First go servicing an MD2010

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Decided to have a go myself this year after having the engine (MD2010) serviced professionally the last 2 years.

I am quite comfortable doing the work, but just wanted to see if I should consider an aftermarket set of filters rather than the MD2010 service kit from Volvo?

I consider that I need:

  • Impeller & Gasket
  • Oil Filter
  • Pre Fuel Filter
  • Engine Fuel Filter
  • Oil (anything recommended?)

Any makes to avoid here? Or is it simpler to bite the bullet and pay Volvo prices?
 
Suitable lubricant for the first item, and ( different? ) lubricant for the O-rings of the others.

Spare screws for the impeller cover ( I replaced the 'chewed' brass slot-heads with s/s knurled-heads, which had an aperture for a small hex Allen key, to get a better seal than finger-tight. )

I have one of these, probably for an MD2010. It's a seal of some sort. If you want it, send me your address.

IMG_4341_zpsjjhvmhlw.jpg


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I am sure a few engineers will be along soon by I was advised by a well regarded engineer in our marina that filters could be sourced more cheaply from motor parts retailers. In the past I have ordered from Keyparts who also seem reliable so you might check out their website or give them a call and they might know the score. If it's your first time maybe you could find a local engineer at marina to tutor through process and show a few tips . The worse part to me seems getting the diesel to flow again by pumping through to remove air and making sure the filter gaskets don't leak but I'm no engineer.
 
Check also the air filter and replace if necessary. Same applies for drive belt.
What about the gear box oil (ATF)?
When was the last time you changed the coolant (do this every 2-3 years, not annually)?
 
Bleeding these engines only works when the engine is in the correct position, which is when the yellow mark on the spindle thingy is lined up with the other mark.

You may also have a vacuum break that needs servicing. If you have a saildrive using synthetic, you will need spare O rings for the filler cap.
 
cmedsailor said:
Thanks Vic. Though I still haven't understood what it is. Hopefully the MD2030D which my boat has does not have it....
Click to expand...

Its the valve in the raw water anti syphon loop. ( Same part ITYWF for all versions of MD 2010/40 series )

There should be one ( although maybe not the type above) if the water injection point into the exhaust is not well above ( 6" to 10" according to different sources) the water line
 
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VicS said:
Its the valve in the raw water anti syphon loop.

There should be one ( although maybe not the type above) if the water injection point into the exhaust is not well above ( 6" to 10" according to different sources) the water line
Click to expand...

Is it the same thing as the vetus air vent?

Edit: OK, I did some reading and if I understood it correct some engines (not mine) have this vacuum valve connected in the raw water hose between the sea water filter and the seawater pump.
 
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cmedsailor said:
Is it the same thing as the vetus air vent?

Edit: OK, I did some reading and if I understood it correct some engines (not mine) have this vacuum valve connected in the raw water hose between the sea water filter and the seawater pump.
Click to expand...

Yes Vetus make an air vents that do the same job. In fact they offer valved types and types that pee water continuously over board or into a cockpit drain

The typical location in the system is immediately before the water injection point but in some cases ( such as the MD 2010 - 40 series) this is not practical so it is located in the pump discharge plumbing.
It must not be between the inlet strainer and the pump or it will allow air to be sucked in while the engine is running.
 
Thanks folks, inwardly digesting the info.

Just adding for my own reference the part numbers:

Oil Filter: 861473
Fuel Filter: 861477
Impellor: 3586494
OIl: Mineral SAE15W40 API CG-4 ACEA E3
 
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cmedsailor said:
Check also the air filter and replace if necessary. Same applies for drive belt.
What about the gear box oil (ATF)?
When was the last time you changed the coolant (do this every 2-3 years, not annually)?
Click to expand...

Air Filter, good call - that's the little square box on the top I think.
Drive Belt last year and carry 2 x spares after one let go on me.
Transmission in the saildrive... hmmm - not sure.
Coolant - might need replacing.
 
I now service our Volvo MD 2010. Your servicing seems to be limited to changing filters and oil.

If it has not been done for at least two years you should drain and flush out the closed loop cooling system and heat exchanger.

Replace the antifreeze.

It acts as a corrosion inhibitor and needs to be replaced at least every two years.

Check out any rubber pipes have not collapsed and ........

Look out for a blockage of the 15mm aluminium spigot on the port side of engine on the heat exchanger manifold..

It is not shown in the exploded parts diagram but it is the way part no's 11 and 12 are connected to the manifold.
https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746800-26-189.aspx

This can cause overheating even when you have: Checked the exhaust elbow, Cleaned the heat exchanger, replaced the impeller and wasted three weekends of good sailing weather.

Can you guess how I know this?

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?439450-Volbvo-MD-2010-D-(2002-vintage-)Overheat-Alarm

Steve
 
My exhaust elbow was replaced last year as part of the grown up service (obviously not the sorry state of affairs I laughably referred to as a "service") and I suspect that the coolant was changed too - although I can't see it being a huge job and may be worth doing again (the coolant not the elbow).
 
As Volvo don't make filters, all filters are "aftermarket", but some are labelled Volvo.
Buy good quality filters from a reputable manufacturer, at a fraction of the badged filters often made by the same people.
 
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