vas
Well-Known Member
W, I'll show Anna the pic with T using a sledgehammer and knocking down a wall and ask her when she's going to help me (got to knock one wall at home soonish) 
Fairline Fury MK1 restoration/refurb
- Thread starter waynes world
- Start date
waynes world
Well-Known Member
W, I'll show Anna the pic with T using a sledgehammer and knocking down a wall and ask her when she's going to help me (got to knock one wall at home soonish)
Well I try and find the pics if the 4 ton of Slate she wanted for the garden. Now that is hard work to rake out. Took 17 years but she is trained now ha ha. Keep that between us two lol.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Well still trying to get this dam workshop done but still struggling to do much, getting there though now 
Boat time soon
Hey would you Adam n Eve it, the floor is level, big door fitted and filled in.
I got these jjust over 2msq UPVC doors at a good price i think, i was going to go with timber and loglap but these look better i reckon. These are new cancelled order doors so new,
I got some 3mm ally from work for nowt and cut to size and then painted with Hammered Hammerite. Trying to natch the front door of the house. I was goign to use a timber effect roller to get the sae, finish but being a tight git i didnt want to spend another tenner lol. Think i have spent enough on just refrubing this place.
Ont inside i will be adding 25mm timber batten around the edge to make up the 28mm standard DG thickness.
And flor leveled up, that near filled me, only about 15sqm but the state i am in it wasnt easy and i stood on the float and snapped it so had to wait a few hours for my mate to come to get his. He was meant to be helping me but had to work. Christ concrete is expensive aswell noways at £180 a cube. yes the edges are crap but i was struggling. wont see then anyway with the shelving and work benches there.
So next is to seal the old base as its dusty as hell. then paint that The new top concrete will have to wait untill it sets in a month or so before i can paint it.
And electrics to be done when i decide on LED lighting.
Feel better now got this far so i can crack on with the boat build
Boat time soon Hey would you Adam n Eve it, the floor is level, big door fitted and filled in.
I got these jjust over 2msq UPVC doors at a good price i think, i was going to go with timber and loglap but these look better i reckon. These are new cancelled order doors so new,
I got some 3mm ally from work for nowt and cut to size and then painted with Hammered Hammerite. Trying to natch the front door of the house. I was goign to use a timber effect roller to get the sae, finish but being a tight git i didnt want to spend another tenner lol. Think i have spent enough on just refrubing this place.
Ont inside i will be adding 25mm timber batten around the edge to make up the 28mm standard DG thickness.
And flor leveled up, that near filled me, only about 15sqm but the state i am in it wasnt easy and i stood on the float and snapped it so had to wait a few hours for my mate to come to get his. He was meant to be helping me but had to work. Christ concrete is expensive aswell noways at £180 a cube. yes the edges are crap but i was struggling. wont see then anyway with the shelving and work benches there.
So next is to seal the old base as its dusty as hell. then paint that The new top concrete will have to wait untill it sets in a month or so before i can paint it.
And electrics to be done when i decide on LED lighting.
Feel better now got this far so i can crack on with the boat build
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Thought i would try and cheer myself up a bit and see ifi can get my back side into gear so an update, it helps at times to look back n this stuff.
Its beena while this and got very little done, due tio health and frozen shoulders and eye hemorrhage a couple of month ago so lost a fiar bit of site in my good eye this has been a task in itself. so if spelling is bad its becuase i am sick of editing lol.
Well as left off i have fishind the workshop off and all good to go. thes ewindows i removed last autum i think.
And had a go at polishing them up. easy enough as last time but quicker as this time i just used the DA and 120g pads then 1st and 3rd satge on the polisher.
Before and after, if i could i could get them all done in a day
Going to get some Autsol to keep them shiny
near as dam all the brackets are either snapped or needd drilling out so i made a jig on the flypress to make things easier
will get them done a bit at a time as when i have patience.
I have been debating as what to do with the engiens. as i am sad to say i have let the mooring i had go at Port Dinorwic on the Menia straits. Only due to not being able to drive now and it dosnt look good on time and how my eyes will be. BUT no fear i can and plan to put it on the Lancaster canal and i can still gte down as i wish, a quick days cruise cruise about 100 mile down the coast and be reat
I was thinking no pint in have two big engines and stuck on the canal but then i can gte to the sea down the Glasson branch off the Lancaster canal to have fun.
It was either that or get rid of the boat and no chanc ei want to do wthat.
Another thing is thinking on when to sell the trailer its on, got some good moeny in that to help the boat funds along. Maybe even my tow car, no really needed now.
Soon be updating with engien rebuild, going to do it myself if i can get digital verniers etc. should i do a full on rebuild or whats needed.....need to chekc the engines over first i reckon and decide. Cant believe its goin gto cost around £350 to get a machine shop just to look it over to see what needs doing.
Its beena while this and got very little done, due tio health and frozen shoulders and eye hemorrhage a couple of month ago so lost a fiar bit of site in my good eye this has been a task in itself. so if spelling is bad its becuase i am sick of editing lol.
Well as left off i have fishind the workshop off and all good to go. thes ewindows i removed last autum i think.
And had a go at polishing them up. easy enough as last time but quicker as this time i just used the DA and 120g pads then 1st and 3rd satge on the polisher.
Before and after, if i could i could get them all done in a day
Going to get some Autsol to keep them shiny
near as dam all the brackets are either snapped or needd drilling out so i made a jig on the flypress to make things easier
will get them done a bit at a time as when i have patience.
I have been debating as what to do with the engiens. as i am sad to say i have let the mooring i had go at Port Dinorwic on the Menia straits. Only due to not being able to drive now and it dosnt look good on time and how my eyes will be. BUT no fear i can and plan to put it on the Lancaster canal and i can still gte down as i wish, a quick days cruise cruise about 100 mile down the coast and be reat
I was thinking no pint in have two big engines and stuck on the canal but then i can gte to the sea down the Glasson branch off the Lancaster canal to have fun.
It was either that or get rid of the boat and no chanc ei want to do wthat.
Another thing is thinking on when to sell the trailer its on, got some good moeny in that to help the boat funds along. Maybe even my tow car, no really needed now.
Soon be updating with engien rebuild, going to do it myself if i can get digital verniers etc. should i do a full on rebuild or whats needed.....need to chekc the engines over first i reckon and decide. Cant believe its goin gto cost around £350 to get a machine shop just to look it over to see what needs doing.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
@
oldgit
thought i would link to this here instead of the 270 thread i started. whats yoir thoughts on this then. little confused now.
This is a oib i needed to start on so best get it doen now as this will be a decider on what will happen with engines etc. The VP 270 drives need checkin gover. I knocked up this stand quick, excuse the welding if you can see it lol, rubbish but doing the job.
as expected very seized and stiff plugs but got the out by wacking in Torx bits instead of the Allen key type. lot better grip with Torx.
Now unless i have removed the wrong plug fromt he lower G box its dry ads a bone
Prop off to get to this plug
On removal found dry
dipstick shows nice clean oil.
removed the mid plug and thick black oil, no water though showing whuch is good.
but only about 1/2l if that, reckon it must of been drained but from the looks of the drain plugs thye ahvnt been touched in a long time.
oldgit
thought i would link to this here instead of the 270 thread i started. whats yoir thoughts on this then. little confused now.
This is a oib i needed to start on so best get it doen now as this will be a decider on what will happen with engines etc. The VP 270 drives need checkin gover. I knocked up this stand quick, excuse the welding if you can see it lol, rubbish but doing the job.
as expected very seized and stiff plugs but got the out by wacking in Torx bits instead of the Allen key type. lot better grip with Torx.
Now unless i have removed the wrong plug fromt he lower G box its dry ads a bone
Prop off to get to this plug
On removal found dry
dipstick shows nice clean oil.
removed the mid plug and thick black oil, no water though showing whuch is good.
but only about 1/2l if that, reckon it must of been drained but from the looks of the drain plugs thye ahvnt been touched in a long time.
Last edited:
scottie
Well-Known Member
wrong plug that’s the anode retaining screw
oil drain will be on the lower gear unit housing lower belly as I recall
oil drain will be on the lower gear unit housing lower belly as I recall
waynes world
Well-Known Member
T found it for me, dam these eyes
left it to soak for a few days as it wont come out with impact drill
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Hate doing windows 
I am thinking on using a different method to reseal these. i have cleaned them back, well two of the 12 if you include the flybridge windows. I usually use the rubber U channel and felt runner seals but this time i am thinking on just using either a High Modulus sealant adhesive or a Low Modulus one. OR Butyl that i use to fit the frames into the boat. Gun grade here though not strip.
I love the Puraflex 40 as its as good as the Sikaflex 291i and half the price and has been great over the years. I know it will be a pain in the **** to remove the glass from the frame in the future , but that should only have to happen if the window gets broken, in over 30 years i have never had a broken window on a boat. So maybe no reason not to use HM sealant. i say this as i have a load of Puraflex 40 here.
I have the Butyl aswell but i dont like the idea of that alone a st doesnt set very much. Then though its great for sealing in the frames to the boat.
Decisions decisions hey ha ha
OMH to think 10 windows to go AAARRRRrrrrrrrr
Ok done an hour or so and stressing so chill time. Going t be a looooong weekend ha ha.
Oh and i have done something else different. I have always drilled and tapped these frame brackets. this time i am trying the drill/tap screws. these are not Tek or Easy Drive just cheap ones of ebay.
lot less faffing about.
Made a grind bar to get them to length. just the drill tip sticks a bit much, mite be ok but dont want to risk it against the glass edge.
the heads are few mm wider than the original screws so these will be countersunk abit more later.
so this one is near done but for messing up a bit with the last three brackets. thats where i stopped an dleft it. learnt how to walk away when getting stressed and not throw a spanner, or a window ha ha
I have let my mooring go down Wales and goig to stick it on the canal agaim where i was last. it has access to Glasson Dock and the sea, this way its a 65 mile trip to Isle of Man or a 100 mile to Llandudno. good trips ahead if i get it done.
I am thinking on using a different method to reseal these. i have cleaned them back, well two of the 12 if you include the flybridge windows. I usually use the rubber U channel and felt runner seals but this time i am thinking on just using either a High Modulus sealant adhesive or a Low Modulus one. OR Butyl that i use to fit the frames into the boat. Gun grade here though not strip.
I love the Puraflex 40 as its as good as the Sikaflex 291i and half the price and has been great over the years. I know it will be a pain in the **** to remove the glass from the frame in the future , but that should only have to happen if the window gets broken, in over 30 years i have never had a broken window on a boat. So maybe no reason not to use HM sealant. i say this as i have a load of Puraflex 40 here.
I have the Butyl aswell but i dont like the idea of that alone a st doesnt set very much. Then though its great for sealing in the frames to the boat.
Decisions decisions hey ha ha
OMH to think 10 windows to go AAARRRRrrrrrrrr
Ok done an hour or so and stressing so chill time. Going t be a looooong weekend ha ha.
Oh and i have done something else different. I have always drilled and tapped these frame brackets. this time i am trying the drill/tap screws. these are not Tek or Easy Drive just cheap ones of ebay.
lot less faffing about.
Made a grind bar to get them to length. just the drill tip sticks a bit much, mite be ok but dont want to risk it against the glass edge.
the heads are few mm wider than the original screws so these will be countersunk abit more later.
so this one is near done but for messing up a bit with the last three brackets. thats where i stopped an dleft it. learnt how to walk away when getting stressed and not throw a spanner, or a window ha ha
I have let my mooring go down Wales and goig to stick it on the canal agaim where i was last. it has access to Glasson Dock and the sea, this way its a 65 mile trip to Isle of Man or a 100 mile to Llandudno. good trips ahead if i get it done.
stelican
Well-Known Member
Fairline moved on to welded joints on their window frames due to leaks.
Maybe worth investigating.
Maybe worth investigating.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Yes but to find a set would not be easy to find.
so three down eight to go
atleast they all slide nice now and look pretty .I tried anoyther way to seal these to the norm and used Puraflaex 40 so hope they dont get broke ha ha
I am so tempted to crack on with these engines, still struggling to to see the micrometers but hospital tomorrow and see what they can do, well say,
waynes world
Well-Known Member
You would not believe how happy i am just to get these three windows in
T is a diamond as i always say. If it wasnt for her this would not be done. She had the inside to work on fitting the washer and nuts while e i tightend up outside. a few ares i over tightened which peeed me off a bit.
I still need to trim back the Butyl but atleast there sealed and pen nicely once again.
I just wish i didnt try new things, i used this `easy` removal tape when i removed the windows so i could cover them with poly sheeting., hell it is not `easy` to remove. tooks hours to remove with heat gun and acetone.
I was lucky enough to find the Pink Stuff i got ages ago so to make it easy to clean up the cabin to the windows edge once the windows are fitted.
So cleaned up well all frames with Acetone and fitted the Butyl tape. cracking stuff in both tape and cartridge form.
I need to give them a quick polish/clean ip again once i have trimmed back the butyl from the edge.
The canopy should be made and fitted in a month or so which i will glad of as it been near 8 moths in the wait and i think i have found the leak in the cabin. So once that is fitted it will tell me if i am right or not. Hope to god i am.
this has got me motivated a bit more now
T is a diamond as i always say. If it wasnt for her this would not be done. She had the inside to work on fitting the washer and nuts while e i tightend up outside. a few ares i over tightened which peeed me off a bit.
I still need to trim back the Butyl but atleast there sealed and pen nicely once again.
I just wish i didnt try new things, i used this `easy` removal tape when i removed the windows so i could cover them with poly sheeting., hell it is not `easy` to remove. tooks hours to remove with heat gun and acetone.
I was lucky enough to find the Pink Stuff i got ages ago so to make it easy to clean up the cabin to the windows edge once the windows are fitted.
So cleaned up well all frames with Acetone and fitted the Butyl tape. cracking stuff in both tape and cartridge form.
I need to give them a quick polish/clean ip again once i have trimmed back the butyl from the edge.
The canopy should be made and fitted in a month or so which i will glad of as it been near 8 moths in the wait and i think i have found the leak in the cabin. So once that is fitted it will tell me if i am right or not. Hope to god i am.
this has got me motivated a bit more now
Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
Cracking job! ???
stelican
Well-Known Member
Looks good glad you used the proper bedding sealant.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
I learnt over the years. Adhesive is for if you dont want them coming out and Silicone is for Sili c***s lol
Bajansailor
Well-Known Member
Your new windows do look very nice indeed.
And I am pleased to see that you were well fortified by Stella as well as T.
And I am pleased to see that you were well fortified by Stella as well as T.
Bigplumbs
Well-Known Member
Lovely work Wayne. I do lots of DIY but your skills take things to a new level. Love the workshop it must help a lot being able to get inside. Well done
snowbird30ds
Well-Known Member
When I've had window frames out I've put them back in with self adhesive expanded neoprene tape as it's easy and clean, as long as it compresses it seals well, I used butyl tape years ago and regretted it big time when I had to take them back out.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Been there and done it with most of the ways to seal windows. This is the proper stuff and one of the best. Wouldn't of used it otherwise. The neoprene is good.
waynes world
Well-Known Member
Faffer by name Faffer by nature ha ha
Plan was to rebuild the two engines then not, but to gte one runner then rebuild or gte on ei have going etc etc etc etc
So.....
I spotted this on ebay a week or so ago at £2300 but to much for me and i wanted to rebuild these two i have so i didnt bother to make an offer and forgot about it. Then a mate linked me to it for sale on a Face Ache page and a good bit less so i made an offer and two days after its here.
Running it is but needs a front seal replacing which is somewhere in the load of parts that came with it.
Arrived home today and found this outside the workshop
As said loads of spares, bellhousing, couple of starter motors and alternators, crank shaft and camshaft, gaskets, leads, pistons etc etc etc
Thus weekends job will be to check it over fully and get it running, check the compression and what not and go from there.
Now all the parts i have with this and the other two engines i have i should get one more good one.
Plan was to rebuild the two engines then not, but to gte one runner then rebuild or gte on ei have going etc etc etc etc
So.....
I spotted this on ebay a week or so ago at £2300 but to much for me and i wanted to rebuild these two i have so i didnt bother to make an offer and forgot about it. Then a mate linked me to it for sale on a Face Ache page and a good bit less so i made an offer and two days after its here.
Running it is but needs a front seal replacing which is somewhere in the load of parts that came with it.
Arrived home today and found this outside the workshop
As said loads of spares, bellhousing, couple of starter motors and alternators, crank shaft and camshaft, gaskets, leads, pistons etc etc etc
Thus weekends job will be to check it over fully and get it running, check the compression and what not and go from there.
Now all the parts i have with this and the other two engines i have i should get one more good one.
