Fixing locker lid to transom

[davidpbo]

I am as some people know building a locker, and would welcome suggestions or comments with regard to fixing the lid to the transom.

The lid is supported by the front across the forward edge, and on either side (Other than by my knee).

I don't really want to epoxy it to the transom in case it has to come off in the future. I am thinking of sikaflex and screwing through the piece of wood mounted underneath. There is not enough gap between the back of the cockpit and the back of the boat for a hand to get up to fix a nut to a bolt.

The lid will be trodden and sat on but a lot of the load should be on the front and sides.

Your thoughts please.

 

[djblanc]

Suggest that you fix nuts and washers to a piece of flat plate with hole in by means of either welding or 2pack weld repair kit, available from DIY stores. This can then be manouvered into position and then fixed with bolts.

 

[robstracey]

I would just bolt it on with stainless bolts.

If you want to remove it in the future you can use gelcoat filler to fill the holes, sant it down with fine wet and dry on a block to flat it off, gradually getting finer, the T-Cut. I have done this in my headlining and on deck, and it is invisible to all except people who are looking, and looking very carefully. Sikaflex is good, but i wouldnt be too sure about bonding it to smooth GRP, it would probably need a key, which sould mean scratches in your transom anyway.

(if i knew how to to post pictures, i would post one of my fillings to prove how invisible it is)

 

[davidpbo]

[ QUOTE ]
I would just bolt it on with stainless bolts.

[/ QUOTE ]

I can't get to the other side of the rear of the cockpit to fit nuts. I am thinking wood screws or self tappers though the wood into the transom. The sikaflex is to provide a bit of additional support and to stop water ingress down the back.

 

[colvic987]

Build a wooden frame which will sit in the space, then you are able to fix the panels onto the frame, using wood/epoxy or stainless screws, you can then fix the built box into the space, using either sealant you can then remove easily if you are not certain that it will stay forever, or fix it permanently. self tappers tend to rip at the fibreglass , maybe you could use small blocks of wood epoxied onto the grp floor which you can then screw onto to fix the frame...

 

[nigelmercier]

[ QUOTE ]
I can't get to the other side of the rear of the cockpit to fit nuts...

[/ QUOTE ]

How about plasterboard wall fixings?

 

[davidpbo]

I had decided not to do that at it would not accommodate what I wanted in the space it would have to fit into.

 

[atelford]

Rivet ?

 

[davidpbo]

[ QUOTE ]
Rivet ?

[/ QUOTE ]

Difficult if not impossible to get backing washer on reverse side. Without them I don't think there would be any more strength than screwing into fibreglass.

 

[fireball]

I'll repeat DJ54's suggestion:
[ QUOTE ]

Suggest that you fix nuts and washers to a piece of flat plate with hole in by means of either welding or 2pack weld repair kit, available from DIY stores. This can then be manouvered into position and then fixed with bolts.

[/ QUOTE ]

Assuming you have a degree of access to that back void you could make up a T piece backing plate or just 2 longer backing plates then you should be able to get them held in place whilst you put bolts through from the front side.....