Engine will not start - advice please

yes, spanner on the crankshaft it is, but make sure she doesn't burst into life and take yer arm off... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

should be easy enough with the plugs out.

and yes, check TDC with a bit of wire down the plug hole, but wip the rocker cover off too to make sure it's TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. Not unheard of for the dizzy to be 180' out if the engine's been frigged with. A lot.
 
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yes, spanner on the crankshaft it is, but make sure she doesn't burst into life and take yer arm off... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

should be easy enough with the plugs out.

and yes, check TDC with a bit of wire down the plug hole, but wip the rocker cover off too to make sure it's TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. Not unheard of for the dizzy to be 180' out if the engine's been frigged with. A lot.

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good stuff... apart from I couldn't find a nut on the crankshaft on this model engine, I'll keep looking.

one thing's for sure, when/if this thing fires up, the nighbours'll hear me whooping a good few decibels above the engine noise.. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I quite like this idea of something being lose in the timing side of thing as that'd give the symptoms I have with it slowly getting worse..
 
Is the engine a straight four? If it is and I the numbers you have represent the lead positions in the cap then I would say you have them in wrong.
If you can see timing marks on the front pulley or flywheel turn the engine until it is at tdc or take no 1 plug out and use a screwdriver to find tdc. at this position no1 or no4 is firing. Have a look in the distributor to see if the rotor arm is facing no1 or no4. Ideally you want to know if no1 or no4 is firing but that is a bit difficult unless you know what you are doing. Make an assumption that no1 or 4 is firing, make another that the firing order is 1,3,4,2 and place the leads in the cap accordingly. If you have flooded her it is worth taking all the plugs out and warming them. If she won't go try changing the firing order to 1,2,4,3 (swap 2,3 round) if no joy repeat with changing your original assumption about which was firing (say 4 instead of 1) then change 2,3 again. Pouring fuel in is a good way to get it to fire up but easy to flood if you put in too much. Time lets fuel evaporate but I would heat the plugs.
The carb is a bit cruddy, carb cleaner helps.
 
thanks, it is a straight 4 and just to reconfirm.. my leads are plugged in to the dist ributor as follows, my inital diagram was wrong..

3 4
1 2

I'm going to go for checking out the timing tomorrow.. if I can't find the nut on the crackshaft, I'll tighten up the alternator belt and use the nit on the alternator to turn the engine..

just read this on another forum which may also be what's happened as the engine didn't fire up after towing it home.

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I tested gas drawn like that and it tested and looked fine,engine even ran without issue. I only found out later after trailering it to the lake and shaking up the tank, there was a ton of crud and water in the gas and the engine would not start.People on the forums will tell you if the boat has been sitting without running for a year or more, just plan on cleaning the tank and the fuel system. I was skeptical since my engine was running on the hose in the driveway, but I am a believer now for sure.

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timing and/or continuing fuel issue seems to be the current favorites (may be I have flooded it and it will miraculously work tomorrow).. here's to hope
 
I think I've found the issue and it's simple simple simple... I hope... slept on it last night and woke up convinced it's the timing now I've cleaned out the carp.. check over things this morning concentrating on the distributor and have notice the dizzy body can move fairly eailsy, I think I've disturbed the timing whilst I've been changing the plugs and cleaning up the points... going to read up on setting the dizzy body in the correct position and then give it a go... finger's are well and truely crossed but this is the first solid evidence I've found of something wrong other than the fuel contamination.
 
Simple solution, if that's the case, and quite plausible. The easiest way to do it as a 'rough and ready' is to find TDC by looking at the rockers/screwdriver down the plug hole, and then just twist the body till the rotor points to the right lead. The timing will be off, but should be close enough for it to cough and splutter.
 
thanks Graham, perfect! Got a little issue to get around first though, the clamp that holds the dizzy in place is actually snapped in two!! it's not a new break either as the crack isn't showing clean metal.. I'll need to source a new clamp before doing a permanent fix but should be able to hold it in pace to carry out some tests as per your guidance for now.
 
I reckon so too.. hopefully it is and I can now get this thing running knowing a little more about the engine and in the knowledge that things are a little cleaner in the fuel line.. one thing's for sure, I'll be looking after the engine a whole lot better than the previous owner
 
Sounds promising. You can use a test light (12v bulb with wires connected or local accessory shop) on the coil to see when the spark will happen, I haven't done it for years so can't remember exactly (couldn't remember even when I did do it regularly!) but from one of the low tension connections to earth. Set the engine to just a little before tdc, turn dizzy until light changes. Depending on how much movement you have this can set to the wrong lead if not careful. When you have the timing set correctly it is a good idea to mark the dizzy position so it can be easily reset if needed.
 
yaahoooooooooo!!! she lives and breaths again /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

thanks so very much for all your great advice gentlemen!
 
it was the timing.. I've made up a temporary bracket, cranked the engine a few inches at a time until the crank pulley mark was at about 8 degree before TDC, guestimated the position to set the dizzy body based on where the rotor now pointed. 1 pump of the remote, set a quarter throttle and up she fired.

need to get my hands on a timing strobe now, threw mine away a couple of decades ago. will also order a new dizzy bracket.

The engine sounds wonderful and appears to have good circulation of water through the outdrive when running. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Next step is to get a full service carried out on the outdrive and possibly the engine but really, the only thing I haven;t done yet is an oil change so may finish off the engine myself and then start reading some more (I have the outdrive service manual but nervous carrying out my own servicing at this stage). I've also noticed the rev counter didn't budge when the engine was up slightly more than idle for a moment.. that'll be the next job along with getting the horn working, the nav lights to come on.. the..................... time to make a long list of things to fix /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

not worried about the electrical bits if I'm honest as I'm in my element there, I was more concerned about not having a running engine.....

happy days............................ for now /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

thanks again for your help, very much appreciated
 
Brilliant, well done. If it makes you feel better my rev counter has a mind of its own. Sometimes it reads nice and steady, then leaps up to full before dropping to zero. Never trust the blinking thing, you'll soon get a feel for when the motor is running the way it wants to.
 
well done Gary
it's nice to know that all the advice you got worked out.
just got my Volvo AQ200 (bought seized) to start and run today-happy days for both of us!
have fun!
 
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