Eberspacher problem

Kelpie

Kelpie

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Heater was running fine all through yesterday. Turned the thermostat down in the evening and it seemed to just cut out, which I thought was a bit odd as normally it would go through a much longer cool down cycle. Anyway, switched it to 'off' and went to bed.

This morning, heater will start blowing for about two seconds and then stops. Doesn't run long enough to start the fuel pump clicking (normally that would take longer to kick in anyway). Runs fine, but cold obviously, in vent mode.

It's an antiquated model of Eber with no diagnostics, and the only controls are the three way heat/vent /off plus the thermostat. Fuel level is fine, tests conducted with engine running and plenty of volts.

Any thoughts?

Yours, Frozen of Stornoway.
 
What model?

First thing to test is probably the power, did batt run down overnight? Check voltage at heater during startup —too low will cause pre-ignition shutdown? And the test must be at the heater, not the batts as a bad fuse connection, corroded termination, etc. can create problems.

If it’s not that, the ecu may have detected some other prob, but next steps depend on model.
 
Last edited:
dom said:
What model?

First thing to test is probably the power, did batt run down overnight? Check voltage at heater during startup —too low will cause pre-ignition shutdown?

If it’s not that, the ecu may have detected some other prob, but next steps depend on model.
Click to expand...

Yes to the above, lets find out which model.
Clutching at straws, what is the thermostat? if it is a (rare) failure there then it can be simply bypassed.
 
There is good chance this is the thermostatic cut off on the unit itself. The reset button is on the top of the heating unit itself and you just need to press it down to reset. I also have an old Eberspacher and this a problem I have encountered myself.
 
Kelpie said:
It's an antiquated model of Eber with no diagnostics, and the only controls are the three way heat/vent /off plus the thermostat. Fuel level is fine, tests conducted with engine running and plenty of volts.
Click to expand...

You need to find which model it is; if you look at the downloads section of the excellent Butler Technik website (https://www.butlertechnik.com/technical_library/air-heaters-d4) you should be able to find your model. If you then download the workshop manual, there should be a troubleshooting section which will help you diagnose the fault.

From what you've said, it could well be a problem with the safety thermal cutout.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't know the model number, there's nothing on the unit itself. It's been painted grey at some point. The controller is so old that the phone number printed on it doesn't have a '1' in it. The box of tricks (relays? ) says ' made in W Germany'!

I can't find a reset button on the top, there are two rubbery covers, I presume one is for the glow plug.

Have managed to borrow a heater to run off shore power so immediate crisis averted.

Yours, Chilly of Stornoway
 
Kelpie said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't know the model number, there's nothing on the unit itself. It's been painted grey at some point. The controller is so old that the phone number printed on it doesn't have a '1' in it. The box of tricks (relays? ) says ' made in W Germany'!

I can't find a reset button on the top, there are two rubbery covers, I presume one is for the glow plug.
Click to expand...

Look at the Butler Technik link I gave you; your heater may be the D3L. If there's a circular rubber plug on the centre line of the heater, about 25mm diameter, this lifts out to give access to the safety thermal cutout switch. If the switch has tripped, it needs to be pressed downwards to reset it.
 
pvb said:
Look at the Butler Technik link I gave you; your heater may be the D3L. If there's a circular rubber plug on the centre line of the heater, about 25mm diameter, this lifts out to give access to the safety thermal cutout switch. If the switch has tripped, it needs to be pressed downwards to reset it.
Click to expand...

+1 Should it fail, considering the age of the unit, I'd suggest not to waste time fiddling with it and swap it straight for one of the Chink unit available on E-Bay. You can get them cheaper than any significant replacement part for Eber and the switch-over is physically easier than overhauling the original. They work great - based on a personal experience and a lot of feedback on this forum and elsewhere.
 
The concensus on this forum seems to be falling on the side of the Planar, Russian-made heaters as they seem to be built to a better standard, have better controls than the Chinese copies and will slot in effortlessly on place of an Eber. They also have marine quality ancillaries, if one is installing from scratch.
No connection, just passing on to the OP some knowledge gleaned on here.
 
Found the reset button. This allowed me to try starting up the heater again, which got as far as pumping fuel for a couple of minutes, then cut out as before.

I've more or less run out of time to carry on looking at it now, so next stop is to spend a hundred quid on a Chinaspacher and fit it when I next visit the boat, which will probably be in the new year.

I already have a Chinaspacher in my other boat and am very happy with it- subject to replacing the ancilliaries with marine grade components of course.
 
Good you found the reset button. You may have some dirt in the fuel line / pump which replacing the heater won't fix. I'd have a go at pressing the reset button again and see if it will re-fire. These are very simple units and not a lot can actually go wrong with them. Altho' the Le Tonkinoise website seems like an unlikely source it is very useful and informative.
 
If as you allude to you are in Stornoway, I suggest speaking to the guys in the Fisherman’s CoOp or at the harbour office for advice on who might be able to help. I have no idea if there is an Eber engineer on the island, but Scott’s Garage do a lot of the lorry maintenance in Stornoway so might be able to help? I have no connection with any of those companies.
 
boomerangben said:
If as you allude to you are in Stornoway, I suggest speaking to the guys in the Fisherman’s CoOp or at the harbour office for advice on who might be able to help. I have no idea if there is an Eber engineer on the island, but Scott’s Garage do a lot of the lorry maintenance in Stornoway so might be able to help? I have no connection with any of those companies.
Click to expand...

Or you could try Macmillan Engineering at Goat Island 01851 704411.
 
pcatterall said:
Yes to the above, lets find out which model.
Clutching at straws, what is the thermostat? if it is a (rare) failure there then it can be simply bypassed.
Click to expand...

As I have a similar fault can you be more specific regarding overriding the controller. How precisely? ps mine is a D4 with simple on off switch with a rotary temperature rheostat below,
 
Thanks for the suggestions. The boat is in Stornoway, unfortunately I no longer am, and will likely not visit again until the new year.
I already have a Chinese heater in my other boat, and I will probably just unbolt that and take it with me to ensure that I can get something up and running for my next visit.
 
Kelpie said:
Heater was running fine all through yesterday. Turned the thermostat down in the evening and it seemed to just cut out, which I thought was a bit odd as normally it would go through a much longer cool down cycle. Anyway, switched it to 'off' and went to bed.

This morning, heater will start blowing for about two seconds and then stops. Doesn't run long enough to start the fuel pump clicking (normally that would take longer to kick in anyway). Runs fine, but cold obviously, in vent mode.

It's an antiquated model of Eber with no diagnostics, and the only controls are the three way heat/vent /off plus the thermostat. Fuel level is fine, tests conducted with engine running and plenty of volts.

Any thoughts?

Yours, Frozen of Stornoway.
Click to expand...
Has it blown one of the two fuses?
 
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