Farecla G3

[Mfc1955]

Have been recommended to use this compound prior to using Mer as a final polish. My adviser has said that it can be applied by hand with a damp (mutton) cloth in sections, then hose off. Finish with one/two coats of Mer, anyone else use these products together, thanks

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[longjohnsilver]

G10 is much finer and more suitable for cleaning/light cutting bak. Mer IMHO is excellent.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[halcyon]

We have always used G7, but then I've allways had 30 year old hulls to clean. It my be a choice of how dirty it is when you start, and the amount of effort you put in. We apply with a sponge, then remove / polish with an electric polishing mop, polish and seal ( think we have some of the sample left ).


Brian

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[longjohnsilver]

Well at least G7 much less harsh than G3! Would still rather start with finest and work upwards if necessary. G10 has been excellent for me on a 20 year old hull. That along with Mer has fooled others into thinking I'd had the hull re-painted!

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Birdseye]

the secret is lots of water. i use a polishing machine of the sort used by car painters, and mix the farecla with water to the consistency of salad cream before applying to the mop. even then, i keep a spray bottle of water handy to avoid the compound drying out.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[halcyon]

Think it depends on who keen you are in working it, we use a sponge, then remove when dry, so not to abrasive, also I could get G7 free.


Brian

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[MainlySteam]

In case some are unaware, the newly rebuilt Farecla internet site (farecla.com) has far more useful information on it than the old site - if looking, the G compounds are under automotive.

John

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[VicS]

Farecla compounds and the appropriate foam sponge compounding mops can be obtained from Screwfix.

Do a search for Farecla on this forum and Scuttlebutt and you will find quite a lot of information and previous discussion on this topic.

I used G7 with excellent results It is not a five minute job though but put in the effort and you will be pleased with the results.

Thanks, John, for pointing out that Farecla have at last got their new web site up and running or is that the American one? I'm off to have a look. ........................ Oh its a totally new international site, not as useful as the old .co.uk site.

I did recently post their Uk phone number which the above search should reveal. Give them a ring, they were quite helpful when I rang them a few years ago.


I think I am right in saying that G7 is for cellulose paint whereas G3 is formulated for modern paint systems.
<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by VicS on 11/02/2004 00:29 (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[brians]

Excuse ignorance but what is Mer ?

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[BrendanS]

brand name of a polish

<hr width=100% size=1>There is no such thing as "fun for the whole family."

 

[BlueSkyNick]

I posted on this subject about a month ago and Birdseye recommended the electric polisher from Screwfix - it was 14.99 versus 39.99 in Halfords. It turned up within 48 hours along with a free introductory gift - a spirit level.

As I already have one at home, I am still trying to find a use for a spirit level on a boat - especially one with sails!!

Any ideas?

<hr width=100% size=1>Nostalgia is not what it used to be.

 

[jhr]

Uses for a spirit level

D.I.Y. inclinometer?

/forums/images/icons/smile.gif

<hr width=100% size=1>Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho

 

[pheran]

Is the Screwfix polisher any good? I bought what appears to be the identical item elsewhere a little time back and altho' its rated at 120W it is absolutely gutless. Stops rotating with even the minutest amount of drag on the bonnet and just sits there 'wobbling' What am I doing wrong?

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=blue>A convert to steel boats and displacement cruising - the only way to go</font color=blue>

 

[VicS]

If you are trying to use it it with one of the rubbing compounds G3, G7 etc then you have totally the wrong piece of kit. They have to be used with a foam mop which is kept good and moist and I reckon will need a good deal more than 120w to keep it tuning A lambs wool bonnet is only for buffing up a polish once it has been applied and allowed to dry.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>

 

[Strathglass]

That particular Screwfix one is a waste of time for this particular purpose.

I have a similar one purchased elsewhere and anyone one can have it for £10 plus the carrage.

The best 'proper' one which is really good value for money is available from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.whdirect.co.uk/detail.lasso?keyvalue=10391&-session=Login:73E8B4106361F9E733BE56FB10F91F15>here</A>
it costs about £50 and is a much more powerful tool (7" 1700W.)

Iain

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[BlueSkyNick]

I can't give you a first hand response as I haven't tried it yet. I will also take into account the other comments when I give it a go although we might be talking about different things. My polisher has a sponge mop on it already which I plan to keep wet, but I can't recall the power rating as I am 200 miles away at present.

I will let you know in a couple of weeks.

<hr width=100% size=1>Nostalgia is not what it used to be.

 

[pheran]

As I said, mine looks identical to the one on the Screwfix site/catalogue, cost about the same and whilst it too has a large sponge fitted, I think you will find this is only intended as a backing for the lambswool bonnet.

Incidentally, having looked at one or two 'proper' polishers (incl the one offered by Screwfix) it seems they have a no-load rotational speed of around 2000rpm, much faster than I expected. So.......can anyone tell me why I cant just put the appropriate sponge head on to my B&D electric drill and save myself wads? Or is this just too silly?



<hr width=100% size=1><font color=blue>A convert to steel boats and displacement cruising - the only way to go</font color=blue>

 

[pheran]

Thanks for that link Iain - those I have been looking at are twice and three times that price (altho' its difficult to see why). Haven't been able to access the WHDirect site yet but they may be having some local difficulty so will try again later.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=blue>A convert to steel boats and displacement cruising - the only way to go</font color=blue>

 

[Piers]

I believe you may well have problems with this mix.

If you are looking to restore an excellent finish to faded GRP, use 3M products. Try calling Peter Furby 07770 284 926. Peter has helped many forumites to make their boats gleam, and stay gleaming.

<hr width=100% size=1>Piers du Pré
http://www.dupre.co.uk

 

[VicS]

I do in fact use my mop on an electric drill. The max speed for the mop is 2500rpm and I used an old 2 speed B&D on its slow speed of 900 rpm. I felt that while it was ok for a small boat a proper polishing machine might be better for a larger job but another contributer to the forum has commented on their wieght!

The only problem you might find is adapting the mop to fit the drill. I made an adapter from a bolt (and a nut) with the head cut off and the right thread to fit the mop but I had to turn the shank down to fit the 1/2" drill chuck. Easy if you have access to a small lathe.

Btw there are different grades of foam mops for the different grades of compound.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>