engine stuck

[Its_Only_Money]

Funny this, I put "any shortcuts depend on how much trust you want to have in the unit afterwards and a bit of a gamble on cost"

Which implies that of course there are other possibilities of doing less stripdown, replacing more/less parts and accepting the tradeoff that comes with such a decision.

I don't intend to ignore sixpack because he differs in his view of how best to repair an engine neither of us has ever seen but because he was bl**dy rude. I know enough reasonable, straightforward and openly polite people to not have to bother too much with having to carry on discussions with rude ones - and its not as if my suggestion wouldn't have fixed the problem is it?? Clearly its based on my experience.

Personally I'd feel once the engine has to be stripped it may well be cost effective to do a full rebuild rather than the liner route. (liners can, after all, come loose and I'd be interested to see the real cost saving)

....no, diversity is what is wanted (which is why I get annoyed whenever the "this has been discussed before" response comes up as it has on some other threads). But I see no reason to get instantly rude (sixpack), or resort to personal comments/attacks (yourself).

Oh and why IS the ignore feature there then.....? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Col]

I would try to free it first in the manner others have suggested. You have nothing to loose.
Don't be afraid by all the talk of broken rings / rebores / liners / rebuilds.
If it frees off, Fine. You will soon know if you have problems or not as you will suffer heavy "crankcase breathing" through the oil filler cap.
If you are still unsure after you have freed it and run it for a while, you can always compression test all cylinders. If all OK do an oil change (to clear out WD40 and rust residue) Only after un-successfully trying to free it would I look to strip it.

Be aware that your engine has no clutch on the flywheel, so a seized leg / outdrive can give the same symptoms. You would be really happy if you stripped engine down only to find nothing wrong with it.
Let us know how you get on.

 

[Dave_Snelson]

I have two of these and...

...they don't just stick. They are a GM block and are quite reliable provided you:-

a) change the oil at the end of the season, as this does two things - new oil to protect over winter and you can see if there has been any water ingress into the old oil when removed. Water ingress makes engines stick if left long enough.

b) ditto the above with the drive leg. Can you rotate the props with the engine out of gear? (only tests part of the leg).

Are you sure that it isn't just your stater motor thats stuck? They are located virtually under the engine and if you get them wet, they can stick.

Keep us posted, and welcome aboard!