Fairline Targa 30 Survey Report

moretti

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Just been sent some feedback from the survey on a Targa 30 completed yesterday. Boat looks reasonably good but as I'm new to boating, I'm no sure on some of the points he highlighted, especially the refitting of a leaking window. Would that be an expensive fix on a Targa 30? Any help would be appreciated.

Portside coachroof window is leaking. Frame covered in sealant. Requires refitting;

The anchor windlass switches on the deck are not wired through the electrical switch panel. Cockpit switches are wired correctly;

Webasto diesel heater exhaust is touching the fuel tank. Not good practice;
 
Portholes on Fairlines of that era always leak. Should be an easy fix for someone who knows what he is doing.

I'm not convinced the windlass should be wired via the electrical panel in the saloon as there's a separate high power trip / isolator in the engine compartment.

Sorting out the heating exhaust shouldn't be difficult to fix either.

If they were the only issues, sounds good.
 
Thanks, yes I am fairly happy with her

This is the long window as available in the lux pack that is leaking not one of the portholes. I'm jus wondering how big a job it would be to re-fit
 
Thanks, yes I am fairly happy with her

This is the long window as available in the lux pack that is leaking not one of the portholes. I'm jus wondering how big a job it would be to re-fit

I wouldn't think it would be very difficult. Worse case is one of two things happening:

1) The 'glass' is damaged at present or gets damaged when refitting it. There's a sporting chance that the original manufacturer still has the patterns (Fairline's copies may have got lost when 'old' Fairline closed down). Even if the patterns aren't available then I'd be pretty confident that I could find a company to create new glass using the old window as a template. I'd estimate £200 for this.

2) The seals / trim is knackered. Again, Fairline may be able to source this or http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/ might be able to come up with an alternative. I'd estimate £100 for this.

Of course, best case is a couple of hours labour to remove the old glass, clean it all up and re-fit it properly.

Overall, I would estimate that is going to cost you £150 to £500 to fix.

This definitely wouldn't be a showstopper for me. Every boat will have a few niggly things wrong with it.
 
Just been sent some feedback from the survey on a Targa 30 completed yesterday. Boat looks reasonably good but as I'm new to boating, I'm no sure on some of the points he highlighted, especially the refitting of a leaking window. Would that be an expensive fix on a Targa 30? Any help would be appreciated.

Portside coachroof window is leaking. Frame covered in sealant. Requires refitting;

The anchor windlass switches on the deck are not wired through the electrical switch panel. Cockpit switches are wired correctly;

Webasto diesel heater exhaust is touching the fuel tank. Not good practice;
First approach is to ask vendor to fix at his cost. Second is for you to estimate cost to fix, and negotiate price down. Vendor could say no, so your choice if you like the boat and price.
 
Nick Vass and myself surveyed this boat yesterday , my view is it is a very nice unusual model with the sun pad aft and great galley / saloon. Very good engine access through the sun pad which means you don't have to lift the cockpit cushions and floor to gain access.
A genuine 30 knot boat from KAD 32 engines.

The window will reseal no problem, the winch wiring needs altering an easy fix .
 
Nick Vass and myself surveyed this boat yesterday , my view is it is a very nice unusual model with the sun pad aft and great galley / saloon. Very good engine access through the sun pad which means you don't have to lift the cockpit cushions and floor to gain access.
A genuine 30 knot boat from KAD 32 engines.

The window will reseal no problem, the winch wiring needs altering an easy fix .

Should be good for nearer 40kts, our was. You're right about engine access (I assume you lifted the hydraulic sunpad and didn't use the emergency access through the top).
 
thanks all and thanks to volvopaul and nick for their time and effort yesterday. i can highly recommend them

i'm new to this boating stuff, so probably asking and will ask a lot of stupid questions.

I will ask the owner to fix window due to the potential to damage interior from water ingress i will fix the other niggles and issues myself.
 
thanks all and thanks to volvopaul and nick for their time and effort yesterday. i can highly recommend them

i'm new to this boating stuff, so probably asking and will ask a lot of stupid questions.

I will ask the owner to fix window due to the potential to damage interior from water ingress i will fix the other niggles and issues myself.

I'm not saying that's a bad idea but it could delay completion and he may not have as good a quality repair carried out as you would like. Also, you won't have any recourse if the job is bodged.
 
Should be good for nearer 40kts, our was. You're right about engine access (I assume you lifted the hydraulic sunpad and didn't use the emergency access through the top).

40 knots , no way with that hp on A6 props .
Rev counters were very inaccurate due to non genuine Volvo alternators when checked with hand held tacho.
 
I,m worried that the lack of speed at WOT would seem to suggest an underlying issue with the engines. After having read numerous posts in various forums, the overriding view is that this particular boat is good for 35+ knots period and anything below that, means that something is not quite right.
Do I need to allow myself some wriggle room for engine repairs etc. To be honest, This would be something that I have not budgeted for
 
I used to run a slightly different boat (Sealine S28), but with exactly the same engines / drives / and A6 props.
VMax in perfect conditions was 34kts, when it was new-ish, and everything else was perfect.

i.e. props in perfect condition, clean drives, clean hull, half full tanks, and drives trimmed out a bit with trim tabs retracted.
Any one of the above could cause you to drop a couple of knots, or more.

But the people who are saying you should be hitting higher speeds are probably talking about running larger props - e.g. A7
You won't hit 35kts with KAD32's and a pair of A6's.

.
 
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The table below doesn't mean that sticking on a pair of A10 propellers will magically make your boat do 45kts ... it's not that way around!
But I would want my KAD32's to be pulling 3800rpm or more with a pair of A6's. Assuming no fouling, clean props etc.

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The table below doesn't mean that sticking on a pair of A10 propellers will magically make your boat do 45kts ... it's not that way around!
But I would want my KAD32's to be pulling 3800rpm or more with a pair of A6's. Assuming no fouling, clean props etc.

MXHuc7.png

I don't have a test report for a T30 but I do have one for a T29 (similar hull) on KAD32's. The MBY test gave a top speed of 36kts at 3900rpm on A7 props. From what I can recall, our T30 ran A7's too.

Can I ask the OP how fast the boat went on the sea trial? I certainly agree with FP that there could be many reasons why the boat isn't going quite as fast as it once did, most of them are pretty innocuous.
 
I am just after reading the report from Volvo paul and the boat achieved 32.3 knots with a broken prop. Hopefully with the prop and alternator problems sorted the boat will achieve the correct top speed.

Can I ask where you guys would go from here? would you ask for the prop and alternator problem to be fixed by the owner, or to save delaying the whole process would you ask for money off the final price that was negotiated and get the boat fixed once I have it home?
 
I am just after reading the report from Volvo paul and the boat achieved 32.3 knots with a broken prop. Hopefully with the prop and alternator problems sorted the boat will achieve the correct top speed.

Can I ask where you guys would go from here? would you ask for the prop and alternator problem to be fixed by the owner, or to save delaying the whole process would you ask for money off the final price that was negotiated and get the boat fixed once I have it home?

What's the alternator problem (other than the fact that they are not OE alternators) and how would that affect top speed? If it was me I think i'd be asking the seller to stand up for the broken prop and sea trial it again. That said, if it's got A6s and it needs A7s to get the expected top speed, it's hard to see how to see how repairing the existing A6 is going to give you the result you're expecting.
 
What's the alternator problem (other than the fact that they are not OE alternators) and how would that affect top speed? If it was me I think i'd be asking the seller to stand up for the broken prop and sea trial it again. That said, if it's got A6s and it needs A7s to get the expected top speed, it's hard to see how to see how repairing the existing A6 is going to give you the result you're expecting.

Hi Jimmy , it's not particularly a speed issue though it's down a couple or knots.
The issue is I could not read the correct rpm attained because the rev counters don't work correctly, for example a no load max speed should read 3900/4000 rpm , it read 2000 on the port engine , I carried out a couple of readings with my hand held tacho which wasn't easy bouncing around to get a reading as I could not get into the engine bay as it was too dangerous , this model is a baby targa 40 with a sun pad that lifts to gain engine access . The alternators feed the rev counters with a pulse , as their both after market models there clearly not correctly matched so there is either an issue with the code settings on the rev counters or the alternators are not giving the correct info.
 
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