davidportwain
Active Member
Is anyone familiar enough with a VP D1-20 to tell whether there is, and if so where there is an engine anode ? I cant see one anywhere.
engine anode
- Thread starter davidportwain
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VicS
Well-Known Member
The engine is fresh water cooled isn't it? You would not expect an anode.
No mention of one in the heat exchanger in the parts lists or the owners manual either!
No mention of one in the heat exchanger in the parts lists or the owners manual either!
sailorman
Well-Known Member
I have a Nanni 4150 it doesnt have an anode
the Beta version does & i belive the engine gobbles them up in no time.
i am told the Nanni is better marinized than the Beta
the Beta version does & i belive the engine gobbles them up in no time.
i am told the Nanni is better marinized than the Beta
VicS
Well-Known Member
Not sure of the relevance of the Betas and and the Nannies but perhaps I should have explained a little better.
Cathodic protection, in the form of an anode is desirable in the case of salt water cooled engines although many old ones which were designed for salt water cooling, the old Volvos for example, did not have anodes. Marinised engines should almost certainly an anode if salt water cooled.
With fresh water cooling it is normal for the cooling circuit to contain antifreeze or a corrosion inhibitor. Cathodic protection is not therefore needed. Some engines that can be operated as either fresh water cooled or salt water cooled may still be fitted with the anode when fresh water cooled but it is not necessary. I know of no popular car engines which have anodes!
It depends on the materials of course but an anode may be fitted in the salt water side of a heat exchanger.
In the case of the VP D1-20 it is supplied as a fresh water cooled package (with no anode in the engine) and as far as I can see from the parts lists and the owners manual not one in the heat exchanger either.
I quick look at the owners manual on the VP website will show that it does include the drive and prop anodes of S drives in the routine maintenance.
Cathodic protection, in the form of an anode is desirable in the case of salt water cooled engines although many old ones which were designed for salt water cooling, the old Volvos for example, did not have anodes. Marinised engines should almost certainly an anode if salt water cooled.
With fresh water cooling it is normal for the cooling circuit to contain antifreeze or a corrosion inhibitor. Cathodic protection is not therefore needed. Some engines that can be operated as either fresh water cooled or salt water cooled may still be fitted with the anode when fresh water cooled but it is not necessary. I know of no popular car engines which have anodes!
It depends on the materials of course but an anode may be fitted in the salt water side of a heat exchanger.
In the case of the VP D1-20 it is supplied as a fresh water cooled package (with no anode in the engine) and as far as I can see from the parts lists and the owners manual not one in the heat exchanger either.
I quick look at the owners manual on the VP website will show that it does include the drive and prop anodes of S drives in the routine maintenance.
majdrew
Well-Known Member
Does the Yanmar 1GM10 have an annode normally?
I have a steel boat, and my engine has no annode.
I have a steel boat, and my engine has no annode.
KenMcCulloch
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Does the Yanmar 1GM10 have an annode normally?
I have a steel boat, and my engine has no annode.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes a Yanmar 1GM has an internal anode. It's attached to an elliptical plate bolted to the cylinder block below the injector.
Does the Yanmar 1GM10 have an annode normally?
I have a steel boat, and my engine has no annode.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes a Yanmar 1GM has an internal anode. It's attached to an elliptical plate bolted to the cylinder block below the injector.
majdrew
Well-Known Member
Really? that's interesting, I'll have to take a look now..! Thanks!
VicS
Well-Known Member
The anode in the GM series is mentioned in THIS MANUAL, section 4.3.4, but the diagram referred to does not seem to be there. It is also only applicable to the saltwater circuit of an indirectly cooled engine as far as i can see.
najsmith
Well-Known Member
For those just discovering they have annodes in their engine block
General recomendaitn is to replace annually if current anode is waisted beyond 50%.
If it is, wire bush any film/rubbish on it, give the bolt going into the block plenty of w/proof grease and tighten up. You'll be grateful for the assistance of the grease by the end of the season!
General recomendaitn is to replace annually if current anode is waisted beyond 50%.
If it is, wire bush any film/rubbish on it, give the bolt going into the block plenty of w/proof grease and tighten up. You'll be grateful for the assistance of the grease by the end of the season!
Tranona
Well-Known Member
On the 1GM as already posted it is cunningly hidden just aft of the alternator - but once you know where it is can be replaced easily, particularly if you take the alternator off.
On the 2GM and 3GM raw water cooled the anode is screwed into a housing at the back of the cylinder head. Again easy if you have access to the back of the engine.
No anodes on the freshwater cooled models. The housing and anode is replaced with a new housing if a raw water engine is converted to fresh using the Yanmar kit (2 and 3GM only).
All the above well explained and illustrated in the official Yanmar manual.
On the 2GM and 3GM raw water cooled the anode is screwed into a housing at the back of the cylinder head. Again easy if you have access to the back of the engine.
No anodes on the freshwater cooled models. The housing and anode is replaced with a new housing if a raw water engine is converted to fresh using the Yanmar kit (2 and 3GM only).
All the above well explained and illustrated in the official Yanmar manual.
alan_d
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
... give the bolt going into the block plenty of w/proof grease and tighten up. You'll be grateful for the assistance of the grease by the end of the season!
[/ QUOTE ]
Umm, would that not run the risk of stopping it working? Surely there needs to be good electrical contact between the anode and the engine block?
Alan
... give the bolt going into the block plenty of w/proof grease and tighten up. You'll be grateful for the assistance of the grease by the end of the season!
[/ QUOTE ]
Umm, would that not run the risk of stopping it working? Surely there needs to be good electrical contact between the anode and the engine block?
Alan
najsmith
Well-Known Member
Can only say there was plenty of wear on my anode last season, so I've taken the same approach again.
