Fitting Towable Genoa Cars

Gixer

Gixer

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 Nov 2015
Messages
1,122
Visit site
Following on from a thread I posted ages ago I've managed to get the below for a absolute steal.

IMG_9815.JPG

I have a couple of questions before fitting.

The maximum control line (not genoa sheet) they can take is 8mm. My boat is only 27f and although the genoa is quite big I'm thinking of using 6mm line, will this be ok or is thicker better?
I have a really long track with plenty of room so am thinking of leaving the old pin type genoa cars fitted. Could be good for emergencies or for a control line if I ever get a spinnaker. Any thoughts?
To fit the track ends I think I have to drill and tap the track and then fit a bolt. Is this the best way?

Thanks guys.
 
6mm will be okay, but more likely to hurt hands when pulled under load. 8 mm would be kinder to your hands.

Leave the old cars in place and park at one end if that is convenient to you. Likely will not be suitable for a spinnaker.

I thought that the fixed pulleys were secured through the track bolts. Alternatively, you could buy a "plunger stop" for the track size and secure between a pair of them.

Check Barton web site for "plunger stops"
 
Gixer said:
Following on from a thread I posted ages ago I've managed to get the below for a absolute steal.

View attachment 195990

I have a couple of questions before fitting.

The maximum control line (not genoa sheet) they can take is 8mm. My boat is only 27f and although the genoa is quite big I'm thinking of using 6mm line, will this be ok or is thicker better?
I have a really long track with plenty of room so am thinking of leaving the old pin type genoa cars fitted. Could be good for emergencies or for a control line if I ever get a spinnaker. Any thoughts?
To fit the track ends I think I have to drill and tap the track and then fit a bolt. Is this the best way?

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
6mm will be fine if you use Dynema. Don't be tempted to go bigger, you'll just introduce unnecessary friction. Fit the most amount of purchases as you can. Think mine are probably 5mm on a 32 foot performance boat, we move them around under load fine.
 
Hey! Thanks for the questions.

1: For your 27ft boat with a big genoa, 6mm control line should work fine with those Barton blocks (rated for 8mm max). It’s lighter and good for moderate conditions, but 8mm would be tougher for heavy winds. I’d start with 6mm and switch to 8mm if you notice stretching or wear.

2: Keeping them is a great idea—perfect for emergencies or a spinnaker line later. Just make sure they don’t get in the way of the new track; space them out or remove if they cause issues.

3: Drilling and tapping with stainless steel bolts (M5 or M6) is the best way—add marine sealant to avoid corrosion. You could try self-tapping screws, but tapping is more secure. Pre-drill a pilot hole, tap carefully, and test the fit before tightening.

Let me know how it fits!
 
flaming said:
6mm will be fine if you use Dynema. Don't be tempted to go bigger, you'll just introduce unnecessary friction. Fit the most amount of purchases as you can. Think mine are probably 5mm on a 32 foot performance boat, we move them around under load fine.
Click to expand...
Yes, this. I have something smaller than 6mm, possibly 5mm but it is dyneema on a 30ft boat with a 110% Genoa. Never had any problems- cars and lines been fitted around 12 years now.
 
Sorry another question.

I was mocking it all up today while drifting about and am thinking of using Spinlock PXR jammers for the control lines. Reading up online there are cases of those slipping with Dyneema and high loads.
What do you guys use as jammers?
 
I have those Barton end fittings for 25mm track on 10m yacht. I have 6mm line (do not think it is dyneema but fitted by previous owner). Works fine, although not enough purchase for using under much load. I would be interested where I could get the proper cars for a steal!
 
Gixer said:
Sorry another question.

I was mocking it all up today while drifting about and am thinking of using Spinlock PXR jammers for the control lines. Reading up online there are cases of those slipping with Dyneema and high loads.
What do you guys use as jammers?
Click to expand...
The loads really aren’t that high, in yacht terms. The sheet loads are an order of magnitude more, probably our main halyard load is more.
 
…just to add - an alternative to sliding cars are low friction rings on genny sheets lead down and forward to deck and then aft via blocks to cockpit. Used like barber-haulers to change sheeting angle.
 
Those look like the absolute business.

Drilling and tapping the rail ought to do fine, there's enough thickness. Just control the depth very well and use the kind of plug tap without a pointy end so you can get enough thread engagement. (if you only have a pointy one, you can flat the end on a bench grinder).

I don't think I'd leave the old cars on the rail, in the way, unless I had a very specific fairly regular use (can you really get them to a good position for a spinnaker?). I'd put them below in the "stuff I hope never to need" box or take them home.
 
Just to finish off this thread, fitted the towable cars today. Went for different cleats in the end. Hopefully I can test them out tomorrow!

IMG_2025-08-02-202702.jpegIMG_2025-08-02-202728.jpeg
 
Looks good. Just out of interest, how do you move cars aft? Is the force of sail on sheet enough to move car back? I read somewhere of strong bungy cord being used to pull car back when ‘forward’ control line is released.
 
Thanks, I've heard mixed things about needing to pull the car back. I'm going to try it without a bungy, but happy to add one if needs be.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top