Exhaust Hose - Advice please

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Have a 90 degree copper exhaust hose elbow directly below the engine which is connected to 2 sections of flexible exhaust hose. One of the joints has been leaking so I decided to get a new piece of hose. The copper elbow has 2.25" (57mm) O.D. sections to connect the hose. So I bought 2.25" I.D. exhaust hose which when clamped with 2 jubilee clips and the engine started, sends a small jet of exhaust water out of the joint. I've rotated the hose but there's still a leak. The copper elbow is not damaged in any way. Is there some suitable sealant I can use for these joints or should I be using smaller diameter hose? If so what size? I know I can heat the hose in boiling water prior to fitting, but access is very restricted and it could take a minute to get the hose from the boiling water to the joint. Also the hose wall is made up with two wire coils. Will heating the hose make much difference? The other piece of flexible hose connected to the elbow is labelled "Volvo Exhaust 828465 41,025a 448641" if anybody knows what I.D. that might be.
Does anybody have any solutions bearing in mind the poor access which makes it difficult to push the hose on with any great force?
Thanks R.
 
This has been debated just recently and you will get all sorts of advice but ,the only way to do it is to strip out a couple of turns of the wire enough to get 2" of hose onto the flange.
 
Before attacking the hose itself, I wd try taking the hose off and soaking the end in boiling water for at least a couple of minutes, and then reasemble. The hose won't have great specific heat capacity - it takes a while to heat up in boiling water - but then it will also cool down fairly slowly too - so use gloves to assemble.

The soaking makes it a teeny bit bigger but much more importantly it makes it more pliable for you to to nip it up with the jubilee clips, doing one and then the other in turn repeatedly to get a tight seal on the metal spigot.

Be careful during assembly tho - the copper isn't too strong and can be split or snapped so only push or twist the hose but minimise bending on the spigot.

Btw, exactly the same soaking in boiling water works for asembling pipery for garden watering systems incidentally - when cold it's almost impossible, but warm they slip together easily.

A drop of lubricant (wasking up liquid) on the spigot may also help initially to get the thing a long way up the spigot.

of course, make sure the spigot is really clean with no lines/ scratches along its length where previous assemblies have been pulled - fine emery rubed ariound the circumference (not longitudinally) to make it shiny is all it should need.

let us know how it works.
 
Capsco's right. Just remove a couple of inches of the wire re-inforcing then re-clamp. This is the standard way of connecting using 'Jubilee' type clips. It is very unlikely that soaking will effect a long term solution.
 
make sure that the jubilee clip is only just big enough for the hose. Too large and there is a chance that this will create the place for the pinhole leak.
 
[ QUOTE ]
The other piece of flexible hose connected to the elbow is labelled "Volvo Exhaust 828465 41,025a 448641" if anybody knows what I.D. that might be.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thats 57mm internal diameter hose from VP.
 
The effect of heat on rubber is to cause it to become harder with age. In order to prevent the exhaust system from cracking wire reinforcement has been used for many years. This is a difficult hose to work with but safeguards the hose against a sudden split. The advice to remove reinforcement from the connection point in order to ease the fitting of the hose ignores the fact that flexibly mounted engines when they move attempt to flex the exhaust system also. The hose would be stiff aside from a point which has been weakened by having its reinforcement removed. Any flexing which takes place will first be accomodated by that weakest point rather than by the complete system flexing by a limited amount. Water when it leaks will be obvious however exhaust gas is more insidious in its action.

A normal stainless steel worm drive hose clip will be able to reduce the diametre of a steel reinforced rubber hose by a limited amount only. Stronger clamps incorporating a nut and bolt are available in stainless steel.

Swap your Jubilee clip for an appropriate hose clamp. The best and also the easiest solution. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
The section where the wire had been removed would then be sleeved by the exaust itself ,how could it be weaker there?
 
You say it leaked before and you've replaced the hose. I think double jubilee clips turned up tight (use a socket?) should seal flexible exhaust hose just fine. So I'd have another look at that copper elbow. Is it cracked maybe - have a look in good light with a lens. Copper won't last forever in that situation and a new one won't be hard to find from ASAP or similar?
 
the hose is normally in one length, if you have a bit of copper fitting in the middle is it because someone has done a bit of a bodge? i replaced the bit from my exhaust elbow to the plastic water trap without having to strip the wire or use sealant, the inner rubber coating should be sufficient to seal if you can get enough purchase on the hose clips.
stu
 
It sounds like the same problem I came across on another Dehler 38 a few months ago. It is a real pain to connect the 2 hoses onto the 90° swept bend when it is in position under the engine. Sounds like you have the same, or at least a similar, setup.

I wound up taking the hose off the injection elbow and off the water trap, making the joints on the 90° bend and then feeding the assembly back under the engine and with a bit of wriggling and s few swear words pulling the end up to, and on to, the injection elbow then remaking the connection to the water trap. No need for removing any of the reinforcing wire. You may have turned a little of the inner liner back on its self trying to rassle the hose on. A little liquid soap helps as do exhaust clamps rather than jubilee clips although you should still manage to get a couple of jubilee clips tight enough to give a gas and watertight seal. I appreciate you may not relish the idea of having to remake an extra 2 joints but I found it easier than trying to work under the engine. At least you can take some comfort from the fact you are not alone in having that particular problem.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
[ QUOTE ]
I think double jubilee clips turned up tight (use a socket?) should seal flexible exhaust hose just fine.

[/ QUOTE ] No they don't. Only use clamps which have bolts to secure them. Speaking from bitter experience.... /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Volvo supply ordinary jubilee clips...

Volvo supply ordinary jubilee clips with their exhaust outlets, and illustrate ordinary jubilee clips with their other exhaust products. So I guess they might work for some people.
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Re: Volvo supply ordinary jubilee clips...

Might you have a partial blockage elsewhere in the exhaust giving a massive amount of back-pressure? Mine is only a small engine but it wouldn't leak even with no jubilee clips on the exhaust - only the engine vibration would be likely to loosen the hose but the pressure in it should be very low!

Also, have you checked the spigot for roundness with vernier callipers? Copper is very soft so if there's a little dent in it somewhere or it has gone a bit oval, that might be thwarting your attempts to seal it. My personal view is that it is a terrible thing to strip some of the reinforcement out of the hose. Chances are, the stresses on it will be greatest at the very end of the spout over which it is pushed. As the engine hops about, I'd expect the pipe to fracture at this point one day. I don't think the wire is for when the hose goes brittle either - I think it's merely to stop it kinking when forced into a curve, that's all!
 
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