Engine hours

One thing I always looked after was the antifreeze, never added water, just antifreeze, also collected the overflow and put it back in. Some engines are very dependent on it for corrosion prevention.
 
One thing I always looked after was the antifreeze, never added water, just antifreeze, also collected the overflow and put it back in. Some engines are very dependent on it for corrosion prevention.
John Deere engines in particular will eat themselves from the inside out if you use water. Pure coolant only for them.
 
Not convinced MAN s need it.
Well, if you put it this way, I can't disagree.
"Need" is a big word, and obviously all marine engines (not just MANs) are designed for a decent longevity regardless of any BodgeFlow system.
OTOH, it's not like it takes a lot of money/hassle/time to fit the BodgFlow...
If it would save me just one single heat exchanger/aftercooler cleaning, it will have paid for itself 100 times over!
 
Well, if you put it this way, I can't disagree.
"Need" is a big word, and obviously all marine engines (not just MANs) are designed for a decent longevity regardless of any BodgeFlow system.
OTOH, it's not like it takes a lot of money/hassle/time to fit the BodgFlow...
If it would save me just one single heat exchanger/aftercooler cleaning, it will have paid for itself 100 times over!
It’s all in the link you have added ^^^ .
They usually need cleaning both sides btw , especially the oil from fins of the CAC with some brands .

Except the cost benefit risk which your last para introduces .
Cock up the timings , engine off or engine on , water on water off ......sprinkle in the exhaust shower head design , the position of the water injection point relative to the turbo and any open exhaust valves when the engines off ( and hot btw ) .....toss in annoying boat wake usually never far away in a busy summer marina and hey presto it’s suddenly become very expensive, very expensive indeed .

Anyhow one benefit is for a potential buyer of a boat with bigger engines it’s a prognostic indicator of a forumites boat .He’s on here . :)
 
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Its as if the shear volume of water at 1750 / 1800 rpm for the first few hours flushes out any 5hit .
My waterpump turns a lot faster than it maybe should, but after 37 years the rubber impellor is original and last year i had my first look into the seawater side of the heat exchanger and it was like it was only fitted last year internally !
never added water, just antifreeze
Im presuming there is also water content as water is the best by far coolant, antifreeze is not really a coolant but is a corrosion inhibitor.
Many antifreeze solutions come pre mixed with water and i think 50% antifreeze is the most you should go
 
Except the cost benefit risk which your last para introduces
...
I can't understand what you are implying ref. the risk of water reversal.
I never envisaged the BodgeFlow use with pressurized fresh water alone, without turning the engine on.

Or maybe you have an idea of the actual BodgeFlow use more complicated than it really is.
Whenever I want to flush an engine, I stay in the e/r, and ask the Admiral to turn that engine on. As soon as it starts, I open the fresh water valve.
Same in reverse after 5 mins or whatever for engine shutdown & stop fresh water flow.
Essentially, the engine begins/ends sucking fresh water exactly in the same way and timing that it would with sea water from the seacock.

I guess you could still cock-up something if you really want to, but it takes some commitment! :unsure:
 
@ MapisM. Actually the cooling apparatus is not really what this thread is about because at the end of the day they are bolt ons anyhow .
The closed coolant , or lack of regular change / refresh brought up by Fisherman on 14 K hrs is more important.
As once the block starts to become porus and water and oil contaminate the end soon arrives .

So I refresh mine annually , apparently the additive anti corrosion package is time limited .

Also a bit geeky you get with the super high compression ratio with diesels a lot of cavitation ( with with wet liners ) of the linner walls in contact with the coolant .There is another additive package to minimise liner cavitation with degrades and needs renewing / refreshing / replacing etc .

This is over and above regular lubrication changes , thats a given .
 
Im presuming there is also water content as water is the best by far coolant, antifreeze is not really a coolant but is a corrosion inhibitor.
Many antifreeze solutions come pre mixed with water and i think 50% antifreeze is the most you should go
Yes, if I had found excessive A/F consumption I would have had to be more careful. If you fill the heat exchanger to the brim on that Ford it will spit out the excess until the level is correct as Mermaid advised me, inch or two down.
 
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