Ebersbacher d4 problems... Again

[Emerald Hunter]

My Ebersbacher stopped working about a few months back, I removed it and gave it a much needed service, stripped her down and cleaned out the combustion chamber and replaced all gaskets.
Also installed bit of insulation on the hot air output.
Now installed again she fires up perfectly, hot air to all vents, then after 10-20min stops and goes into shutdown cycle.

Voltage measured at the unit is good. Fuel is sufficient.. Any ideas?.. I'm running out.?

 

[alexincornwall]

Have you looked at the error code on the display? This will give you a lot of info. If it’s reading low voltage, is the unit wired directly to the batteries?

I ask because we had very similar problems with our D4 last year and there was a significant voltage drop whilst running, even with the engine on which put it into shut down. The unit wasn’t wired directly to the battery and even though they were newish, voltage was being lost somewhere along the way...

We also replaced the glow pin but I don’t think that’ll be your issue as you’re getting 20 minutes out of it.

 

[david_bagshaw]

could be anything, but

try running it without outlet connected, so long as inlet is capable of getting cold air
2 ebbersplutters have great trouble with fuel air leaks or the little fuel filter in the pump being blocked.

other wise ... over to others

 

[Emerald Hunter]

Have you looked at the error code on the display? This will give you a lot of info. If it’s reading low voltage, is the unit wired directly to the batteries?

I ask because we had very similar problems with our D4 last year and there was a significant voltage drop whilst running, even with the engine on which put it into shut down. The unit wasn’t wired directly to the battery and even though they were newish, voltage was being lost somewhere along the way...

We also replaced the glow pin but I don’t think that’ll be your issue as you’re getting 20 minutes out of it.

Thanks
Unfortunately unit is not older and doesn't have a display for codes (just thermostat dial and on/off/cold.
Il see if i can determine where the elec is routed to its certainly a distance away from the batteries.

 

[Emerald Hunter]

could be anything, but

try running it without outlet connected, so long as inlet is capable of getting cold air
2 ebbersplutters have great trouble with fuel air leaks or the little fuel filter in the pump being blocked.

other wise ... over to others

The hot air outlet? Ok il try that tomorrow morning when it's cooler. I recently changed the fuel filter i don't think that's blocked. Thanks

 

[fearmhuir]

Has the unit stopped a few times in succession after a similar running time? If its starting up ok and running for even five minutes it is unlikely to be a power supply issue.
Possibly the overheat device is being tripped? Restriction of some sort on inlet or outlet air which will cause the unit to overheat?

 

[pcatterall]

Has the unit stopped a few times in succession after a similar running time? If its starting up ok and running for even five minutes it is unlikely to be a power supply issue.
Possibly the overheat device is being tripped? Restriction of some sort on inlet or outlet air which will cause the unit to overheat?

As an 'Eberspacher repairer' I would suggest that overheating is suggested. If it fires up and runs for 10 minutes then other common faults are not likely.
As suggested try disconnecting the hot air ducting to eliminate this. But ensure that the hot air being blown out is not returning immediately to the intake ( where the sensor lies!).
If you have recently added insulation to ducting then this could increase the potential to overheat.

 

[Emerald Hunter]

Has the unit stopped a few times in succession after a similar running time? If its starting up ok and running for even five minutes it is unlikely to be a power supply issue.
Possibly the overheat device is being tripped? Restriction of some sort on inlet or outlet air which will cause the unit to overheat?

Hot air is blowing from all the ducts as normal when it is running. I just checked the voltage and it was 11.4ish on the elec loom at the unit. Battery voltage is 12.4 inside while drawing the 8amp start..

 

[pcatterall]

Hot air is blowing from all the ducts as normal when it is running. I just checked the voltage and it was 11.4ish on the elec loom at the unit. Battery voltage is 12.4 inside while drawing the 8amp start..

Well those volts are low at the unit. Surprising that after doing the 'hard bit' and starting it then stops. I suppose you could try again with the engine running?

 

[Emerald Hunter]

Has the unit stopped a few times in succession after a similar running time? If its starting up ok and running for even five minutes it is unlikely to be a power supply issue.
Possibly the overheat device is being tripped? Restriction of some sort on inlet or outlet air which will cause the unit to overheat?

Ran this eve for about 30min with outlet disconnected.
Voltage while running is 12.3.
Unit is installed in rear locker which seems to get quite hot although i havnt had this issue before.
Second start is always less time so I think you're on top something with the overheat sensor.
Air intake is right beside exhaust outlet though by design?

 

[Kai_]

you can most likely install the newer display controller unit and then you could read the error codes,
I recently did this with a D2 that wasn't working. Costs you money for the new display controller but saves time when it tells you exactly what is wrong.

just check the display controller is compatible with your particular model.

 

[fredrussell]

Agree with Kai, a diagnostic 701 timer would be useful here, but I had a look on eBay and they’re £150. You can see why Chinaspacher heaters are so popular, you could pretty much buy two of the 5kw ones for that!

 

[pcatterall]

Ran this eve for about 30min with outlet disconnected.
Voltage while running is 12.3.
Unit is installed in rear locker which seems to get quite hot although i havnt had this issue before.
Second start is always less time so I think you're on top something with the overheat sensor.
Air intake is right beside exhaust outlet though by design?

Sounds better. Yes the COMBUSTION air intake is close to the exhaust by design and should present no problems. Remember that the cabin air outlet and return are also quite close . If the warmed air from the oulet can get back to the inlet then it can send a false signal to the thermostat suggesting that the required temp has been reached. Also if your locker gets hot this may affect the overheat sensor. The section of outlet ducting inside the locker should be well insulated. If there is exhaust pipe in the locker then that could be insulated as well.

 

[Emerald Hunter]

Agree with Kai, a diagnostic 701 timer would be useful here, but I had a look on eBay and they’re £150. You can see why Chinaspacher heaters are so popular, you could pretty much buy two of the 5kw ones for that!

Pricey.. I will see.. The eber is a secondary source of heat as I don't trust them long term. (liveaboard) would be handy though

 

[Emerald Hunter]

Sounds better. Yes the COMBUSTION air intake is close to the exhaust by design and should present no problems. Remember that the cabin air outlet and return are also quite close . If the warmed air from the oulet can get back to the inlet then it can send a false signal to the thermostat suggesting that the required temp has been reached. Also if your locker gets hot this may affect the overheat sensor. The section of outlet ducting inside the locker should be well insulated. If there is exhaust pipe in the locker then that could be insulated as well.

Thanks everyone for the replies. Much help.
I removed the insulation from the outlet I had installed this morning and routed the air intake up away from exhaust ducting(which is insulated)
Ebersbacher has been running for 40min now so I think have found the fix! (overheat sensor being tripped) Ambient temperature is 17deg today so should run happy on the cold days.
No need to start the Dickinson in the morning now ??