hence the need to try it before committing to doing the job.
 
I've used 2-pack varnish after scraping and sanding the floorboards. Still goes well after 9 years. The varnish version I used was 'for stairs', it contains extremely fine microbeads. Result: a satin shine, but non-slip.
 
Gladys said:
I use International Compass on Gladys floorboards... BUT... I apply it when leaving the boat on a Sunday afternoon and don't touch it again until the following weekend. Look on the wear as saving you the need to rub down :cool:
Click to expand...

The way you phrased your post suggests that you have to do this job frequently i.e. the varnish is not very hard-wearing...?:)
 
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