Engines out

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tamarind

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Got to take my engines out AD41's, as steering bushes, arms and rams need replacing. Boat has got to that age where there is some corrosion around the steering arms etc. Thought while the engines are out, just do the lot so replacing the items on the transom shields and water pick up pipes is a good move. Also while they have been removed it will be a good opertunity to sort the bilge pumps, clean out the bilges and have a good going over of the engines. Want to get the boat back in the water up and running by the 28 Nov as Cowes have a party!! wish me luck
 
Look very carefully at the sumps , if in doubt replace now as otherwise its engines out in a year or so.

They only last for 7 or 8 years .

If you replace give them a coat or two more paint.
 
Had ours out a couple of years ago - DIY job and I posted loads of pics on here.
Taking the port one out again this winter as we have an oil leak on the sump gasket (ironic really as we changed it and the old one didn't leak). Also getting water in via the steering so new bush needed methinks.
 
O joy !

That will be this then...
volvo3.jpg

Have done the steering bushes a couple of times only real problem is persuading the steering arm to let go of the splined top of the steering fork after you have released the "pig to get at " clampng bolt.
We rigged up a tripod affair using scaffold poles to lift the engine and move it back the foot or so needed to work on transom.
 
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As we are taking the engines completely out I will change the sump gaskets and take a good look at the sumps themselves. Also renew the all awkward pipework and hoses. Once the engines are out I will spray all the steering arms and forks etc with WD40 and let soak over night and if necessary have to heat up assembly to release it. All good fun!!
 
WD40 and let soak over night + bit of heat ?
I used a couple of thin hardwood wedges to force the steering yoke shaft out of the steering arm.This is done externally where the shaft enters the transom shield.
The wood will cause no damage to alloy fork and sheild.
Not a good idea to put a drift on the shaft inside cos being soft aluminum its burr over and prevent removal of steering arm.
Top and bottom bushes (cheap plastic) are two different sizes,easy to force into wrong slot and damage !
While you are at it check the riser
DSCN3976.jpg
 
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All that work can be carried out with the engines in as long as there is enough room to get about, I always removed certain parts from the engines to gain access to the steering and inner ram pin areas, what make and model of boat is it?.
 
oldgit said:
That will be this then...
volvo3.jpg

Have done the steering bushes a couple of times only real problem is persuading the steering arm to let go of the splined top of the steering fork after you have released the "pig to get at " clampng bolt.
We rigged up a tripod affair using scaffold poles to lift the engine and move it back the foot or so needed to work on transom.
Click to expand...

We tried to get the steering arm out last time round and it wouldn't play ball. Ran out of time so overdosed on the grease, which worked for a season but not this year. Will try the hard wood wedge as you suggest in your other reply. Thanks.
 
Oak or teak best,soft wood will just disintegrate

Remove steering helmet and other "clutter" around fork,then insert wedges as close as you can to fork shaft.You will need a "proper" hammer to hit the wedges,we used a flogging hammer,the sort of thing that one of the dwarfs in Lord of The Rings would be proud to own.Weedy hammers will only split the surface of the wedge as you hit it.
The pointy bit (of the wedge) may break up as it hits the back of the transom,worth having some spare wedges before you start the process.
It normally lets go without warning and then just drops out.
 
Steering Bushes

Mine need tackling too, I think?

Symptoms are - the steering is pretty heavy [no power assist but decent hydraulic steering] and if I disconnect the steering ram and tie bar the drives take a serious amount of effort to tug from lock to lock.

So, if I can get the steering arm [19] off and use OLDGIT's wedges to drift the steering helmet [17] down and out what am I likely to find?

I presume the Nylon bushes sit in a plain bored hole in the aluminium shield and the alloy has corroded nipping the bushes up on the spindle.

Does the housing usually clean up OK or am I likely to have to machine out and sleeve the housing? - in which case it's engines out, shields off and do it all on the bench... goodee!

18696.jpg
 
The boat is a Fairline Targa 33 1992. Engines are coming out tomoro. Getting shields refurbed, blank off water pick ups and put in through hull seacocks, new leg trim readers, I know what they are called but not going to try to spell it. Hopefully steering forks ok but we will find out.
 
I would be very careful about blanking the water intakes off, the idea of water going up the leg is to cool the lower part of the drive thats in the water when on the plane, have you ever touched the upper gear housing when on the move, you will be surprised how warm it is, thats why some builders fit the shower tubes to spray the top housing, some builders insist on it.

I wonder who put that idea in you head about blanking off the proven and tried system of years of design?
 
Mine need tackling too, I think?
As a strictly amateur bodger,I would guess that it is not the bushes which are making the legs hard to move with the steering disconnected.The classic sign of bush wear is water ingress into the boat via the steering fork shaft(this sometimes leaves an obvious stain from the bush down into the bilge.This is worse where the fork bush is constantly submerged as on my boat.,copious amounts of grease via the various nipples will give a semi permanent/temerary cure.
The legs are hard to shift even when pushed from outside the boat,there is a lot of weight there and the resistance from the gaitors and the U/Js to take into account.
there should be a grease nipple on top of the steering shaft..


"I wonder who put that idea in you head about blanking off the proven and tried system of years of design?"
That conversion to collect cooling water from an inlet in the hull is quite a common one in this part of the world.
Mind you have only ever seen it done on low power old volvo stuff in Princess 32 and the like.
 
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Thanks for the advice Volvopaul. I did wonder about the water going through the leg for cooling. A few people including a couple of marine engineers whose names I had better not mention, have suggested the blanking off idea and sticking in sea cocks for the water pick ups. I definately won't do that now! The engines have been removed today without any drama's. Now to disconnect everything else and a good clean out of the bilges.
 
Yes glad there out ok without any grp work!, i would look at the coolers while there out especially the powersteering cooler as its not easy when the engines are back in, i would remove all water pipes and descale them, also look at the intercooler matrix and degrease the air side of it, renew any o rings where oil leaks are and buy some proper volvo green paint and spray them with a proper spay gun.

2 years ago I re engined a princess 35 with 41s in and last week I saw it again for some work for the first time since, wow it still looked good in fact like a new engine room.

Do all the hard work now it will pay off in the future.

Out of interest where is the boat?.
 
Got shields off now, had to grind off starboard steering arm as needed to get shields away to be refurbed. Still got to try and remove the three pins that hold the steering rack to the tiller, soaked in WD40 but they won't budge! Where would I get the paint for the engines, without going to Volvo main dealer? The boat is at Port Solent marina, Portsmouth.
 
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