Engine (Yanmar 2GM) won’t rev - Diesel Bug?

jcpa

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It was fine on a long passage under motor one week, but next week the engine just wouldn’t rev properly. Speed through the water was down from 5-6 knots to about 3 knots, and progress against the tide was virtually impossible! Can anyone help me sort this out? The checks I’ve done seem to suggest Diesel bug is the main culprit, with sediment build up probably blocking the entrance to a fuel hose. I have cleaned everything reasonably well, but should I fit a pre-filter between the fuel tank and the fuel hose?

My checks started at the primary filter/water separator in the engine room - two metres of hose (with numerous bends to pass through cupboards/lockers/etc) away from the fuel tank that sits under the chart table. The filter seemed not too bad – not obviously clogged, but with some gloop hanging under about a quarter of the base of the filter element. The secondary filter (between lift and high pressure pumps) was totally clear. I anyway replaced both filter elements, but the engine still wouldn’t go above about half speed. On rechecking the primary element, there was no evidence of contamination/blockage, so I had the injectors out and professionally checked (they were fine).

So then I drained the fuel from the tank – down to the level of the supply tap, about 25mm above the tank base. The fuel was a nice clear amber with no sediment, but a couple of rice-grain size dark oily lenses (note, I only use road diesel, about 30 litres a year, brought to the boat in a Jerry can to which I usually, but possibly not always, add Fuel-set at the recommended standard dosage).

However, in the tank base, just below the supply tap, a drain plug allows the final half-litre of fuel to be extracted. It was quite mucky with dark oily pieces of sediment – some quite dense and sticky. Presumably this indicates diesel bug.

By peering through the 25mm tapped hole in the tank top, and poking around with a brush on a long stick, I have managed to clean most of the black deposits from the tank sides – but some areas are inaccessible due to baffle plates.

Some club colleagues have said the tank must be spotlessly clean, others say it is sufficient to get the sediment level well below the supply tap, and avoid new sedimentation by using fuel treatment. Yet more say I should fit a pre-filter in the engine room to stop sediment reaching the primary filter - particularly if I use a biocide that turns any further bug to black sludge.

I agree that a pre-filter may protect the primary filter, but is the effort and cost justified – considering how cheap filter elements are. There is no obvious/suitable siting point in my engine room (more of a cubbyhole under the companion way), and anyway, I think any sediment would more likely clog either at the tank outlet (where a ½ inch BSP tap feeds a 4mm internal diameter hosetail into the fuel hose), or at a bend in the fuel hose to the primary filter (hose now replaced, but the old one didn’t seem to be clogged). If I need a pre-filter, it would seem best to fit it between the fuel tap and the hosetail, but it would need to be a small ‘inline’ filter – the tap is only only about 35mm off the sloping hull-side (approx 45 degrees).

Can anyone comment on this? Does anyone know of possible filters that might be suitable?
 

Kelpie

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As a temporary measure, have you tried blowing the fuel hose (ideally with a compressor) to clear it out?
And do you not have any sort of access hatch in the tank- just the 25mm hole?
 

Spyro

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Do you get a flow from the tank to the primary filter? Take the feed off at the filter and see how much comes out. You don't need a lot. Rig a temporary feed to eliminate supply line problem. Try bleeding again right up to the injectors. Check for a blocked exhaust elbow. Does it rev ok in neutral? could be something around the prop if it's ok in neutral.
 

boatmike

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Your friends are right. There is no compromise on a clean supply and once the dreaded bug has got in there is no substitute for a thorough tank clean. Fitting another filter will just give you something else to get blocked! If you don,t have a proper hatch in your tank top I would bite the bullet and cut one. Then make a plate to cover the hole with a margin around the edge for bolts. Drill and tap holes in the tank to bolt down the plate after cleaning. You can either cut a rubber gasket for it or just seal it with Sikaflex which is fuel resistant. Hopefully you won't ever need to remove it again but if you do you simply cut through the Sikaflex. Clean all lines and filters thoroughly and if you don't have a great deal of fuel it's best to completely remove it and refill with new fuel. Dose with a preventive fuel conditioner. Don't use "enzyme" treatments. They don't prevent new bugs they just kill the ones you have and dump them as sediment on the bottom of your tank ( I know this will provoke comments but that's my experience) Fuel used to be heavily sulphurised to stop bugs but now we have low sulphur fuels its an increasing problem. There are lots of opinions regarding the best but I have used Fuelset for years and found it excellent. Make sure you clean all lines and filter housings as these can be breeding grounds for the bugs too. No compromise. Go for it!
 

lw395

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Adding a small inline filter sounds like a bad idea, you need the first filter to be able to cope with a reasonable amount of crud before it blocks.

The main thing is to empty the tank of dirt and water.
Some means of getting to the very bottom of the tank is needed, whether that's a hatch or removing the tank and turning upside down, or what I use, which is a Pela oil extractor. Heel the boat a bit so one corner of the tank is lowest, then hoover out any water. Doing this twice a season is more use than getting it all spotless and then leaving it for 3 years.
I don't use any additives. I prefer to be able to see the water in the fuel and simply remove it.

I have one use for an inline filter and that's to filter the dirty fuel removed from the bottom of the tank. After it's settled I pour off the clear stuff and filter it back into the tank. I use discarded petrol filters from my EFI motorbike.
 

RichardS

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I'm with Spyro on this one and doubt that the small amount of bug is the problem. I'd blow back through the line from the primary filter to the tank and if that's clear and the filter is largely clear then I doubt whether bug is the problem and Spyro's suggestions are more likely.

Richard
 

lw395

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I'm with Spyro on this one and doubt that the small amount of bug is the problem. I'd blow back through the line from the primary filter to the tank and if that's clear and the filter is largely clear then I doubt whether bug is the problem and Spyro's suggestions are more likely.

Richard

I think Spyro makes sound suggestions.
Equally, I think checking the tank is reasonably free of water and crud is time well spent.

You don't want to clean the fuel hose, then suck a load more crap into it.
 

jcpa

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Thank you all for those comments, I am very grateful that you managed to read through my long original post!

In response:

1. I have no idea how old the old fuel hoses were, but older that the 7 years I’ve had the boat. I’ve now fitted new hoses from tank to primary filter, and on to lift pump. I did blow and then run water through the old hoses to check they were clear. They were, but had been well manipulated by then, so any restrictions/kinks could have been disturbed. Most significant to me was the crud that had collected around the 12mm to 4mm step change in internal diameter at the hosetail. I have now ‘countersunk’ the hosetail entrance to smooth the change and thus (hopefully) avoid any crud build-up. Some larger particles may now to get through into the hose, but they should pass on to the primary filter.

2. The stainless steel fuel tank (capacity 65l) was made for the previous owner to raise capacity over the 25l original. There is no inspection hatch. It is wedged in behind and below the chart table and food storage drawers. All the surrounding gaps are foam filled. The 25mm (approx) tapped hole in the top of the tank was for a gauge to warn when fuel level dropped below some critical level. It never worked for me, and I couldn’t find any replacement with such a small thread size (with additional length and diameter limits due to fittings above the chart table!). I used to knock on the tank to assess fuel level, but have since installed a sight tube.

3. Many thanks for the thoughts on making an inspection hatch – very helpful. It is probably an option for the future, and I am hesitant only because (a) it would have to span the baffle in the tank, and (b) access would still mean removing the chart table (while the 25mm tapped hole is accessed via a 40mm approx hole in the chart table).

4. Thanks for suggesting I rig up a temporary fuel feed – I don’t know why I haven’t – I have seen it suggested before! And yes, the engine only uses 1 l/h at 5 knots. I think the engine revs did rise in neutral (no load), but I don’t have a rev counter. I never tested it fully as it gives black smoke and unburnt fuel in the exhaust, so I didn’t persist. Thanks also for the thoughts on the exhaust elbow and possibly a fouled prop. I fitted a new (stainless) exhaust elbow just under a year ago (old elbow was holed inside), but I have considered checking it again. I have also wondered about the prop, and if I jerry-rig the fuel system I can motor to the drying grid to check!

5. I agree a small inline pre-filter would probably clog very quickly, but I would only want a coarse filter, like a raw water strainer - just big enough to stop sediment getting into the 4mm hosetail. If it was clear plastic (if that is allowed for diesel) and by the fuel tap I would see it whenever I opened and closed the tap. My current primary filter is in a ****ing stupid place. I can’t see it properly, and can hardly reach it. I have to take it apart and reassemble it by touch. I can’t get anything underneath it to drain the lower bowl!

Anyway, thanks again for all your comments and ideas. I will probably just reassemble it as it is and test if it is any better when all is clean up to the lift pump. If not, you’ve given me some new ideas.
 
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Spyro

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I think your black smoke and unburnt fuel might be a clue, if you are getting that in neutral with nomload on the engine you have a problem. I would have suggested the exhaust elbow but as you have changed that a year ago I would think it's unlikely to be the problem. Is your air filter clean? Have you had the injectors tested by a specialist? I get them out and off to a diesel specialist for testing.
 

jcpa

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Hi again Spyro. My air filter is off at the moment - no change. I was trying to eliminate fuel starvation, air starvation, and exhaust restrictions. I do seem to get good water and exhaust flow from the exhaust hull fitting.

The injectors were checked by Panda Engineering in Wallington/Fareham (They are called something else now).

I did have some problems with the remote control lever last year, it wasn't putting the gearbox into reverse, so after a longish time in forward, and me wanting to slow down quickly it just rev'ed up and produced smoke!

I found the culprit (aged friction disc), and sorted that out. Since then, no smoke until the latest loss of power. The remote lever still seems to be ok.

I did wonder if I should check compression while the injectors were out, but I've not got the tools - maybe I need a professional service!
 
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