Fitting new thru hulls

mrplastic

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I'd like some advice on fitting new thru hulls.

I know I shouldn't over-tighten them to avoid squeezing the sealant out, but not sure just how to gauge that. I guess I should tighten the ball valves before finally tighten the fixing nuts but how do I stop the fittings turning as I do that? I can see it would be easier with an assistant holding a suitable tool in the fitting inlet to stop it turning but would like to be able to do thus single handed. As ever, sound advice would be welcomed and appreciated.
 
A big nut to turn up against the ball valve enables you to fix it firmly in any position you like without trying to turn the thruhull.
 
I can see it would be easier with an assistant holding a suitable tool in the fitting inlet to stop it turning but would like to be able to do thus single handed. As ever, sound advice would be welcomed and appreciated.

I did it singlehanded, using a home-made tool (a socket of the right size to fit inside the through-hull, with 2 slots ground into it with an angle grinder). I inserted the tool outside the boat, put a long socket handle in the tool, and taped it to a stepladder so that the end of the handle would press on a step when the fitting inside the boat was turned.

As for the sealant, you should put sealant in, tighten fairly loosely, leave it 24 hours or so to cure, then tighten finally.
 
Thanks for the tips .
In answer oldsaltoz I am simply replacing as is. I am aware that I could use special through bolted flanges but figure that for my needs the original fixing system will suffice. As a matter of interest does the RCD cover the installation methods for thru hull fittings' does anyone actually know if it insists on additional support methods?
 
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