Empty diesel tank using a drill pump?

The system consists of Racor FG500 ( chinese clone) with 10micron filter, universal fuel pump HEP-02A, inline strainer and some hoses. The fuel pump is self priming.
Greetings
Klaus
 
Polishing kit in #13 looks excellent but the OP is looking to clear muck not polish fuel.

Unless filtered, Facit type pumps block quite quickly whereas drill types don't. Where crud is present, rather than try to filter, I've found it best to pump into clear 5L water containers, let it settle, decant the good stuff then dump the sediment.
 
Hook the shower pump up to a wandering hose with a hose lock connector & another on the outlet side to discharge into collection receptacle. The wandering hose will come in handy for later life, hoovering up excess water in the bilges etc under the engine & places difficult to reach. Mine is about 10 ft long
However my Draper pump worked Ok - One has to ensure that it is rotating the correct direction. I used a battery drill & 2 batteries. To start it off I made sure that there was some fuel in the intake pipe to lubricate the pump vanes. ( I immersed the pump in the fuel for a short burst & had a short intake pipe)This helps the vacuum & prevents burn out of the vanes before any fuel starts to suck up.
 
Graham376 said:
Polishing kit in #13 looks excellent but the OP is looking to clear muck not polish fuel.

Unless filtered, Facit type pumps block quite quickly whereas drill types don't. Where crud is present, rather than try to filter, I've found it best to pump into clear 5L water containers, let it settle, decant the good stuff then dump the sediment.
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You are right but the strainer catches the gunk and is easily replaced and the filter is in the inlet and in front of the pump.
 
Slowboat35 said:
No need whatsoever for complicated squeezable (and thus splittable) barrel pumps.

This the simplest syphon pump there is, a tube and a captive ball. Nothing at all to go wrong. Nothing to break.

The Germans call it a Vanky-pump - I'm sure you can see why. Where a syphon needs to be started there is nothing simpler, better or more reliable.

Hyfive Self Priming Jiggle Syphon Hose Oil Drum Barrel Tank Siphon Pump Fuel Petrol Diesel Transfer : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
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But what happens if the fuel level in the container when full is reasonably lower the bottom of the tank one is trying to empty? Bearing in mind that the majority of tanks are fairly low in the bilge i would ask if one considers that it makes the syphon principle pretty useless . Or am I wrong?
 
You're not wrong. In the boat, afloat, is a problem. I dropped 400lts in thebilge and used the engine driven bilge pump to put it in 200lt drums on deck, hoisted them off at the end of the day and left them to settle for a long, long time....bilge water 'n 'at. Syphoned into smaller cans ashore, through nylons etc, got most of it back.
I made a ginormous jiggle syphon, 1 in dia hose, stopcock on outlet end, bronze foot valve, £10. 200 lt drum in a very few minutes.
But if you emptying a boat tank just feed the fuel line out of the nearest seacock, assuming on the hard.
 
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