Filling worn screw holes

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richardm47

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Well my folding cockpit table has been re-varnished and will look great. But the problem is that the screws for the hinges are not secure because the screw holes are worn.

First photo shows the top of the table with 4 brass hinges which are all fine. Other photos show underneath of the table with the 2 problem hinges. You can see multiple screw holes where a PO has tried to fix the problem.

I can't use fatter screws because their bigger heads will prevent the hinges from closing properly. So I'm thinking I'll try to fill the holes up with something strong, then re-drill new holes in that material.

My question is - what filler material would you use for that job? It'll all be hidden under the table so cosmetic appearance doesn't matter much. I've got some Sikaflex 291 left over from another job but maybe that is too flexible? What would you do?
 
I would use Rawplug Woodfiller available from B7Q etc. and any decent DIY place. You will be able to buy something similar that is probably called "Marine" Woodfiller at any chandlery at a minimum of twice the cost!!
 
Try and epoxy glue some slivers of wood into the holes and cut them off flush with a chisel or craft knife, then redrill but using a small drill so the screws go in very tight. I've even used matchsticks in the past but something a bit harder might be better.
 
Robin said:
Try and epoxy glue some slivers of wood into the holes and cut them off flush with a chisel or craft knife, then redrill but using a small drill so the screws go in very tight. I've even used matchsticks in the past but something a bit harder might be better.
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I agree - thickened epoxy is the way ahead if the screws are 'just loose' and screw into the epgy and allow to go off. A very light smear of grease on the screws would ensure that you can get them out again otherwise you are into heating the screw with a soldering iron to undo it. Otherwise glue some slivers of wood into the holes - again with epoxy.

If they are really bad, then drill out to plug size and glue plugs in with epoxy. You can get quite small plugs, so you wouldn't see them under the fittings/hinges.
 
Thanks for all suggestions. Could I query the dowelling route? No problem to drill out and glue, and I have hardwoods dowels in several sizes. But I'm doubtful that screws installed into the end grain of dowels would hold long-term. I've had bad experiences with screws put into the end grain of soft wood - they work their way loose pretty quick. In your experience, do screws put into the end grain of hardwood fare much better?
 
I'm doubtful that screws installed into the end grain of dowels would hold long-term
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I think I would have the same concerns.

Rather than drilling out the holes I think I might feel inclined to try a variation of the matchstick method using slivers of hardwood rather than matchsticks.

But are "nutserts" a possibility and then small countersunk machine screws rather than woodscrews.

It looks as though you might be able to fit larger hinges, with larger screws, and offset slightly from the present hinge position. maybe also combine this with nutserts

Cannot see how thick the table top is, but I suspect lack of thickness may become the problem in fitting any heavier fasteners
 
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VicS said:
Rather than drilling out the holes I think I might feel inclined to try a variation of the matchstick method using slivers of hardwood rather than matchsticks.
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A variation on this shown to me by the man who fixed my chainsaw. Much of it is held together by self-tappers into GRP moulding, in which the holes had become enlarged. He used short lengths of the nylon line used in strimmers, something like 2 mm diameter. It works superbly well and I have used it successfully since in many applications, including enlarged holes in hardwood.
 
You can make your own plugs with a Screwfix core borer. They come in sets of three for a few quid, and you can choose your bit of timber for end grain or cross grain, the latter ideal for making good old holes in your teak fittings with plugs that follow the grain of the original.
 
richardm47 said:
Thanks for all suggestions. Could I query the dowelling route? No problem to drill out and glue, and I have hardwoods dowels in several sizes. But I'm doubtful that screws installed into the end grain of dowels would hold long-term. I've had bad experiences with screws put into the end grain of soft wood - they work their way loose pretty quick. In your experience, do screws put into the end grain of hardwood fare much better?
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The fluted Ramin dowels sold in the sheds or left over from putting together MFI flatpacks. Drill pilot holes and the screws will hold fine. No need for epoxy - polyurethane glue such as Balcaton works well with flutes.
 
Well I've done it a few times with no problems. If it was a hinge that was constantly being opened and closed maybe it could work lose. I did it to pull in a scarfed join on my rubbing strake and it seems ok.
 
Just reading through your inputs about my problem gave me a completely new idea. Ditch the 2 separate hinges and fit a full-width bit of piano hinge instead. Ok that'll be more holes than a Swiss cheese. But I think it might work best. I'll probably still fill the existing holes - with hardwoods bits and resin I think. Then there's a backstop if the piano hinge idea doesn't pan out. Thanks again for all your help - great forum this!
 
Epoxy Is Fast, Easy and A Permanent Repair - Better Than The Original

RichardM47 I have had exactly the same problem with my cockpit table. I just poured in some neat epoxy and filled the hole. Not as easy as it sounds but the next attempt was with a bent open paper clip. I just poked away as the epoxy went in until the hole was full. Neat Epoxy is thin but, its still viscous enough to stop it running freely into small holes.

For the holes that were just worn out I worked a screw in and out to squeeze Epoxy into the wood fibre, then I just refilled the hole again, wiped it flush and let it set. On the bigger over size holes I let it set.

A bradawl was used to make a dent in the top of the set epoxy prior to drilling a pilot hole, but to be honest, when it set off, there was a natural concave surface.

The above makes it sound like a bit of a malarky but it was very quick to do with one small mix in the bottom of 1/4 pint milk carton, this included the time finding the paper clip and screwing in to squeeze the Epoxy.

When I assembled the table the screws gripped strongly and I suspect that the holes wont wear out as fast as bare wood holes; better than the original.

A tip for hole filling with Epoxy where the hole is visible. If you have been sanding keep the wood dust and mix that with your neat Epoxy. It can give a very effective colour match. If applying gelcoat to repair small dents then collect the dust from any sanding of the old gelcoat, that too can provide a very good match, especially on faded white gelcoat.

Hope this helps.
 
I like the epoxy route, if you buy a pack of microfibres that you mix with the epoxy you will never have to worry about refixing in the future.
 
Sounds to me that the screws are too small for the loads. I'd drill right through and fit machine screws with nuts - recessed if necessary. That would give a much stronger fixing with the same size screw heads.
 
Well I've started the job. I went for the fill with epoxy option. 28 screw-holes filled up with epoxy a few mins ago. In the photos,you can just see the epoxied holes. Made a bit of a mess roundabout, so I set the buzzer for 30 mins, to remind me to clean the excess off the surrounding flat surfaces when its nearly set. Used some araldite-like stuff that's been in the garage for years. Fingers crossed, this had better work!
 
richardm47 said:
My question is - what filler material would you use for that job? It'll all be hidden under the table so cosmetic appearance doesn't matter much. I've got some Sikaflex 291 left over from another job but maybe that is too flexible? What would you do?
Click to expand...

If you fill the existing holes with wooden dowel you will be able to put new screws in the same holes. The dowel fill expand as you put a screw in and it will end up as solid as new wood.

Boo2
 
vyv_cox said:
A variation on this shown to me by the man who fixed my chainsaw. Much of it is held together by self-tappers into GRP moulding, in which the holes had become enlarged. He used short lengths of the nylon line used in strimmers, something like 2 mm diameter. It works superbly well and I have used it successfully since in many applications, including enlarged holes in hardwood.
Click to expand...

Top tip

Just done this on the pad for the companion way bolt and it works a treat. Cheap as well:)
 
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