Fibreglass Recessed Moulding - Fairline Targa

paulcadd

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I currently have a Fairline Targa 27, where the battery isolator switches are located down in the engine compartment, and to reach these necessitates moving the rear bench swab, lifting and securing the bench moulding in order to raise the engine hatch.
In order to attempt to make access to these switches easier I am considering moving them up out of the engine compartment to somewhere in the cockpit. In order to avoid these switches being accidentally knocked they really need to be inset back into some form of fibreglass moulding that could then have a clear perspex cover over the front of it.
Has anyone got any ideas where I may source a suitable moulding from?
It needs to be large eneough to house three battery isolator switches. I have thought that perhaps some other boat builder must use such a moulding, and perhaps I could aquire one from them.
Any help/ advice gratefully received.
Thanks.
Paul.
 
There are plenty of these available in the after market. Normally sold as fire extinguisher recesses, so google for that I suggest.

It would also be easy to home-make one in GRP by making a simple wooden mould, if you're so inclined)
 
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There are plenty of these available in the after market. Normally sold as fire extinguisher recesses, so google for that I suggest

It would also be easy to home-make one in GRP by making a simple wooden mould, if you're so inclined)

Now that is lateral thinking!!
 
I have a targa 40 which has remotely operated master switches. On of are small rocker switches inside. Might be an alternative requiring less surgery on the boat.
 
Rarfki's are in a locker in the cockpit. Just lift the seat base, and they are there with the fuel stop cocks. All neat and tidy and BSC compliant. If you move the switches too far, the BSC inspectors can get twitchy on the length of cable. You also need to consider the cable diameter in order to minimise the losses. If you are on the sea, then BSC doesn't come into it, but might make resale more difficult.
 
If you move the switches too far, the BSC inspectors can get twitchy on the length of cable. You also need to consider the cable diameter in order to minimise the losses.

This is a good point imho. If you want to keep cable lengths the same, you can use remote solenoid activated battery switches (my current and last 2 boats has/had these and they have been very reliable)
 
Thanks jfm. These remote solenoid switches sound like something worth investigating. Do these link to the main Isolator switch for each bank of batteries, or take the place of the isolator switch? (sorry but I'm not the most technical person where electrics are concerned). By the way this is not an update I am planning to carry out myself, but I do need to establish the different options available in order to choose the most practical and safest way to have these altered.
Thanks for all your suggestions. Please keep them coming.
Paul.
 
Thanks jfm. These remote solenoid switches sound like something worth investigating. Do these link to the main Isolator switch for each bank of batteries, or take the place of the isolator switch? (sorry but I'm not the most technical person where electrics are concerned). By the way this is not an update I am planning to carry out myself, but I do need to establish the different options available in order to choose the most practical and safest way to have these altered.
Thanks for all your suggestions. Please keep them coming.
Paul.


They fully replace the existing isolator switches. They are NOT remote actuators for your existing switches

They generally have manual override, so if you ever have a problem with the solenoids or low-current wiring you can go to the switches and operate them manually. Though, in 10 years of having these things on several boats I've never needed to do that

Looking at them, I'd guess they're not cheap
 
I think I would start by seeing what locations might physically be in range of the current battery cable lengths. You could cut OUT a large enough hole somewhere, make up a flat, recessed panel "behind" the hole, and use a simple hinged door over the new set up. 25cm*25cm maybe?
Various materials can be from ukplastics.co.uk,as an example, but do speak to them about suitability as the rigidity and glue-ability is very variable depending on the material. Keeping it all "square" will be alot simpler than trying any grp moulding, and some of those plastics are quite easy to round edge or plane etc to a bit of finish.
 
Based on my very recent experiences of coastal rides, I'd strongly suggest shopping elsewhere. Anywhere, in fact, other than there.

Cheers
Jimmy

Thats quite a statement! In my personal experience I have nothing but praise for them, maybe because I live near to Dover and personally visit.
 

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