Engine removal hoist

mogmog2

mogmog2

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It looks like I'm going to have to remove the engine from our Centaur. It is the original MD2B, which I gather weighs about 250kg.
I was looking at chain hoists and recalled that even dinghy blocks can be rated in 3 figures of kg loading. Subject to checking on the boat that I have what I think I have, my Selden mainsheet system (405-001-07) has a SWL 650kg and a breaking load of 1300kg. My 10mm marlowbraid has a breaking strain of 2600kg. Presumably the cam cleats can cope with these loads. It would seem to me that the engine is relatively small beer compared to these values.

Any reason not to use this to lift the engine? Maybe a chain hoist is a little bit easier to use but anything else?
Many thanks.
 
Hi
I removed and 're installed yanmar 2GM this winter and YSE 4 yrs ago on previous yacht. Each weigh about 120kg IIRC. Used 6:1 purchase onto boom with main halyards and topping lifts to same point on boom, no problem with loading, but needed good gloves to grip rope (solo). Am sure cam cleats good idea. I also removed md2b 30 yrs ago used quayside crane, as you say a lot heavier esp flywheel, tried seperating in boat failed, needed 20 ton hydraulic kit, engine shot 6 feet across floor when they seperated.
For your weight I would consider a manual trailer winch arranged off boom instead maybe, but mainsheet may be ok if several helpers. Controlling descent over side may be trickiest.....ply sheets to sit engine in cockpit helpful.
For 2GM I welded up a c arm from some spare box section to allow direct lift as cockpit floor extended forward of engine lift point.
Hope helpful.
 
I didn't have the option of using the boom - for the mast was down - and although I have two manual chain hoists, I chose the convenience of a Lidl 'Parkside' electric winch and a pair of extendable builders' trestles to lift and shift an old marinised Kubota tractor unit 'up, along, out and down'. I guess its weight is similar to the OP's unit.

I think I got it about right, for I still have all my fingers.


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The new Beta unit went in the same way. At about half the weight, it was considerably easier....
 
Having shifted several engines over the years, I learned the hard way to use a self locking lifting system, i.e with some sort of ratchet device to hold the weight if things go pearshaped during the lift. Mainsheet blocks will take the weight, but can be quite difficult to control with that sort of load. My favourite is a ratchet lever winch for this job as it gives complete control throughout the lift.
 
I removed a Bukh dv 20 from ours by firstly borrowing a chain hoist the after the usual unbolting, put a 8x4 across the companionway hatch where the chain hoist was secured.
Lifting the engine into the cabin where I stripped all the heavy parts off (ps forgot to say flywheel came of when in situ) gearbox, starter motor, alternator etc etc., as I didn’t want 230kg hanging off the boom.
Attached a halyard the the lifting point on the boom to mast head to take and strain locally on the boom, chain hoisted the engine to cockpit swung over the side and lowered to a waiting trailer.
 
Chain hoist from Amazon/Ebay; cheap, certified and requiring an 'Action' by the operator to make anything move up or down.
 
I've used various options weight dependant.

If its 250kg then I would avoid using the boom if at all possible. However if its the only option, make sure you run and lash a halyard directly over the lifting point. And then a block and tackle 'handy billy' to lift the engine itself. Personally I wouldn't be happy with 250kg directly coming from my masthead at an angle. (But I'm fractional so the masthead is unsupported)

The only other option without hiring a mobile crane is a big piece of timber across the hatchway as a lifting point, this will get the engine out, at this point you have the option of building some sort of structure to take the weight and lift it out of the boat. Or if scrapping it, I'd dismantle it in situ and remove all the parts separately.

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Spyro said:
Could you split it up and make it considerably lighter. Remove the alternator, starter and gearbox?
Click to expand...

I can't get the gearbox off, that's why it needs to come out. The two bolts I can actually see (pic) have rusted to no recognisable size & there is not room for Mole grips, Dremel or oscillating tool. My plan is to remove it & cut the bolt heads off with any of the aforementioned. There are two more bolts under & and I can't even find them by feel: not promising

Access for any components is not fun and the flywheel is the main item that would make a difference. My research suggests that the flywheel needs a very long breaker bar (5' in one case) & large socket to remove. Also not fun to re-torque correctly & the price for getting it wrong is not good.

If I've got to pick up a hoist, seems a lot of effort for only a little gain.
 

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... and how much would it actually cost to hire a small mobile crane and operator ( surely the smallest crane would do, even one of those on a flat bed lorry) to lift the old engine out and on to a trailer and the new engine in. I doubt it would take more than 2 hours, probably cheaper than you think. Admittedly this wouldn't be economic if you are cant do the Out and In at the same time.
 
mogmog2 said:
I can't get the gearbox off, that's why it needs to come out. The two bolts I can actually see (pic) have rusted to no recognisable size & there is not room for Mole grips, Dremel or oscillating tool. My plan is to remove it & cut the bolt heads off with any of the aforementioned. There are two more bolts under & and I can't even find them by feel: not promising

Access for any components is not fun and the flywheel is the main item that would make a difference. My research suggests that the flywheel needs a very long breaker bar (5' in one case) & large socket to remove. Also not fun to re-torque correctly & the price for getting it wrong is not good.

If I've got to pick up a hoist, seems a lot of effort for only a little gain.
Click to expand...

is it your intention to remove the engine completely to either repair in a workshop or replace, or do you just want access to the gearbox?

If the latter then a beam across the companionway and a hoist will enable you to bring it all forward into the cabin to take the gearbox off.
 
Rafiki said:
... and how much would it actually cost to hire a small mobile crane and operator ( surely the smallest crane would do, even one of those on a flat bed lorry) to lift the old engine out and on to a trailer and the new engine in...
Click to expand...

Problems there. You need clear access for a crane jib to swing in and out. With a HIAB, it's hard to get a truly vertical lift, and not always possible to get the fine control that's needed.

Also, a gantry rigged in-situ won't be affected by any movement of the boat.
 
s-l1600.jpg

This what I used. 4000kgs capacity, Currently on fleabay at £65. Makes light work of a few 100kgs of engine and allows the complete control needed to avoid damage to yourself, your boat or the engine. Cheaper lower capacity ones rated 800kgs from Screwfix at £35. The gearing is lower so less easy to use, but for a one off, should do the job for 250kgs of engine!
 
blan321 said:
Hi
I removed and 're installed yanmar 2GM this winter and YSE 4 yrs ago on previous yacht. Each weigh about 120kg IIRC. Used 6:1 purchase onto boom with main halyards and topping lifts to same point on boom, no problem with loading, but needed good gloves to grip rope (solo). Am sure cam cleats good idea. I also removed md2b 30 yrs ago used quayside crane, as you say a lot heavier esp flywheel, tried seperating in boat failed, needed 20 ton hydraulic kit, engine shot 6 feet across floor when they seperated.
For your weight I would consider a manual trailer winch arranged off boom instead maybe, but mainsheet may be ok if several helpers. Controlling descent over side may be trickiest.....ply sheets to sit engine in cockpit helpful.
For 2GM I welded up a c arm from some spare box section to allow direct lift as cockpit floor extended forward of engine lift point.
Hope helpful.
Click to expand...

Blan321. Very helpful thanks. I'm sure I can rustle up a gang from the club to help haul the beastie. I was a bit concerned about the control /grip aspect. If a reasonable chain hoist comes up in time, I'll go for that.
 
oldharry said:
Having shifted several engines over the years, I learned the hard way to use a self locking lifting system, i.e with some sort of ratchet device to hold the weight if things go pearshaped during the lift. Mainsheet blocks will take the weight, but can be quite difficult to control with that sort of load. My favourite is a ratchet lever winch for this job as it gives complete control throughout the lift.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Control was one of my concerns. With a 6:1 system, we should have 41kg to lift (plus friction), which doesn't sound overly bad especially if I can get some helpers. Shorthanded I wouldn't try it.
 
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