Engine Replacement Project

[ghostlymoron]

As a naturally cautious engineer with some experience of lifting heavy things, I would advise you to inspect carefully all lifting tackle and double up where ever possible.
(That sounds a bit like teaching to suck eggs but I would hate for something to go wrong - which I'm sure it won't)

 

[steveeasy]

My advice with the absolute best intentions is, hire a matbro or a crane. 1 hour, few quid, job done. that's a fair sized engine, the risk to your boat and helpers and yourself is significant. I always try to shortcut and save, but I just don't think this sounds a good idea. Good luck though with whatever you decide.

steveeasy

 

[Jokani]

Today went well, engine out, only some slight damage to the hatch trim, a lesson learnt there, protect a bigger area than you think necessary! But overall pleased with progress:

The mast and boom seemed more than up to the job, my guess it it could take quite a bit more weight than an MD2B. Now I have done it once I'd be happy to do it again.

So far it has taken 3 days to get to this stage, sure the yard would have done it in less than 1, but learning lots in the process and not regretting taking on myself. But, plenty more to do yet.

Next stage in the project, engine bearers. Will post on that tomorrow.

 

[steveeasy]

That's Great, I just could not bear the thought of it going through your hull. Hope the new one goes in as easy.

Steveeasy

 

[seaangler23]

New engine arrived today - Whoop whoop!

Just looking at the cooling system. specifically ordering some new intake hose.

All the pipe work (seacock, strainer, anti-siphon) uses 19mm ID pipe, with the exception of the gearbox inlet and outlet tails, these are 16mm ID.

A trial fit with some 19mm pipe, and it is looser than I think would be acceptable.

The gearbox is a MS2B, I have had a look around and cannot find any replacement tails at all, let alone 19mm ones.

What is the best solution to this problem?

You should be able to get a hose connector/reducer, I got a nice brass one the other day which was good quality but I do see it as another possible leak path and for a tidy install I try avoid them, look and see if you can get replacements or if possible take them off and get some new tails braised on instead

 

[Jokani]

Engine Bearer Dilemma

The original plan was to remove the existing engine bearers, galvanise and re-use.
However the existing bearers have square holes (not needed for the new mounts) that are where the new mounting bolts need to be.

The best plan I have at the moment is:

1) To acquire new engine bearers using the old as a template.

2) Temporarily fit the new bearers

3) Place the engine on the bearers to check alignment and for/aft positioning, if I'm lucky and can work with the existing position of the bearers, I can fit the bearers permanently.

4) Drill new engine mount bolt holes and start connecting,

Is there a better way forward?

 

[seaangler23]

Sounds a good plan, any way it's going to be trail and error, you could compare the 2 engines when you have them side by side to give you a better idea of where everything will lie, old bearers just look like angle iron so should be easy to find

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Am I being stupid or blind. Your gearbox looks as if is the "down angle" version.

Anyway well done so far.

 

[Jokani]

Am I being stupid or blind. Your gearbox looks as if is the "down angle" version.

Definitely just spoilt my weekend! I didn't know they made different versions. Look at it you are right, it dos have an angle to it:

To be honest, I'm a bit stunned, unsure what to do now.

I purchased from Marine Enterprises they did not make me aware that this was a 'Down Angle ' version. Is it possible Westerly Centaurs usually have down angle versions?

 

[fredrussell]

Isn't it just a question of getting in touch with Marine Enterprises and exchanging that gearbox with a correct one?

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Definitely just spoilt my weekend! I didn't know they made different versions. Look at it you are right, it dos have an angle to it:

To be honest, I'm a bit stunned, unsure what to do now.

I purchased from Marine Enterprises they did not make me aware that this was a 'Down Angle ' version. Is it possible Westerly Centaurs usually have down angle versions?

Garry, its not a problem at all. Sorry to pixx on your parade. In fact it is a benefit.

All it means is your angle iron bearers need to be horizontal. It will be fine, just watch the sump but i am sure it will be ok as the bilge drops away towards the bow.

 

[Tranona]

Definitely just spoilt my weekend! I didn't know they made different versions. Look at it you are right, it dos have an angle to it:

To be honest, I'm a bit stunned, unsure what to do now.

I purchased from Marine Enterprises they did not make me aware that this was a 'Down Angle ' version. Is it possible Westerly Centaurs usually have down angle versions?

7 degrees down angle so you will need to flatten your engine beds to take this into account. Expect the existing beds are built for 10 degrees so will need reducing to 3. worth doing rather than changing the box as the engine will end up lower and flatter, which is the reason for the down angle box in the first place.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Garry if my maths is correct, draw a line on the engine bearer some 18"in length from the rearmost mounting bolt hole to the front hole with the 18" being measured from the rear bolt hole. This is your datum.

You now need to draw a second line 7 degrees lower from the rear hole, To do this measure 18" from the rear hole along the line and mark a radius down from the 18" mark. You need to make this radius about 3".

My calcs say that if you measure down from the 18" point on the radius a distance of 2.2" and then draw your new line on which you will drill the mounting hole for the angle iron engine bed. (I think) Will check the calcs after the effects of some red wine have worn off.

Let the force be with you

 

[chrishelen]

Interesting thread. I replaced a perfectly good petter for a volvo 2001 on my old Eventide, what I didn't know was that the ms2b gearbox was the down angle type!!! So..... much chopping and changing of engine beds to suit.
I think I made new beds for my Eventide out of 2 inch angle iron..just a case of measures the angle of your beds and take 7 degree off.

 

[Jokani]

Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like having a down angle MS2B is not the end of the world

I'll get the engine bay cleaned and painted, order some new bearers, reduce the angle by 7 degrees and go for a trial fit. Whilst I'm doing this I'll read up as much as I can about engine alignment.

 

[Tranona]

The important thing to remember is that your coupling on the prop shaft is the fixed point so that as already suggested is the datum point for mounting the engine so that the coupling on the gearbox ends up square against that. You will of course have scope for minor adjustments by raising or lowering the adjustable mounts or moving slightly side to side using the slots in the mount bases. The aim with your fixed bearers is to have all these adjustable points near to the centre of their range.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Just a further point about the angle iron bearers. If you were to simply refit them using the rear hole and a new lower hole at the front, the coupling flage would be lifted at the rear as the engine would pivot round the rear bolt holes.
Might be an idea to refit the existing angle iron bearers and mark along the top so that you have a visible datum line which you can set up the new angle irons.
Other thought is that a metal work shop could weld in steel sections to fill in the square holes of your existing angles.
Last point is that it would be worthwhile getting the installation drawings for both engines and set out the centre lines so you can work out the + & - of the two engines.

 

[chrishelen]

When I made the same mistake with my 'new' engine, I used cardboard template's and trimmed them up until we got I correct.

 

[Tranona]

When I made the same mistake with my 'new' engine, I used cardboard template's and trimmed them up until we got I correct.

I used a 1" broom stick for the centre line of the gearbox output are two transverse webs at the fore and aft positions of the mounts to establish where the mounts would fall on the beds. All dimensions taken from the installation drawings of the engine. Broomstick stuck down the stern tube ensures that the engine ends up in alignment. You can add additional dimensioned webs to identify critical clearance points.