Engine Anode Weeping

[down...2 greens]

I have a screw-in pencil anode on my engine (VP2001) and no matter how much I tighten it there always seems to be a slight weep of water escaping, which shows up as a white salt crust. Is there any way I can seal it better (grease? silicone?) or would any sealant just stop the anode working properly?

Thanks!

 

[penfold]

IIRC it's a BSP tapered thread, it shouldn't need sealing but a smear of something like Hylomar or similar non-setting sealant won't do any harm.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

I have a screw-in pencil anode on my engine (VP2001) and no matter how much I tighten it there always seems to be a slight weep of water escaping, which shows up as a white salt crust. Is there any way I can seal it better (grease? silicone?) or would any sealant just stop the anode working properly?

Thanks!

Sealant may prevent it working properly? I am not familiar with that particular anode but if it relies on the thread to complete the "Electrical" circuit sealant may not be your best bet. Have you thought of an "O" ring? This would allow contact through the thread, conversely, if the end cap of the anode is in contact with the casing, sealant on the thread may be OK? Sorry, just considerations and maybe what ifs!
Edit:- had a look at VP 2001 anodes but cannot get a definitive from several listed. (picture would help!) Anyway easy to check if you have continuity with whatever solution you use by use of a multimeter on Ohms setting should be somewhere around zero ohms.

 

[scottie]

Is there an alternative tapping that it can fit ?

 

[down...2 greens]

Thanks everyone. Alex, I'm not quite sure whether the 'electrical' connection happens via the threads, face plate or a bit of both - that's why I've been reluctant to try anything on it so far. The multimeter is a good idea though, I hadn't thought of that (or of using an o ring).

Scottie, do you mean is there somewhere else to screw in the anode, or are you suggesting re-tapping the existing hole? Penfold's Hylomar idea is the type of thing I had been wondering about using... I'll look again at the setup and see if that might work.

 

[penfold]

The threads do provide an electrical connection between the engine and the anode, it's a tapered thread so there will always be a satisfactory connection provided you snug it up tight, even with hylomar or whatever.

 

[down...2 greens]

Actually it looks like the connection to the engine block is all via the threads of the brass holder (and there are a few of them) - so maybe even just a light smear of silicone on the first thread or two of the holder?

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Thanks everyone. Alex, I'm not quite sure whether the 'electrical' connection happens via the threads, face plate or a bit of both - that's why I've been reluctant to try anything on it so far. The multimeter is a good idea though, I hadn't thought of that (or of using an o ring).

Scottie, do you mean is there somewhere else to screw in the anode, or are you suggesting re-tapping the existing hole? Penfold's Hylomar idea is the type of thing I had been wondering about using... I'll look again at the setup and see if that might work.

Unfortunately an "O" ring won't be any use on the set up in the picture in your last post. Possibly a little bit of sealant or even PTFE tape on the last couple of outside threads. I assume you have a new brass holder, could be the threads in the unit are worn.

 

[Ammonite]

Unfortunately an "O" ring won't be any use on the set up in the picture in your last post. Possibly a little bit of sealant or even PTFE tape on the last couple of outside threads. I assume you have a new brass holder, could be the threads in the unit are worn.

+1 for PTFE on the last couple of threads. Worked for me on my old Beta which had a similar setup.

 

[scottie]

Thanks everyone. Alex, I'm not quite sure whether the 'electrical' connection happens via the threads, face plate or a bit of both - that's why I've been reluctant to try anything on it so far. The multimeter is a good idea though, I hadn't thought of that (or of using an o ring).

Scottie, do you mean is there somewhere else to screw in the anode, or are you suggesting re-tapping the existing hole? Penfold's Hylomar idea is the type of thing I had been wondering about using... I'll look again at the setup and see if that might work.

Some of the 2000 series have a plugged connection for hot water
the suggestion of new plug along with running a tap into existing thread makes sense as it may have been cross threaded at some time

 

[down...2 greens]

Thanks again everybody. I think I'll start with the PTFE and see how it goes from there!

 

[VicS]

Thanks again everybody. I think I'll start with the PTFE and see how it goes from there!

If you use tape make sure you have good electrical contact between the anode holder and the engine