Fitting windows in canvass?

Tim Good

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Hello all.

I recently made a boom tent with some nice blue waterproof canvass that matches my main cover. My machine coped with the turned edges fine but it won't go through the thick poly windows I have cut out for it.

So I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for fitting with glue and maybe seam tape?

Any advice on this, the type of glue and tape? I think it could make a tidy finish if the tape was blue also.

Thoughts?
 
Come on guys... I find it hard to believe that the mighty power of the PBO forum doesn't have the answer for this one!
 
Guy I havent got a sewing machine that will do it. Its too thick. I need advice on glue and/or some kind of seam tape weld?
 
We have sewn windows into canvas several times using a domestic sewing machine. Is your needle sharp and are you using the right type? We find ones for leather or jeans material cope reasonably well with these thick folds and unusual materials.
 
Perhaps worth talking to Hawke House, purveyors of such materials for their advice on what is available. Not sure gluing in widows is common practice, although MoodySabre says his are. Would think it is a specialist process so may not be suitable for DIY use - but you have to ask the supplier.
 
We have sewn windows into canvas several times using a domestic sewing machine. Is your needle sharp and are you using the right type? We find ones for leather or jeans material cope reasonably well with these thick folds and unusual materials.

Ditto...well, not from me, but the missus.
But I do know a good tip for replacing windows, which avoids all the grief of wrinkles and distortion: leave the old window in situ; stick the new one in place with thin double-sided tape; sew the new one's edges over the old one's; then cut out the old one. I was told it was a doddle, although fairly hard work on the domestic machine.
 
Guy I havent got a sewing machine that will do it. Its too thick. I need advice on glue and/or some kind of seam tape weld?

I agree with Vyv, pretty well any domestic machine should go through two layers of canvas and one of clear material. I think it is well worth looking into needle size, and indeed needle type (some of them have a groove that the thread runs is so that you are dragging less thread through the hole outside the diameter that the needle has punched. A bit of research and trial and error may save you a lot of disappointment with glued windows.
 
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Thinking about your problem ,would it be possible to stitch the plastic flat onto the canvas,having marked the area to be stitched so that only 2 thicknesses are stitched, but with 1 row of stitches, zigzag or plain. Trim the plastic to its finished size plus about 1".
Turn the canvas over and again stitch the inside of the hood and stitch within the 1" border so that only 2 thicknesses are to be sewn. A glue such as Copydex might work as a sealant if required. (normally used for sealing carpet edging)

ianat182
 
Not sure if this will help but it may give you a lead. I know someone who needed the rear screen on their Audi cabriolet replacing. The oem replacement came with a heater wire fitted to the perimeter. Once positioned power is applied and it uses some form of hot melt glue to fix it in place. Clever.
 
I agree with Vyv, pretty well any domestic machine should go through two layers of canvas and one of clear material. I think it is well worth looking into needle size, and indeed needle type (some of them have a groove that the thread runs is so that you are dragging less thread through the hole outside the diameter that the needle has punched. A bit of research and trial and error may save you a lot of disappointment with glued windows.

+1
 
Sticking or sewing. I would ensure that the top edge was INSIDE the canvas and the BOTTOM edge outside. Otherwise the wate rruns to the 'proud' edge and then works through ( especially when there are needle holes!!)

So how's it going to cross over halfway?

I would suggest plastic inside the canvas all the way. Looks neat, and the unfavourable edge is near the bottom / outside of the tent where any drips are less of a problem. Then use the right type of thread which expands when wet to fill the holes (not sure what that is, but it's what they used on our cockpit tent).

Pete
 
For strength they'll need stitching in not glue - it could be a case of wrong material for the job as you can get different grades (thickness) of clear window material, might be a case for changing the window material. Most machines with the right needle will go through two pieces of material, use silicone spray to lubricate the leather point needles and material.
 
I have just done exactly the same job. I took the canvass and plastic window material to our local upholsterer and she did it the same day. Simple and cheap.
 
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