Epoxy repair job

[iainmillett]

My Hunter 23 was epoxied from new - some 10 years back.

I've noted however that some patches have begun to flake off whilst antifouling.

Can I simply rub down and re-epoxy the gaps or am I destined at some point to employ a sand-blaster and get the whole thing done again?

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[longjohnsilver]

Sand blasting shouldn't be too expensive, if it's coming off nin places then what's the rest of it like.

Either ignore it or get it done properly. If the hull isn't wet then it's not a priority, unless of course it flakes and takes your antifoul with it!

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[Avocet]

I'm doing that right now! I scraped off all my antifoul to reveal a rather lousy DIY epoxy job - some of which was flaking off. I attacked it with a sander and a fair bit more has come off but I'm pretty certian that what is now left is pretty well stuck. I got the local yard to stick a damp meter in it and they told me it was fine - plenty dry enough to re-apply the epoxy so I'll maybe have a go this weekend if the weather holds!

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[longjohnsilver]

Weather should be perfect for it. Good luck, I did mine about 3 weeks ago.

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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Iain,

You should first check to find out what moisture you have in the hull, patching a wet hull will result in more problems later by sealing the moisture in.

If the moisture is ok you have two options, and both will require the removal of all the antifouling.

1) Treat the areas that have flaked after you have lightly sanded the hull to ensure what remains is secure. This will save you some time and money, however it sounds like it will only delay the inevitable.

2) Sand it back with an 80 grit and then a 120 grit and re apply at least 3 coats of resin.

Tip: when applying epoxy over a previous coat, always wash it with fresh water and one of the green plastic kitchen scourers, you will know when it's clean as the water will no longer form beads, indicating the residue left from the curing process has been removed. this is one of the major causes for flaking if not done, sanding will not remove the residue, rather, it spreads and imbeds the contaminants. Only sand it after cleaning, a 200 grit will remove the gloss, that's all it needs.

I hope this helps

Andavagoodweekend.



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[BlueSkyNick]

I was in a chandlery yesterday, and another guy came in looking for rollers. He had started applying epoxy to his hull using paint rollers bought from the household DIY shop. Apparently both the foam sponge and the wool rollers started to disintegrate not long after applying the epoxy. The chandlers suggested using brushes instead.

Is there a recommended type of roller or brush?

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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Big Nick,

Most domestic rollers and even some brushes will be destroyed by epoxy, the bad news is that as they fall apart they contaminate the resin and it has to be removed.

A visit to a good paint shop should get you the right type, Rota Cota and West System both make suitable rollers and I have used both for many years.

I hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend.....



<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[Strathglass]

I have used the small West epoxy rollers, SP also sell similar ones.
They are a very thin foam on a cardboard former the same size as radiator rollers and do not fall apart.

If you are mixing epoxy or (even worse) two part varnish use PAPER cups and plates. They do not disolve with the solvents.

You can of course use the calibrated mixing containers from SP etc if you are doing a big job, but they add on to the costs.

I usually find paper cups and soup plates in the local supermarket.

Another alternative which is very good is babies potties or plastic dog bowls. the epoxy does not stick to them and they can easily be recycled.

Iain

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[ArgoNot]

I endorse iainsimpson's comment on paper cups, though I find them hard to get. Also, get your tongue depressors from your chemist, where you will get a huge box for less than the price of an 'epoxy bagged set' from your chandlery.

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