Engine cooling thermostat, how does it work

Absolutely.
Btw, that's exactly what mechanics do whenever they need to test a boat on the hard - either by opening the strainer lid and putting the hose inside it, or putting the hose anywhere else there might be a convenient point to connect it.

PS: of course, the principle of sticking to very low rpm still stands.
 
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I do this all the time with generator when the shipyard shore power is weak. I can run gensets as much as I want/Indefinitely on dock hosepipe. Never tried main engines. Too loud exhaust I expect!
 
jfm said:
I do this all the time with generator when the shipyard shore power is weak. I can run gensets as much as I want/Indefinitely on dock hosepipe. Never tried main engines. Too loud exhaust I expect!
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The super yachts do something similar to run the ac when in dry dock.

Not a metered water supply then !
 
I want to start my engine on the hard to test the engine instruments. I only have a very feeble water supply, so I was thinking of removing the impeller and running it for 10 seconds to do the test then to shut down. I think it should be OK, or have I missed something?
 
Just 10 seconds shouldn't be a problem, by and large.
But impeller aside, the first risk when running an engine dry is to melt the the rubber bits of the exhaust, which are supposed to run wet.
Well, in most boats, anyway - Nordhavns with dry stack being an exception, for instance.
 
Isn't this a classic case where the standard BodgeFlow™ system would be Ideal?? Obviously the BodgeFlow-Gold™©® would be better (direct from tank setup) and the BodgeFlow-Ultra™©® (direct from tank with watermaker and softener) would be even better again!

The BodgeFlow-UltraLumi™©® would just be showing off (imho) ;):encouragement::cool:
 
MapisM said:
Just 10 seconds shouldn't be a problem, by and large.
But impeller aside, the first risk when running an engine dry is to melt the the rubber bits of the exhaust, which are supposed to run wet.
Well, in most boats, anyway - Nordhavns with dry stack being an exception, for instance.
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The plastic bits might not even last as long as the rubber bits !
 
One thing I like of the asylum is that it proves beyond reasonable doubt that OCD is not actually a mental disorder, but a normal and rather widespread condition. Which, as recognized also by modern evolutionary psychology, is not worth trying to repress. :rolleyes:

So, I thought that someone might appreciate a refinement (albeit very minor) which I just introduced in my BF™, also because it affects one component which I suggested here previously, i.e. the Gardena Profi bit.
In fact, I just came across a different version of their quick coupling connectors, which includes a valve.
That allowed me to simplify the flushing hose from the Mk1 version in the first pic below which I previously posted, to the Mk2 that follows.
The connector+valve bit is the Gardena Profi "2819-20", and has exactly the same flow passage as the simpler version.
So, as soon as I found it, OCD took over and I had to get one to replace the previous connector with separate valve.
Which will still have its place anyhow, because high flow hoses+connectors are addictive, once you get used to them... :cool:

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Maybe a tad pedantic and a little OCD but it is nice to see ™ being portrayed correctly lol.:encouragement::cool: (takes a while to work it out lol)
 
MapisM said:
See? My point exactly! :encouragement: :D
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I think your strainer side valve needs to be locked shut with a tie wrap or rope or you can buy a locking type. One day it might get knocked open, maybe by a loose object. Alternatively, leave the hose plugged in all the time. If looking for perfection....
 
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Does the water have to go a hole like this being a Gardena push fit ?

Have you tried it out yet , sorry if I,am repeating a question already answered ^^^ further up ?
 
Zing said:
I think your strainer side valve needs to be locked shut with a tie wrap or rope or you can buy a locking type. One day it might get knocked open, maybe by a loose object. Alternatively, leave the hose plugged in all the time. If looking for perfection....
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Good point.
I already had a couple of 3/4" Maestrini bronze valves on hand when the installation was made, and it was a pity not to use them.
So, I didn't bother looking for some lockable ones.
During the delivery trip last year, before making longish passages, I simply removed the handles.
Nowadays, I don't get out of bed in any conditions where a flute of bubbles might fall of the table... :cool:
...which in turn, makes me pretty confident to not have anything flying across the e/r! :encouragement:
 
Portofino said:
Does the water have to go a hole like this being a Gardena push fit ?
Have you tried it out yet , sorry if I,am repeating a question already answered ^^^ further up ?
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The push fit in your pic doesn't look like one of the Gardena "Profi" line, so I guess that the hole is 9mm, as opposed to 14mm of mine.
In a previous post, jfm calculated that the first is good for 60 L/min, vs. 140 of the latter.
And yes, of course I did try it - regularly.
But most importantly, jfm also did, and confirmed that even with his 60 L/min fits, the flow can cope with the demand of the C32 pump.
 
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