Engine hours

That puts things into perspective!
Be interesting to know if the 73k hour engine has ever had any significant work done.
 
fisherman said:
Often see questions about reasonable endurance, my own at 14000 seems a lot compared to some of you, but how about the 73,000 on one of the engines here:
Boats for sale UK, boats for sale, used boat sales, Commercial Vessels For Sale 26.5m Floating Bridge-Chain Ferry - car and passengers - Apollo Duck
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Be interesting to know the hours on People’s boats.
Ive done 1280 in mine in about 6 years.
Hours before that unknown, but when I bought the boat compressions were within 5% of new and I had all new injectors etc so set the hours to zero.
I saw a boat for sale with 3000 on recently and it was immaculate. The engine bay was like a boat show boat. But that was enough hours to affect saleability. What engines do you have 14,000 on?
 
1160hrs on my MAN D2842 engines in 14yrs and a hell of a lot more on the generator, around 3500hrs IIRC
 
950 on MAN 2876s .
Geny hrs meter has packed up or I can not figure ( not been trying tbh ) how to view them .

I have not thought about the hrs thing much . keep a detailed history though fwiw ?
 
Portofino said:
I have not thought about the hrs thing much . keep a detailed history though fwiw ?
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Dunno whether you are referring to engine or genny hours but I keep a detailed record of engine hours via the ship's log but I only know about the genny hours because the hourmeter is right next to the on/off switch. The genny does get serviced every year like the engines

Not sure whether 3500hrs is high for a genny or not to be honest?
 
Deleted User said:
Dunno whether you are referring to engine or genny hours but I keep a detailed record of engine hours via the ship's log but I only know about the genny hours because the hourmeter is right next to the on/off switch. The genny does get serviced every year like the engines

Not sure whether 3500hrs is high for a genny or not to be honest?
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Main engines .
I would not worry about 3500 hrs on a Yanmar mine or yours Kubota small diesel , that’s been correctly maintained.
Frequent use is there friend in a marine environment.
 
Portofino said:
I would not worry about 3500 hrs on a Yanmar mine or yours Kubota small diesel , that’s been correctly maintained.
Frequent use is there friend in a marine environment.
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Mine is a Yanmar. So when it packs up, I'll call you (y)
 
MapisM said:
Agreed - just fit the BodgeFlow system, first and foremost.
You know you really should!
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Mmm from what little I know of the BodgeFlow system, it could cause more problems than it fixes

How about you describe how it works?
 
On the matter of hours in general, I've yet to come across a single pleasure boat where the hours would have scared me - neither on mains nor or genset(s).
Lack of use and maintenance definitely are much more concerning, as already mentioned, but I'll throw in another factor, i.e. time.
Some bits, particularly the rubber ones, are subject to wear out also due to age alone, regardless of the engine hours.
Luckily, they are normally easy to spot, but not always.

Going (just slightly) o/t, did anyone of you folks ever checked the hours on the A/C chiller(s)?
For those who have the rather popular Condaria system, it's sufficient to keep pressed for a few seconds the C1 or the C2 button while the unit is off, and the display will show the number of hours of compressor #1 and #2 respectively.
 
Deleted User said:
How about you describe how it works?
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How it works is dead easy: by running mains/genset with fresh rather than salt water, whenever the boat is going to sit unused for some time.
For further details, gimme a minute to find the relevant thread and I'll link it.

Edit: Here it is, from post #41 onward.
 
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MapisM said:
On the matter of hours in general, I've yet to come across a single pleasure boat where the hours would have scared me - neither on mains nor or genset(s).
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Subject to the usual caveat when we have a conversation like this. High engine hours may not be an issue for the engines themselves, assuming they have been serviced regularly, but high engine hours probably also means that the rest of the boat has been well used which very likely means that the interior will show more signs of wear and the rest of the equipment onboard eg pumps, a/c, fridges etc are nearer the end of their useful lives

And one thing is inescapable. The used boat market values boats with higher engine hours at lower prices so whilst nobody should be scared of boats with higher than average hours, they should make sure they pay less for them
 
Yup, market does value engine hours significantly.
That's indeed one of the reasons why I was happy to buy the current boat, whose hours on mains were among the highest (relative to her age) I came across in my search! (y) :)
 
MapisM said:
How it works is dead easy: by running mains/genset with fresh rather than salt water, whenever the boat is going to sit unused for some time.
For further details, gimme a minute to find the relevant thread and I'll link it.

Edit: Here it is, from post #41 onward.
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Thanks. For some reason I missed that thread first time round. Actually I know the reason why but I can't say on here. I shall wade through it tonight
 
MapisM said:
How it works is dead easy: by running mains/genset with fresh rather than salt water.
For further details, gimme a minute to find the relevant thread and I'll link it.

Edit: Here it is, from post #41 onward.
Click to expand...
My geny is air cooled and seawater cooler rads are a few hundred euros and anode protected .Even the exhaust manifold is SSteel ., its pump is brass or what ever ? What can possibly go wrong from a corrosion pov , since 2001 .....erh nothing .
Sea water never touches the engine or geny windings it can’t .

Mike‘s is only a conventional little HE about the price of a guess less than €1K every blue moon .

As hopefully your link shows MAN s are hull anode protected and Mikes boat like mine lives in the sea except for 1 week .
Those anodes work fine on my boat Zero corrosion. They are not reliant on pencil anodes with continuity issues from drain downs and air gaps , or have HE / CAC s made from wildly dissimilar metals either , like a well know American manufacturer, who’s cartoon character’s partner is a mouse called Jerry ,

The only minor thing is the salting up of the HE,s .On that you have a theoretical point with a fresh flush of the mains .
I concede after a long lay up without a run , the jacket temps run a degree or two up for the first hour of two .But after a good blast ( its not I am in the artic either Itama’s are not that :) fast ) they drop back down .
Its as if the shear volume of water at 1750 / 1800 rpm for the first few hours flushes out any 5hit .
So a 86 drops to 84 all day until it’s parked up for an extended spell .
That might be a 2876 specific thing , the water pump is I suspect over sized .I know this because @ tick over they drop further to 79 / 80 even .The stats are fine btw .

It’s useful for pencil anode protected engines who’s cooling system is on the edge .
On both counts , the corrosion and the HE efficiency agree !

Not convinced MAN s need it .

You need to differentiate between the anode protection systems , and calibre of metallography .
 
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