Yep. Would be definitely considered a classic nowadays. Spoon type bow, hotmoulded wood, the baby of the FIrefly, Albacore, Jollyboat, Flying 15, Atlanta etc from Uffa Fox
the mems'b ha d one when she was a kid. Great fun but don't go to windward. Hot moulded construction which was very hi tec at the time. Watch out for delamination.
A 'friend' borrowed ers as a tender and bashed it around on the boatyard slip so the varnish finish and top lam. were wrecked. Then I went and painted it in bitumen - what was I thinking of.
Not the prettiest dinghy Uffa ever designed, and definitely not the fastest. Difficult to repair properly if damaged. They're heavy if you need to lug them up a beach without a trolley.
No, I'd not get another one, unless it was very, very cheap.
I wouldn't say difficult to repair, just time consuming. Best done by cutting back in steps through the plies, allowing a minimum of 40mm overlap. Sharp stanley knife to score the outline, then sharp chisel to remove the agba layers.Very important to scrape/sand the glue off each interface between the plies or the new glue will not penetrate the timber and strength will be lost. Cut new strips of veneer (2.5mm thick) and glue them up with either resorcinol or epoxy and fix in place with a staple gun. When I did this on the bottom of a Fairey Huntress, I had to place a temporary former inside the hull to staple the first 3 layers to in order to get the right shape. When glue has gone off remove staples and repeat process with next layer. It's important to ensure the veneer grain runs in the same direction to that which it replaces for maximum strength. Where internal structure allows, it is preferable to cut back in steps both inside and out. With the repair to the Huntress, the engine beds prevented me working internally, so I increased the overlap to 50mm and repaired from the outside only.
Bill.
<hr width=100% size=1>One of these days I'll have a boat that WORKS